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Old 27th April 2017, 14:36   #31
madeupname
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Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkS View Post
1) This is not a cleaning job for the "Old ball & chain"!
2) The "Old Ball & chain" does occasionally read this thread!
3) For security, you ought to log off when leaving the computer.
4) You are in big trouble!

From your 'loving' "Old ball & chain" !!
Brilliant!
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Mo was born Tuesday, 22nd June 2004 @ 08:32:41
This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033
This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s
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Old 27th April 2017, 19:22   #32
MarkS
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkS View Post
Mmmm. Sounds like a cleaning job for the old ball & chain maybe...
I have been informed in no uncertain manner that I was most certainly mistaken. (remove smiley)

SHMBO has not been acting on her threat to not talk to me. (remove smiley, replace by sadey).

Other good news: The washer jets are working properly.
The airbag light is working perfectly.
Just the brake pad warning light to sort, and changing the radiator fan resistor.
Things are definitely looking up all round.

Last edited by MarkS; 28th April 2017 at 13:45.. Reason: SHMBO insisted
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Old 27th April 2017, 19:25   #33
madeupname
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hehehehehe!
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Mo was born Tuesday, 22nd June 2004 @ 08:32:41
This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033
This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s
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Old 1st May 2017, 20:29   #34
MarkS
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Smile 2 speed fan, gold resistors

Just the brake pad warning light to sort, and changing the radiator fan resistor.

Ok, what resistance and power is the original silver fan resistor, and what is the resistance and power of the replacement gold resistor ?

FYI I am thinking of putting 2 gold 100W resistors of the appropriate resistance in parallel. They should be a lot more robust.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=266547
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=266516

Last edited by MarkS; 1st May 2017 at 20:32..
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Old 2nd May 2017, 15:00   #35
MarkS
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Ok, on to the brake pad low warning.

I took both offside wheels off, checked the cables and the sensors. The front sensor had had it's connector inside the wheelarch replaced by 2 blue joining crimps. One wire immediately fell out of the crimp. The blue crimp was replaced by a red crimp.

Unfortunately I still have the warning.

Q) When the fault is cleared, does the warning disappear immediately, or after a few start cycles, etc?

FBH:
Several times I have heard signs of the FBH running, when the ignition key is in my pocket, and the temperature is ~ 12 degrees centigrade. This doesn't seem correct.

Last edited by MarkS; 2nd May 2017 at 15:29.. Reason: FBH Playing up
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Old 2nd May 2017, 17:16   #36
cb750chris
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Hi Mark
The brake pad warning should disappear when you have "fixed" the fault.
The FBH running when the key is in your pocket and temp warm is probably a Broken circuit board, waking the heater up on messages on the diagnostic bus (K line).
French Mike (on here) knows his stuff with these, and may be worth dropping a PM to him.
Regards
Chris
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Now offering T4 services in the Fareham area

Replacement keys programmed / supplied / cut

Diesel 135 upgrade available

IPK virginisation and T4 matching available

Sorry, due to a big change in home circumstances, I am unable to do any large jobs at present, but can still offer evening time diagnostics.
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Old 9th May 2017, 20:12   #37
MarkS
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I swapped the PCB for one from another FBH. Shorted pin 3 to chassis, and the FBH started cooking .

It made a few funny clunks when shutting down , but every day I get a little further on !

Many thanks to FrenchMike for his advice and experience.

Last edited by MarkS; 15th May 2017 at 03:33.. Reason: Thanks to FrenchMike
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Old 11th May 2017, 06:22   #38
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Angry Steering fluid leak

A hose from the steering fluid reservoir to somewhere low under the radiator area has rubbed itself against the alternator ventilation slots and developed a small leak.



Is this an MOT failure ? Because I was hoping to take the R75T for it's MOT today.



Where does one get a replacement hose from ?
Should I avoid a secondhand hose?

Last edited by MarkS; 11th May 2017 at 11:33.. Reason: Getting fed up
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Old 13th May 2017, 20:52   #39
MarkS
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkS View Post
Ok, on to the brake pad low warning.

I took both offside wheels off, checked the cables and the sensors. The front sensor had had it's connector inside the wheelarch replaced by 2 blue joining crimps. One wire immediately fell out of the crimp. The blue crimp was replaced by a red crimp.

Unfortunately I still have the warning.

Q) When the fault is cleared, does the warning disappear immediately, or after a few start cycles, etc?
I closely inspected the front brake pad wear indicator.
On a previous occasion, it has partially worn down, exposing the copper wire inside the sensor. Over time the damp has got to the wire, corroding the wire to the point where it has gone open circuit, giving me a false alarm.
Replacing the sensor now gives me a CLEAR set of warning lights, and leaves the LCD IPK to concentrate continuously on the satnav instructions.

Am I a happy chappie
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Old 15th May 2017, 03:29   #40
MarkS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkS View Post
A hose from the steering fluid reservoir to somewhere low under the radiator area has rubbed itself against the alternator ventilation slots and developed a small leak.



Is this an MOT failure ? Because I was hoping to take the R75T for it's MOT today.



Where does one get a replacement hose from ?
Should I avoid a secondhand hose?
OK, I may have been a bit premature in stating that the hose from the PAS reservoir may have been rubbing against the alternator.
1) The whole area is extremely oily and dirty. The under tray is missing.
2) There is a over pipe on the hose, it starts around the area of the alternator, and goes downwards. The top of the over pipe is frayed and therefore looked like it had been rubbing on the alternator. With further inspection, it may not have been rubbing on the alternator.
3) I have cleaned the whole area as good as possible using paper towels, and wait to see if it shows further leaks.
Q1) Is is better to clean up, and remove the protective properties of the oil stopping rust, or leave alone and possibly conceal any leaks ?
Q2) Is there a better way of cleaning up than a pressure washer and plenty of detergent ? Access by hand is very restricted, oily hands are unavoidable, and OBAC will not let me get close to her with oily hands, in case I leave fingerprints everywhere. (I am being very careful what I say here. )
I will avoid the air inlet under the slam panel, and not run the engine until it has had a chance to dry.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Last edited by MarkS; 15th May 2017 at 03:47..
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