ULTIMATE Headlight restoration information

T16 · 20th February 2017, 22:41

I've been into headlights, and generally studying how to get many many things on the cars back to "OE" Factory finishes.

Regarding our poor cloudy headlights, a 3M sand and restore is only half the battle, as once the clearcoat UV factory finish has been sanded off, you are left with soft plastic underneath, susceptible to all sorts.

With the fact that the Xenons are not freely availaible (properly) new, it makes sense to investigate this further, the right way.

Most headlights these days are sprayed with a hard coated UV protection finish at the factory. Its machine applied, to make it almost perfect. In fact if you have a REALLY good condition headlight you can see this for yourself, as if you study carefully you will see a sort of "orange peel" in the fine reflections on the outside of the lens. No spray finish is 100% smooth, and the OE factory finish is not either.

Video of the manufacturing process:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoBfqvSZN7c

Now, it is this finish which goes milky and yellow on our lights.

How to restore the headlight properly I hear you ask?

Option 1) Do what a lot of forum members (and me) do, and use a kit like the 3M kit at home, gives a great result, removes the horrid old outer layer of protectant, and looks good...but left there is no real protection. Forum members might finish with wax, or other coatings as appropriate.

Option 2) Do as the detailers do, as above, but finish with something like Opti-Lens, or any other "rub on" thin layer headlight UV protector. This is still not as good as OE. and ends up costing a lot of money if you plump for the argued best (Opti-lens, £60)

Option 3) The gold standard. A company called Glasweld, has reproduced (and arguably made better) the OE Hard UV finish, which is sprayed on and cured HARD with UV light, just like at the factory. You can buy the kit to do this yourself, but its about £700 as is meant for detailers and traders.

Now, I was going to buy this kit, and setup doing headlights for forum members for a price to recoup the costs. However, posting things like the fragile lights around is not a great idea.

This lead me onto Glasweld themselves, they actually have a network of techs up and down the UK, who will visit, sort your lights, and apply the hard protective OE type UV cured finish back to the lights, making them like factory.

I have no prices for this just yet, but I am going to investigate, see about club discounts for forum members, and perhaps during the process take lots and lots of pics for you guys if you are interested.

Hope this helps, and perhaps when I've gone through the proper process and found out costs, we can make a sticky about it.

What prompted this was inspection of my "restored" headlights after about 10 months. Many many hairline scratches, and nothing like the brand new finish. A wipe on protectant just isnt good enough.

Perhaps its because of the long (1000miles+ a time) journeys I do in the car that constantly throws rubbish at the restored lenses. Im sure other forum members have restored the lights and been ok for a while.

bikerdude666 · 20th February 2017, 22:45

I'd be interested depending on price, I've used the 3M kit but they're going again so a longer lasting solution would be great!

madeupname · 20th February 2017, 22:45

I'd be interested in this

On the other hand just read the other Glasweld thread and have now changed my mind :-)

T16 · 20th February 2017, 22:46

ROFL, that should teach me to search properly...!!

A member on here went for the Glasweld solution and was disappointed in the extreme.

NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-.

not sure what happened with Kev and the Glasweld guy... A lot of detailers are using the Glasweld kit to good effect....Should cure hard and clear just like the factory applied finish...

Here is an example of what I would be expecting from the UV hardcoat....
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=85992

I will polish them to a mirror, and enquire about getting just the UV hardcoat sprayed on, and see whats what. I will mention Kevs bad experience, and ask why in this instance it was so rubbish. Looks like it was rubbed on by hand.

T16 · 21st February 2017, 14:51

OK folks..

Contacted Glasweld, bunch of utter muppets... Know what they said to me??

We have no-one in Scotland who is trained to do headlights!!

Futher research led me to this:-

http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=695&L=1

Proper 2k UV hardcoat protection, in a kit, just like the factory.

Ill do a guide and let everyone know how I get on with a test headlight first.

Rev Jules · 21st February 2017, 16:16

With reference to this thread I have one of these franchises very near to me, have contacted them asking for a price, I dont want them to ring me?

Rev

vacuman · 21st February 2017, 16:33

Think i'll use some quality cling film on mine and change it every month or so

More seriously, I've noticed what looks like some condensation on the inside. Is that common and, if so, is there an easy fix? Car has been little used since last Summer and probably not at night so perhaps just need the lights on for a while to 'burn off' the moisture????

madeupname · 21st February 2017, 16:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by vacuman

Think i'll use some quality cling film on mine and change it every month or so

More seriously, I've noticed what looks like some condensation on the inside. Is that common and, if so, is there an easy fix? Car has been little used since last Summer and probably not at night so perhaps just need the lights on for a while to 'burn off' the moisture????

That should work, when I got mine the headlights were frosty white. But after driving around with the headlights on for a couple of hours on a dull day it cleared. They're not perfect, but much better till I can get them polished up.

T16 · 21st February 2017, 18:01

Leave the rubber covers off, go for a drive in the night, get the engine bay nice and warm, and use full beam a lot.

It will dry them out a treat.

billcoleman · 22nd February 2017, 21:40

A few months ago I rubbed my xenon's back because the finish was starting to peel. There was not much yellowing. Then I resprayed with a 2-pack clear coat. I have been very happy with the finish.

One other solution that I was considering was to apply a layer of helicopter tape. I have seen this advertised as being applied to new cars before.

20th February 2017, 22:41	#1
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	ULTIMATE Headlight restoration information I've been into headlights, and generally studying how to get many many things on the cars back to "OE" Factory finishes. Regarding our poor cloudy headlights, a 3M sand and restore is only half the battle, as once the clearcoat UV factory finish has been sanded off, you are left with soft plastic underneath, susceptible to all sorts. With the fact that the Xenons are not freely availaible (properly) new, it makes sense to investigate this further, the right way. Most headlights these days are sprayed with a hard coated UV protection finish at the factory. Its machine applied, to make it almost perfect. In fact if you have a REALLY good condition headlight you can see this for yourself, as if you study carefully you will see a sort of "orange peel" in the fine reflections on the outside of the lens. No spray finish is 100% smooth, and the OE factory finish is not either. Video of the manufacturing process:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoBfqvSZN7c Now, it is this finish which goes milky and yellow on our lights. How to restore the headlight properly I hear you ask? Option 1) Do what a lot of forum members (and me) do, and use a kit like the 3M kit at home, gives a great result, removes the horrid old outer layer of protectant, and looks good...but left there is no real protection. Forum members might finish with wax, or other coatings as appropriate. Option 2) Do as the detailers do, as above, but finish with something like Opti-Lens, or any other "rub on" thin layer headlight UV protector. This is still not as good as OE. and ends up costing a lot of money if you plump for the argued best (Opti-lens, £60) Option 3) The gold standard. A company called Glasweld, has reproduced (and arguably made better) the OE Hard UV finish, which is sprayed on and cured HARD with UV light, just like at the factory. You can buy the kit to do this yourself, but its about £700 as is meant for detailers and traders. Now, I was going to buy this kit, and setup doing headlights for forum members for a price to recoup the costs. However, posting things like the fragile lights around is not a great idea. This lead me onto Glasweld themselves, they actually have a network of techs up and down the UK, who will visit, sort your lights, and apply the hard protective OE type UV cured finish back to the lights, making them like factory. I have no prices for this just yet, but I am going to investigate, see about club discounts for forum members, and perhaps during the process take lots and lots of pics for you guys if you are interested. Hope this helps, and perhaps when I've gone through the proper process and found out costs, we can make a sticky about it. What prompted this was inspection of my "restored" headlights after about 10 months. Many many hairline scratches, and nothing like the brand new finish. A wipe on protectant just isnt good enough. Perhaps its because of the long (1000miles+ a time) journeys I do in the car that constantly throws rubbish at the restored lenses. Im sure other forum members have restored the lights and been ok for a while.

20th February 2017, 22:45	#3
madeupname Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo) Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1,531 Thanks: 875 Thanked 335 Times in 289 Posts	I'd be interested in this On the other hand just read the other Glasweld thread and have now changed my mind :-) Last edited by madeupname; 20th February 2017 at 22:54..

20th February 2017, 22:46	#4
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	ROFL, that should teach me to search properly...!! A member on here went for the Glasweld solution and was disappointed in the extreme. NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-. not sure what happened with Kev and the Glasweld guy... A lot of detailers are using the Glasweld kit to good effect....Should cure hard and clear just like the factory applied finish... Here is an example of what I would be expecting from the UV hardcoat.... http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=85992 I will polish them to a mirror, and enquire about getting just the UV hardcoat sprayed on, and see whats what. I will mention Kevs bad experience, and ask why in this instance it was so rubbish. Looks like it was rubbed on by hand. Last edited by T16; 20th February 2017 at 23:24..

22nd February 2017, 21:40	#10
billcoleman Gets stuck in MGZT-T Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 578 Thanks: 7 Thanked 27 Times in 24 Posts	A few months ago I rubbed my xenon's back because the finish was starting to peel. There was not much yellowing. Then I resprayed with a 2-pack clear coat. I have been very happy with the finish. One other solution that I was considering was to apply a layer of helicopter tape. I have seen this advertised as being applied to new cars before. Last edited by Dragrad; 22nd February 2017 at 23:31.. Reason: Consecutive posts, please use the edit or multi-quote options ;-)

20th February 2017, 22:45	#2
bikerdude666 Posted a thing or two Jaguar Xe diseasal Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Little Stanion, Corby Posts: 1,922 Thanks: 363 Thanked 390 Times in 241 Posts	I'd be interested depending on price, I've used the 3M kit but they're going again so a longer lasting solution would be great!

21st February 2017, 14:51	#5
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	OK folks.. Contacted Glasweld, bunch of utter muppets... Know what they said to me?? We have no-one in Scotland who is trained to do headlights!! Futher research led me to this:- http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=695&L=1 Proper 2k UV hardcoat protection, in a kit, just like the factory. Ill do a guide and let everyone know how I get on with a test headlight first.

21st February 2017, 16:16	#6
Rev Jules This is my second home Rover 75 Tourer+ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Radcliffe on Trent Posts: 10,711 Thanks: 7,308 Thanked 3,929 Times in 2,051 Posts	With reference to this thread I have one of these franchises very near to me, have contacted them asking for a price, I dont want them to ring me? Rev

21st February 2017, 16:33	#7
vacuman Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: St Albans Posts: 855 Thanks: 69 Thanked 236 Times in 172 Posts	Think i'll use some quality cling film on mine and change it every month or so More seriously, I've noticed what looks like some condensation on the inside. Is that common and, if so, is there an easy fix? Car has been little used since last Summer and probably not at night so perhaps just need the lights on for a while to 'burn off' the moisture????

21st February 2017, 18:01	#9
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	Leave the rubber covers off, go for a drive in the night, get the engine bay nice and warm, and use full beam a lot. It will dry them out a treat.