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Old 22nd January 2017, 11:29   #1
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Default Steering wheel dyeing

Hello guys so I found on ebay a guy that supplies R75 sandstone beige leather dye, 50ml bottle for 15 quid, would though 50ml be enough to get a steering wheel job done? And also, should I first apply the white spirit and then the leather conditioner prior to dyeing or vice-versa?
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Old 22nd January 2017, 11:36   #2
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Yes you must clean the old leather thoroughly with spirit to get rid of dirt and grease.50 ml should be enough unless your doing a full colour change. You will need a sealer for the new dye to stop it wearing off again.
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Old 22nd January 2017, 13:43   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santara man View Post
Yes you must clean the old leather thoroughly with spirit to get rid of dirt and grease.50 ml should be enough unless your doing a full colour change. You will need a sealer for the new dye to stop it wearing off again.
Hi Tony,
Can you recommend a sealer that is compatible with this kind of dye?

Thanks,
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Old 22nd January 2017, 14:14   #4
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Santara what do you mean with the full colour change? I want to dye the whole steering wheel without the airbag protection of course.
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Old 22nd January 2017, 20:15   #5
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50ml should be enough if your restoring faded areas.

BTW, I only do leather restoration as a full time job, so don't take any notice of me lol. First of all never put a conditioner on before 'dyeing'. Technically it's not a dye - it is a pigment, but I give up explaining why.

Clean with a leather cleaner if you can then leave to dry as the moisture would have absorbed in to the the non coloured parts. Then clean with a good solvent - I would always recommend alcohol (isopropyl) its dirt cheap off the bay. This will remove more grime and make it more acceptable for the pigment to stick properly. If you don't have existing colour loss then you can skip the next 'sealing' process.

Then I would use an aerosol lacquer (leather one of course), again cheap off of a leather supplier (you can either get a matt, satin or gloss). Spray this on the steering wheel to seal in and create a hard surface as opposed to the possible existing absorbent surface (that may still harbour grease - which won't allow proper adhesion). Then apply the pigment by either sponge, sprayer, micro roller or brush. I wouldn't use a brush myself as it will leave faint brush marks. When applied speed dry with a hair dryer then apply another coat until it is uniform.

Lastly I would apply the lacquer to the finished article to seal in the colour and make it hard wearing. This would do the job perfectly but I am a perfectionist so I would also use a PU water based lacquer on top of the aerosol one to obtain a true matt finish.

Good luck.

p.s. going back to the conditioner, it is an irrelevant product on these pigment finishes, it doesn't condition it at all as you have a lacquer coat. Conditioners are for aniline dyed leathers (actual dye as opposed to pigment) as they can dry out. However, leather retailers love to sell it because people think they need it
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Last edited by KevF6; 22nd January 2017 at 21:29..
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Old 23rd January 2017, 10:17   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevF6 View Post
50ml should be enough if your restoring faded areas.

BTW, I only do leather restoration as a full time job, so don't take any notice of me lol. First of all never put a conditioner on before 'dyeing'. Technically it's not a dye - it is a pigment, but I give up explaining why.

Clean with a leather cleaner if you can then leave to dry as the moisture would have absorbed in to the the non coloured parts. Then clean with a good solvent - I would always recommend alcohol (isopropyl) its dirt cheap off the bay. This will remove more grime and make it more acceptable for the pigment to stick properly. If you don't have existing colour loss then you can skip the next 'sealing' process.

Then I would use an aerosol lacquer (leather one of course), again cheap off of a leather supplier (you can either get a matt, satin or gloss). Spray this on the steering wheel to seal in and create a hard surface as opposed to the possible existing absorbent surface (that may still harbour grease - which won't allow proper adhesion). Then apply the pigment by either sponge, sprayer, micro roller or brush. I wouldn't use a brush myself as it will leave faint brush marks. When applied speed dry with a hair dryer then apply another coat until it is uniform.

Lastly I would apply the lacquer to the finished article to seal in the colour and make it hard wearing. This would do the job perfectly but I am a perfectionist so I would also use a PU water based lacquer on top of the aerosol one to obtain a true matt finish.

Good luck.

p.s. going back to the conditioner, it is an irrelevant product on these pigment finishes, it doesn't condition it at all as you have a lacquer coat. Conditioners are for aniline dyed leathers (actual dye as opposed to pigment) as they can dry out. However, leather retailers love to sell it because people think they need it
I'm planning to do a complete colour change from sandstone/oak to ash grey/dark oak on my Facelift car steering wheel. The doner wheel is in really great, almost pristine, condition (sad to change the original colour really, tried to exchange on here for an ash grey but no takers). Would you be more specific about what leather cleaner you recommend in the first process. I've tried Stubie on here for ash grey dye/pigment but he doesn't respond so can you suggest a source for the colour I need.
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Old 23rd January 2017, 12:22   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rab60bit View Post
I'm planning to do a complete colour change from sandstone/oak to ash grey/dark oak on my Facelift car steering wheel. The doner wheel is in really great, almost pristine, condition (sad to change the original colour really, tried to exchange on here for an ash grey but no takers). Would you be more specific about what leather cleaner you recommend in the first process. I've tried Stubie on here for ash grey dye/pigment but he doesn't respond so can you suggest a source for the colour I need.
Sorry If I have missed a PM from you. I no longer sell the dye which many people used but there is a seller on ebay doing the Rover 75 colours.

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Old 23rd January 2017, 12:34   #8
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Here you go:


Leather cleaner:
http://www.buffaloleather.co.uk/leat...-power-pad.htm

Leather cleaning brush (better than using sponges/towels etc - I mentioned why in another post):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2628021497...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Leather lacquer (sealant):
http://www.buffaloleather.co.uk/leat...er-sealant.htm this is a matt but has an ever so slight sheen to it.

https://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Le...nt_Aerosol.php this one may be the same as above, or it may be a pure matt (I haven't tried it). Personally I apply a water based PU lacquer on top of the above solvent one from Buffalo - for that pure matt dull finish that looks best, but you can only buy it trade which is why it may be worth trying this one...

Leather dye:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-dy...cnsO8didWNpxww I don't know what his 'dyes' are like (it's a pigment colour i.e. leather paint, as opposed to a dye, even he gets it wrong but that's ok ). Alternatively if you can get a sample of the leather and send it to either Buffalo Leather or Furniture Clinic they will match it 100% and send back the pigment in a bottle (it can be a small piece). They are very helpful over the phone.

Micro roller (2"), Tray & Handle:
https://www.trade1st.co.uk/paint-rol...ers-2-2-5-inch blue ones are best!

Like all leather repairs, do light coats - not heavy ones. Let us know how you get on.

Kev

p.s. to have a genuine leather smell, simply spray this onto your car mats: (it's awsome stuff)
http://leathercareandrepair.co.uk/le...cent_spray.php
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Last edited by KevF6; 3rd February 2017 at 20:49..
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Old 23rd January 2017, 12:54   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STUBIE View Post
Sorry If I have missed a PM from you. I no longer sell the dye which many people used but there is a seller on ebay doing the Rover 75 colours.

Stubs
Stubs, you need to get back into business, the stuff I got from you a while back was brilliant.
As our cars get older there will be a big market for a decent sandstone beige dye as your product was !!
Did you mix the colour or get it pre mixed for you?
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Old 23rd January 2017, 14:35   #10
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Thank you guys for all your info, but one more question, what kind of brush or sponge or what's better can I use for applying the dye (or pigment or whatever it's called haha), maybe some photos so I can match one on ebay
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