My ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) flush & fluid change - how to

[murphyv310]

Hi.
I did the flush and change on MFL last year. I found the instructions clear and precise, I had no trouble at all and was rewarded with nice smooth gear changes, well worth the hour it took.

[Organiser]

It's looking very much like I will be needing to do this job this week after a problem this weekend.

Tom.

[Atcchus]

Originally Posted by kael

My 2002 CDT has the latest type fluid cooler (which cools on the water circuit).
The input pipe is marked X and output pipe is marked with W on that cooler.
So you need to release pipe W on the cooler (the one on the left side of the cooler, shown right on the picture here, and that is going to the lower fixing at the Jatco box.)

May be a silly question. How do you unplug/ remove the hose from the cooler ?

[first-things-first]

From the great pictures on the first page of this thread :

Originally Posted by beinet1

...
55. Now, locate the two lines between the gearbox and oil cooler. Remove the lowermost hose from the oil cooler by pushing the black collar on the inner end of the oil cooler tube into the connector to release the connector`s retainer tabs.

My emphasis above. There is a black plastic ring / collar to the left of the hose (where it meets the cooler). You slide it to the right. As it does this the retaining tabs are opened and you slide the connector off.

For the later cooler the same push fit connector is used, but the pipe is vertical, so you slide the collar upwards to release the tabs.

You will probably find it is quite stiff to move, due to corrosion of the alloy stud the host connects to, after all these years. Mine needed a little gentle clean up and a little WD40 (wipe off excess) to help lubricate. May even need a plastic tool or something equally gentle to help get it moving.

[Atcchus]

Originally Posted by kael

My 2002 CDT has the latest type fluid cooler (which cools on the water circuit).
The input pipe is marked X and output pipe is marked with W on that cooler.
So you need to release pipe W on the cooler (the one on the left side of the cooler, shown right on the picture here, and that is going to the lower fixing at the Jatco box.)

Originally Posted by first-things-first

From the great pictures on the first page of this thread :



My emphasis above. There is a black plastic ring / collar to the left of the hose (where it meets the cooler). You slide it to the right. As it does this the retaining tabs are opened and you slide the connector off.

For the later cooler the same push fit connector is used, but the pipe is vertical, so you slide the collar upwards to release the tabs.

You will probably find it is quite stiff to move, due to corrosion of the alloy stud the host connects to, after all these years. Mine needed a little gentle clean up and a little WD40 (wipe off excess) to help lubricate. May even need a plastic tool or something equally gentle to help get it moving.

Thanks , Mine have later type with alloy bit . Will give a try tomorrow

[Jazzy Joe]

Thank you Simondi, just what I required, so I can print it and give it to the mechanic.
Joe

[StewartIngram]

Today I've done the full ATF change as detailed above, thanks for the info. Car has only done 220k and had one part change about 3 years ago so I think it was time! It was suffering from a bad thump between gears on occasions, and sometimes a slip before engaging top. I haven't been too far since changing the fluid, but overall it does seem better. If need be I'll attack the solenoids (have a full set spare) and hydramount.
One thing though, I spent ages trying to get the push-on connector free from the oil cooler, without success. Nearly broke it in the process so gave up there. I traced the hose back up to a large union (like a brake pipe connector). A 19mm spanner here soon got it off, and the hose of course was easy to direct into my bowl on the floor. No need for a garden hose!

Stewart

[diesel tony]

When I bought my cdti auto tourer the gear change was sharp,clunky and when cold the car was barely moving but once warm would work better,so,I followed these instructions and wow what a difference!.On test drive the car was warm but I could instantly feel the difference,Today was a frosty start this is when it would be at its worst,not anymore, no slipping no clunking,nice smooth responsive gear changes,I can't Thankyou enough for this step by step guide,although Im pretty good with a box of spanners I wouldn't normally mess with slush boxes.
Please don't worry about trying this out,it's easy and effective
Tony

[Andyc02]

Thanks Einar,
I have done a auto transmission flush thanks to beinets how to using 8 litres of ravenol jf506E £77 for x2 4 litres inc postage from Germany only 3 days to get here cheaper than anywhere in uk for ravenol.

This how to was easy to follow Very clear & precise and excellent pictures
Im sure many on this forum have used this






And I intend on Using this guide again for the New Ski Blue Auto Diesel
I am purchasing next week.

Ive just checked Ravenol UK and you can now purchase 8 Litres posted for £77.87 with postage but Only in 1L bottles Or 20 l for £169

[Caskin]

Originally Posted by beinet1

Hi all,

I have just done my second ATF flush & fluid change after a cracked reverse piston repair and decided to take a few pictures and write this how to. As many of us know, is that only 50-60% of the ATF fluid will be replaced during fluid change according to the procedure. This how to shows how to replace nearly all the 8 liters in the system.

1: Jack up the left hand front wheel and secure the car on axle stands



2: Remove the engine undershield and locate the gearbox drain plug. Its the large hex plug at the gearbox underside.



3. Place a large pan under the gearbox, remove the drain plug and let all the fluid drain out. Measure the amount drained from the box for later reference. It shall be something like 3-4 liters.
Remember to use nitirle or latex gloves to avoid skin contact with the ATF fluid.



4. Inspect and clean the magnet in the drain plug. If you can find swarf here, it migth indicate gaerbox problems. Put drain plug back into place.



55. Now, locate the two lines between the gearbox and oil cooler. Remove the lowermost hose from the oil cooler by pushing the black collar on the inner end of the oil cooler tube into the connector to release the connector`s retainer tabs.



6. Put a hose on the stud on the oil cooler and put the other end into a container. Preferably one where you can measure the amount of fluid pumped out.



7. Remove the air filter box and locate the filler plug on the top of the gearbox. Remove filler plug by pulling it out and put a clean funnel in the filler opening. Add 4 liters of fresh ATF fluid to the gearbox.



8. Here comes the trick. Get an assistant to start the engine and let it idle in Park. The gearbox will now pump out the oil in the converter and oil cooler into the container. The fresh oil in the box will displace out the old oil. Watch the level into the container and stop the engine when 3,5-4 liters are pumped out. You will only need 10-15 seconds running of the engine to do this.



9. Remove the hose and container, put the hose from the gearbox back onto the oil cooler. Lower the car back down to the ground. Make sure it is level.

10. Measure the total volume drained and pumped out of the gearbox. It should be something like 6-8 liters. You have allready added 4 liters to the box, so add more fresh fluid to a total volume the same as the 6-8 liters drained out + approx 0,2 liters. Put the filler plug back into place.

11. Locate the small level plug under the gearbox. A 5mm allen key shall fit into this one. Place a low container under the gearbox.



12. The fluid level shall now be set according to the Rover procedure. Start the engine, apply the brake and go through all gears/shifter positions one by one and stay in each position for minimum 3 seconds. Return to Park. Let the engine idle until the ATF fluid has reached 35-40 degrees C. The procedure calls for a T4 to check this, but I think it will be sufficient to check the temperature at the aluminium block where the hoses are connected to the oil cooler. When this feels warn, the temperature shall be OK. Remember to put the AC system to OFF when doing this so the fan does not run.
Set the level by removing the level plug and let the fluid drain until it just "dribbles" out of the box. Put the plug back into place, stop the engine and put the air filter box back into place.

If you take a look at the fluid drained out, it will tell you how the fluid looks/smells after the replacement.



Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this How-To.

Followed this to the letter when I carried out mine, so easy and effective Thanks