T series into zt/ mg6 - Page 10

minimutly · 5th March 2017, 11:18

I thought I'd looked at that and they were the same dia?
On fuelling I hadn't thought too much about it, but would expect I'd need turbo injectors at a minimum, hopefully non return with the pressure reg in the tank, but we'll see.
Will bore the fly tonight and bolt it all together, then work out any welding needed to the adaptor to close it all up.
Thanks,
Huw

Neil1 · 5th March 2017, 11:37

There is a Facebook Group that I recently joined that covers many aspects of upgrading these cars.

It's called MG K series Turbo Owners, https://www.facebook.com/groups/4993...?ref=bookmarks

I found some very knowledgeable people on there.

Just thought it might be of interest to you.

minimutly · 5th March 2017, 22:50

Machined the t16 adapter plate to fit the v6 ring gear, clocked up the v6 fly and bored out the centre to fit the t crank (all in the workshop in my back garden Brian).
The adapter was done on a rotating table on the miller, the flywheel in the Colchester Triumph. Also needed to drill out the mounting bolt holes as 2.2 vtec said...
Any negatives so far? Well I had to overbore the centre hole in order to fit a centering insert - at the correct diameter there just wasn't enough meat left between the cast iron centre and the back casing. To do this I bolted through the whole lot with some 5/16 bolts and nuts - just in case it moved.
Have now removed the flywheel from the lathe so I can make an insert and press it in, will try to get some HT bolts tomorrow.

minimutly · 7th March 2017, 16:23

Couldnt get new ht bolts at my local supplier, so will have to buy some. Started roughing out the steel to make the insert, and fitted the flywheel, adapter, starter and clutch. One question, the starter, bought on ebay, has a (an?) ear cast into the mating face, which looks like it serves no purpose, but the correstponding mating face hasn't been machined to allow for it. Is this an issue?
My first thought is to just grind the ear off, but there must be a reason for it?

EastPete · 8th March 2017, 18:03

Some T-series engine transplant action that I got in involved in this afternoon - only from one 800 to another, not into a 75/ZT. They seem to leak oil well, based on the ones I have seen, but that may not be typical.
Cheers

Pete

2.2-600-vtec · 8th March 2017, 22:22

They do leak oil normally around the corner of the head. I have changed my head gasket to the type with the oil restrictor in the block and not with it as part of the head gasket as I feel that puts pressure on the gasket and create a leak. Not sure if it will make a difference but worth a shot

Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

2.2-600-vtec · 9th March 2017, 05:37

Not sure what make it was to be honest. I did have some bug issues with some ebay bought klinger ones a few years ago so just bought a oem one which may well be a klinger just from a more trusted source.
The later gaskets have the restrictor as part of the gasket at that pressure I do worry. That's why I fitted the earlier metal in block restrictor.

Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

minimutly · 9th March 2017, 08:17

The klinger instructions say you should remove the restrictor, but given the amount of oil flooding the top end of these i reckon you should leave it.
I once had one on my engine dyno, with an issue revving past 6500, i was standing next to it turning the (vauxhall) distributor when it shot a load of hot oil out all over the exhaust - daps required.
When you think about the volume in the oil gallery, it doesn't take long to realise any hard cornering at high revs could starve the bottom end of lube.

minimutly · 10th March 2017, 18:43

I made and pressed in the flywheel insert, not totally succesful, looks to be 1-2 thou slack around the crank. Its allways hard to make a one off to tight tollerances, you never know how much it will crush down. Need to measure it properly before deciding whether to pull it out and make another.
We'll see about checking reluctor notches vs engine position this weekend, but first I need to find the spurce of some horrible grinding noises from the back wheel.

minimutly · 11th March 2017, 10:33

As expected, horrible grinding knocking noise was a rear shoe detaching itself, close inspection of the 40,000 mile pads and discs show they're not good either. New ones coming, a bit dissappointed with the "quallity" of these (mintex IIRC)...
Quick update, yes it was a shoe detached, easy I thouhgt, then found one of the retainers had come out, which was due to the backplate rotting...
For now it has a nut and bolt and some loctite holding it in place - and the factors sent the wrong discs, great.

5th March 2017, 11:37	#92
Neil1 I really should get out more....... MG ZT-T CDTI Auto Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Newton Abbot Posts: 2,624 Thanks: 1,342 Thanked 518 Times in 425 Posts	There is a Facebook Group that I recently joined that covers many aspects of upgrading these cars. It's called MG K series Turbo Owners, https://www.facebook.com/groups/4993...?ref=bookmarks I found some very knowledgeable people on there. Just thought it might be of interest to you. __________________ Rover 75 and MG ZT: The Complete Story

11th March 2017, 10:33	#100
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	As expected, horrible grinding knocking noise was a rear shoe detaching itself, close inspection of the 40,000 mile pads and discs show they're not good either. New ones coming, a bit dissappointed with the "quallity" of these (mintex IIRC)... Quick update, yes it was a shoe detached, easy I thouhgt, then found one of the retainers had come out, which was due to the backplate rotting... For now it has a nut and bolt and some loctite holding it in place - and the factors sent the wrong discs, great. Last edited by minimutly; 11th March 2017 at 16:45..

5th March 2017, 11:18	#91
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	I thought I'd looked at that and they were the same dia? On fuelling I hadn't thought too much about it, but would expect I'd need turbo injectors at a minimum, hopefully non return with the pressure reg in the tank, but we'll see. Will bore the fly tonight and bolt it all together, then work out any welding needed to the adaptor to close it all up. Thanks, Huw

5th March 2017, 22:50	#93
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	Machined the t16 adapter plate to fit the v6 ring gear, clocked up the v6 fly and bored out the centre to fit the t crank (all in the workshop in my back garden Brian). The adapter was done on a rotating table on the miller, the flywheel in the Colchester Triumph. Also needed to drill out the mounting bolt holes as 2.2 vtec said... Any negatives so far? Well I had to overbore the centre hole in order to fit a centering insert - at the correct diameter there just wasn't enough meat left between the cast iron centre and the back casing. To do this I bolted through the whole lot with some 5/16 bolts and nuts - just in case it moved. Have now removed the flywheel from the lathe so I can make an insert and press it in, will try to get some HT bolts tomorrow.

7th March 2017, 16:23	#94
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	Couldnt get new ht bolts at my local supplier, so will have to buy some. Started roughing out the steel to make the insert, and fitted the flywheel, adapter, starter and clutch. One question, the starter, bought on ebay, has a (an?) ear cast into the mating face, which looks like it serves no purpose, but the correstponding mating face hasn't been machined to allow for it. Is this an issue? My first thought is to just grind the ear off, but there must be a reason for it?

8th March 2017, 22:22	#96
2.2-600-vtec Loves to post mg ztt Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Exeter Posts: 328 Thanks: 2 Thanked 37 Times in 35 Posts	They do leak oil normally around the corner of the head. I have changed my head gasket to the type with the oil restrictor in the block and not with it as part of the head gasket as I feel that puts pressure on the gasket and create a leak. Not sure if it will make a difference but worth a shot Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

9th March 2017, 05:37	#97
2.2-600-vtec Loves to post mg ztt Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Exeter Posts: 328 Thanks: 2 Thanked 37 Times in 35 Posts	Not sure what make it was to be honest. I did have some bug issues with some ebay bought klinger ones a few years ago so just bought a oem one which may well be a klinger just from a more trusted source. The later gaskets have the restrictor as part of the gasket at that pressure I do worry. That's why I fitted the earlier metal in block restrictor. Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

9th March 2017, 08:17	#98
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	The klinger instructions say you should remove the restrictor, but given the amount of oil flooding the top end of these i reckon you should leave it. I once had one on my engine dyno, with an issue revving past 6500, i was standing next to it turning the (vauxhall) distributor when it shot a load of hot oil out all over the exhaust - daps required. When you think about the volume in the oil gallery, it doesn't take long to realise any hard cornering at high revs could starve the bottom end of lube.

10th March 2017, 18:43	#99
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	I made and pressed in the flywheel insert, not totally succesful, looks to be 1-2 thou slack around the crank. Its allways hard to make a one off to tight tollerances, you never know how much it will crush down. Need to measure it properly before deciding whether to pull it out and make another. We'll see about checking reluctor notches vs engine position this weekend, but first I need to find the spurce of some horrible grinding noises from the back wheel.