Timing 1.8 k series

[mininuts]

Just changing timing belt, tensioner and water pump on my MGF, first time I've ever attempted a timing belt so, please excuse if this is a stupid question

I followed the manual and a couple of YouTube vids and set the crank pulley mark to 'safe' position but, the two cam pulleys seem to be one tooth out. Car ran perfectly before so, I had no reason to think anything was amiss.

My question is, with the belt removed and the crank in 'safe' position, can I turn each cam pulley slightly, (half a tooth each), to get the timing marks in line without harming anything. Then I could fit the locking tool to keep them there.

Could there be a reason why they were a tooth out?

Many thanks.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by mininuts

Just changing timing belt, tensioner and water pump on my MGF, first time I've ever attempted a timing belt so, please excuse if this is a stupid question

I followed the manual and a couple of YouTube vids and set the crank pulley mark to 'safe' position but, the two cam pulleys seem to be one tooth out. Car ran perfectly before so, I had no reason to think anything was amiss.

My question is, with the belt removed and the crank in 'safe' position, can I turn each cam pulley slightly, (half a tooth each), to get the timing marks in line without harming anything. Then I could fit the locking tool to keep them there.

Could there be a reason why they were a tooth out?

Many thanks.

When you say the crank was in the safe position Paul, was that aligned using the notch on the crank pulley and the lower timing cover, or did you remove the crank pulley and align the timing gear so the two dimples straddled the line cast onto the oil pump?

I always use the latter method, then if the timing marks don't line up on the camshaft gear, the belt can be safely removed, the cam gear aligned and locked, then refit the belt

Best of luck, I know things are a little cramped when working on the "F"

Brian

[mininuts]

Yes Brian, I removed the pulley and used the dimples as you say although, are the marks on the pulley and lower belt cover not in the same position?

Thanks for the reply, it's put my mind at rest. I was too scared to move the cam pulleys without knowing for sure if that was the right thing to do

And yes, access is a little cramped

Do you know why the cam timing marks would be a notch out though? Was in two minds to just leave it as is seeing as the car was running fine. I'm assuming that one tooth out doesn't have too much noticeable affect on the running of the car.

Thanks again Brian.

[kaiser]

The engine can easily be one tooth out.
One dimple on each side of the mark at the bottom, and the two marks should line up perfectly on the sprockets. If they don't, turn the sprockets as required.

It could well have been misaligned, but believe me, you will feel the difference.
You will not be in doubt when it is right!

Don't forget to stretch the belt with the tensioner, before you tighten it.

[Mike Noc]

Paul you can always safely check for valve clearance to the pistons by rotating the engine two revolutions by hand with the spark plugs removed.

[mininuts]

Originally Posted by kaiser

The engine can easily be one tooth out.
One dimple on each side of the mark at the bottom, and the two marks should line up perfectly on the sprockets. If they don't, turn the sprockets as required.

It could well have been misaligned, but believe me, you will feel the difference.
You will not be in doubt when it is right!

Don't forget to stretch the belt with the tensioner, before you tighten it.

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Paul you can always safely check for valve clearance to the pistons by rotating the engine two revolutions by hand with the spark plugs removed.

Thanks folks, all points noted

[minimutly]

Two points I'd make here:
I allways pull the plugs and use a rod down the plug holes to check 90 degrees btdc - can't be wrong.
If the head has been skimmed the marks could be quite a way off lining up, they are not guaranteed to be in perfect alignment.

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by minimutly

Two points I'd make here:
I allways pull the plugs and use a rod down the plug holes to check 90 degrees btdc - can't be wrong.
If the head has been skimmed the marks could be quite a way off lining up, they are not guaranteed to be in perfect alignment.

No, they would not be quite a way off lining up!
This is plain wrong!
Even 1 mm taken off the head would hardly make any difference.
The bottom mark would not be affected at all, so no reason to use sticks at all, unless you doubt the factory mark.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by kaiser

No, they would not be quite a way off lining up!
This is plain wrong!
Even 1 mm taken off the head would hardly make any difference.
The bottom mark would not be affected at all, so no reason to use sticks at all, unless you doubt the factory mark.

And apart from anything else, the "safe position" is not 90 BTDC, if you line up the bottom mark correctly, the top ones will too

Unlike this MGF......picture taken today



I especially like the attention to detail by writing on the pulleys in tippex, even though they are identical

There appears to be no valve/piston contact, however once I've reset the timing, I'll do a compression test on it

Brian

[mininuts]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

And apart from anything else, the "safe position" is not 90 BTDC, if you line up the bottom mark correctly, the top ones will too

Unlike this MGF......picture taken today



I especially like the attention to detail by writing on the pulleys in tippex, even though they are identical

There appears to be no valve/piston contact, however once I've reset the timing, I'll do a compression test on it

Brian

Makes mine look spot on Brian Was that running ok or not?
Is that engine still in the car? Must have an access panel in the rear wing if it is