Black coolant expansion tanks?

[Arctic]

The header tank in the photo came from a 2001 cowley car Rover conni.

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by Arctic

The header tank in the photo came from a 2001 cowley car Rover conni.

So the black tank with the level sensor is a production fit item then. Just need to find one now

[Arctic]

Hi TC yes I think it was their plan to fit float sensor reef as in the washer bottle few photo's below I think way back in 2012 we were tinkering on the idea for the 1.8 engine but nothing ever came of it.

I recently cut out another one Arctic

[Arctic]

I have one in my shed for fitting to my MGZT 190 sometime, have you got a plan for fitting a float in it to make it into a sensor etc ?

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by Arctic

I have one in my shed for fitting to my MGZT 190 sometime, have you got a plan for fitting a float in it to make it into a sensor etc ?

On the black tank with the moulding for the sensor would it take a standard sensor from an R25/45 ZR/ZS etc? It looks like you would just need to drill the blank out and fit the sensor with an o-ring and just click into place?

You don't have the one with the sensor actually in it though do you?.

My local scrappy just got rid of an X reg and I think it had the black tank but did not look on the underside, so I obtained a couple of more beige tanks to try things with.

My plan atm is to take a standard beige tank and fit a compressible type of vertical float on the underside. The float space-out seems to be adjacent to the coolant levels, but will do a trial fit on a cut open tank to see first. The benefit of the sensor underneath is that there are baffles inside the tank that shelter the sensor a little and would hopefully help avoid spurious warning lights. I plan to hook it up to the low line IPK so it looks original. Just wish I had ZCS codes that would allow the existing low level warning light to be enabled.

Ideally would have liked a black tank with the sensor but these may be rather difficult to obtain?

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Lovel

Ideally would have liked a black tank with the sensor but these may be rather difficult to obtain?

Are you saying MGR actually did fit the float and reed switch in some 75/ZTs? Were they diesels? I ask because the diesel HiLine screen incorporates a low coolant warning icon that appears is all the Handbooks.This is the last one (2004).



TC

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Are you saying MGR actually did fit the float and reed switch in some 75/ZTs? Were they diesels? I ask because the diesel HiLine screen incorporates a low coolant warning icon that appears is all the Handbooks.This is the last one (2004).
TC

Post #3 shows a black tank with sensor fitted. The low line IPK for a petrol model also has the low coolant tank warning light too, although not activated either via ZCS coding unfortunately.

[Lovel]

Following on from a post created by poster Pevil, I took a different approach and received my vertical sensor reed switch in the post today so time to play.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=160762

Cut lid off tank.
Drill hole 22-23mm in bottom.
Blank of lower tank drain for test.
Swap arrow orientation over to facing down on the float.
Check resistance between terminal No resistance (switch closed contacts).
Fit sensor to tank.
Top up level with 50% OAT to the low level, float almost covered and at almost top of stroke. (12.7mm travel)
Top up level with OAT to High mark, float completely submerged and at top of stroke.
Infinity reading on multimeter

Now just need to work out how to join the top back on the tank again

The sensor is placed between the tank baffle plates and hopefully there wont be too much sloshing around with coolant and triggering of the warning light too early.

The sensor seems to be quite robust and the seal itself appears to be very good with plenty of compression to provide a long term seal. The senor is rated at 130degC, 70psi. Max

http://www.tme.eu/en/details/lrnv-31...ell/lrnv31s41/

I'd still prefer a black tank with sensor though, but this should do for the moment.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Lovel

Now just need to work out how to join the top back on the tank again

Doh! It was going so well up to here!

I found the tank will split at the seam if you use a sharp bolster and a heavy mallet on a concrete floor. It should be easier to re-seal doing it this way.




TC

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Doh! It was going so well up to here!

I found the tank will split at the seam if you use a sharp bolster and a heavy mallet on a concrete floor. It should be easier to re-seal doing it this way.




TC

Hmm I didn't think the lid would come apart as clean as that. My plan was just to use a spare tank and off course leave the top on

If the top of the tank was removed the sensor could be inserted conventionally from the inside giving a more reliable seal in my opinion, However the downside is the lid joint could now be the weakest point. The joining of the parts would need to be able to stand the large cross sectional area at pressure and temperature compared to the relatively small 22mm hole cross sectional area. Any thoughts on what bonding agent/technique would work on the top. The downside of the sensor being fitted from the inside if it fails it isn't coming out easy, but if instead fitted from outside could be removed easily

I might try feeding the sensor in from the top without taking the lid off but would be like a ship in a bottle trick. After cutting the tank open it looks like there may be enough room to jiggle the sensor in there over the baffle plates, but would need to try.