Air Free Easy Coolant Fill Up K-Series & KV6

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

How can it purge the heater matrix? Remember the only exit is through the head bleed hose.

TC

I think it will work well. The bleed hose is open to air - it is the stubbing that is blocked off. It just needs a bit of positive pressure and, once all the air has been expelled coolant should flow from the raised bleed hose, and it is job done.











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[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

I think it will work well. The bleed hose is open to air - it is the stubbing that is blocked off. It just needs a bit of positive pressure

Yes I can see the principle, I'm just very surprised that it can be done by blowing into the header manually. I reckon about 0.5-1 psi is the best most people can puff (try it with a tyre gauge), but it surely needs more than that to affect the heater matrix? But I'll have a go the next time I service the coolant. I suspect bleeding a V6 will be rather more difficult than a 1.8 though. However, it should be verified by several people on different engines. If cooling system bleeding can actually be done like this as effectively as the recommended methods, it surely needs writing up as a HowTo.

TC

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Yes I can see the principle, I'm just very surprised that it can be done by blowing into the header manually. I reckon about 0.5-1 psi is the best most people can puff (try it with a tyre gauge), but it surely needs more than that to affect the heater matrix? But I'll have a go the next time I service the coolant. I suspect bleeding a V6 will be rather more difficult than a 1.8 though. However, it should be verified by several people on different engines. If cooling system bleeding can actually be done like this as effectively as the recommended methods, it surely needs writing up as a HowTo.

TC

Carried it out on two V6's recently, ZT and ZS. Works 100%. There may be a tiny top up to do after though, but I can tell you it removes the fluctuating temperature gauge scenario completely.

The only thing concerns me about this technique is the elf and safety aspect. People do not want to go inhaling the stuff or get any residue on them.

With no tools available this is the way to go rather than risk your engine overheating. I think the 1.8K with a PRT is probably the worst offender for trapped air.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Lovel

I can tell you it removes the fluctuating temperature gauge scenario completely.

Yes, the heads will be purged most easily, but I'm still dubious about the heater matrix.

The only thing concerns me about this technique is the elf and safety aspect. People do not want to go inhaling the stuff or get any residue on them.

I've already got the mouthpiece to use from my Pela vacuum rig - a large rubber bung with a hose connector on it. A good rinse under the tap will clean it well enough.

The LD50 of 100% EG is around 1.4 ml/kg (1.56 g/kg) or about 100ml (111g ) for an adult, so you'd have to be pretty reckless to poison yourself.

I look forward to trying a Breeth Bleed.

TC

[Rich in Vancouver]

I have a Motive Products pressure bleeder for hydraulics. It is pressurised by a built in stirrup pump. (Seen here doing the clutch in my MGF) I may have a go at making an adapter for the header tank on the ZT190.

[RogerHeinz57]

This method works, I have been using such technique for donkey's years. Strange how some engines are a doddle to bleed and others a complete nightmare, but happy to state that thisl technique for purging the worst out of a system never failed me to date.

[vitesse]

Just done a stubborn KV6 refill and bleed on a car bought last week, discovering two leaks in the large hoses from the thermostat in the process, one sneaky leak hidden by the extra rubber sheath. Wish I had noticed Lovel’s post two days ago as I would have tried it but not entirely convinced it would work on tough cases.

I used my compressor on a low setting together with a rag over the raised filler neck to first expel the old coolant (without it I only got about 3 litres out). And then after refilling the recommended amount, air again to force the coolant around until I got a healthy stream out of the bleed screw and I was sure all hoses contained fluid. Fixed, told daughter to take it for a test drive with obd temperature engaged.

Back again with high speed fan running and temperature at 115. Top hose not hot, carefully removed cap with rag - no overflow or hiss. Poked finger in the again raised (tilted) tank to scientifically measure the temperature, just warm.

Opened the bleed screw to expel more air, two more test drives followed by further bleeding brought the temperature down to low 90s.

As previous poster, agree funny how some KV6s are easily refilled and others defy the professionals.

Regards