How To Fit A Tazu Clutch Master Cylinder

[ricardo65]

Great write up rich and pictures to match my only worry with the tazu master cylinder is that its not supplied with the appropriate pipe if they were to offer or even supply the pipe I would definitely consider buying one ,hopefully were yours goes through the bulkhead you won't experience any problems keep us updated please

[rich17865]

Originally Posted by ricardo65

Great write up rich and pictures to match my only worry with the tazu master cylinder is that its not supplied with the appropriate pipe if they were to offer or even supply the pipe I would definitely consider buying one ,hopefully were yours goes through the bulkhead you won't experience any problems keep us updated please

I have posted a link to this thread in the TAZU forum shop, I am sure they will have a read, and maybe post something up.

I am sure people will gladly pay a bit extra to get a flexi hose that fits correctly supplied with the new master cylinder.

[Dave-M]

Originally Posted by ricardo65

Great write up rich and pictures to match my only worry with the tazu master cylinder is that its not supplied with the appropriate pipe if they were to offer or even supply the pipe I would definitely consider buying one ,hopefully were yours goes through the bulkhead you won't experience any problems keep us updated please

The kit they do for the right hand drive cars does come with the correct length of copper brake pipe - I fitted one recently.

After a bit of head scratching I decided to connect it to the master first, pushed it through the bulkhead, then gradually pulled the pipework along to the slave. It's awkward but do-able (on the diesel).

Once the master cylinder was getting close to the bulkhead it was clear that the pipework would need a few bends putting in it - the master was facing in completely the wrong direction, and nowhere near the mounting braket. So, as close to the union as possible, I just kept gradually bending the pipe until the master was fairly close to the mounting bracket. For the last bit I applied gentle pressure to the cylinder (the pipework was hard up against the bulkhead at this point) until everything lined up. There's very little room at the end of the master cylinder, and the bend needs to be REALLY tight! I was concerned about kinking the pipe, but it's all working fine.

I considered a flexi too - mainly to make it easier to route round the back of the engine. But looking at the photos it seems that the ease you gain in the engine bay you lose in that awkward bit inside the car.


Rich - Perhaps a banjo fitting would be better



This would put the bend closer to the master cylinder and give the sideways kink that's needed to get the pipework closer to the hole. You'd also be able to rotate the fitting (to move the pipe up or down) which would help to get eveything lined up a bit better too.

[rich17865]

Originally Posted by Dave-M

Rich - Perhaps a banjo fitting would be better



This would put the bend closer to the master cylinder and give the sideways kink that's needed to get the pipework closer to the hole. You'd also be able to rotate the fitting (to move the pipe up or down) which would help to get eveything lined up a bit better too.

Yes perhaps a banjo fitting would be better than an angled one. I will bear that in mind if I need to order another.

Were you not concerned about the copper fracturing with the engine vibration?

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by rich17865

Yes perhaps a banjo fitting would be better than an angled one. I will bear that in mind if I need to order another.

Were you not concerned about the copper fracturing with the engine vibration?

Is it not possible to get the Tazu with a short stub of steel pipe just long enough to go through in to the engine bay, with a union on the end so you can connect it up with a flexi after the master is all bolted in position?

[MG Tom]

Originally Posted by David Lawrence

Is it not possible to get the Tazu with a short stub of steel pipe just long enough to go through in to the engine bay, with a union on the end so you can connect it up with a flexi after the master is all bolted in position?

That sounds very sensible indeed.

[rich17865]

I have just ordered another hose, this time with the following specification.....

900mm M10x1.0 straight M10 Banjo straight

I should be able to fit this next weekend all being well, I will post the results.

[Dave-M]

Originally Posted by rich17865

Were you not concerned about the copper fracturing with the engine vibration?

My thinking is that the original plastic pipe is fairly rigid so, hopefully, there shouldn't be too much stress placed on the copper. I've clipped it at a couple of points behind the engine, but left the last 10" or so fairly lose and gently curving to avoid creating any stress points. I'm also hoping that the few inches of plastic pipe that go into the bellhousing will help soak up some of the vibration too.

Only time will tell, but many years ago I had a Dolomite Sprint with a horrid clutch, because the plastic pipe was swelling up as it got warm. Replacements weren't available so it got replaced with copper - with a couple of coils in it to soak up engine movements - and it was still fine when I sold it about 5 years later.

[Jules]

Ah Dolomite Sprint what a great car !!
I had 2 over 10 years straigh after passing my test at 17, they were the days.

The 2nd Sprint had a factory fitted LSD axle and transformed the car........no more tail slides in the wet........they all should have had them with all that 16V BHP !

Back on topic
Rich will you give us a long term report on these cylinders as I've been wondering about stocking them.
How does the pedal feel now BTW?

Jules

[T-Cut]

Hmm, it's a bit of a faff considering Tazu market the kit as a 75/ZT specific part. Wonder why they didn't put the cylinder outlet union at the same angle as the OEM unit? There's a Tazu rep on this forum so hopefully he'll pass all this on to the designer. They really ought to consider doing an alloy slave as well.

TC