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Old 28th October 2016, 14:10   #11
RattyB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wnj516 View Post
Ratty, Well done the pic shows your enthusiasm, your the first I know who has done it that way, so you have removed the complete valve and replaced it. having not seen the valve myself is it similar to the one in the plenum or have you a picture of the faulty one.


Here is my leaking valve controller. It would appear to be a case of the antifreeze mixed at a ratio of 50:50 is destroying these valves, as well as causing a whole host of other problems. OAT anti-freeze should be between 25 and 30% mix, rather than MGR's 50% recommendation. In short: 50% is way too strong.

Here is a link to the discussion, you'll need to be a full member to view it.
http://www9.mg-cars.org.uk/mgoc260/f...chnical-Corner
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Old 28th October 2016, 16:30   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RattyB View Post


Here is my leaking valve controller. It would appear to be a case of the antifreeze mixed at a ratio of 50:50 is destroying these valves, as well as causing a whole host of other problems. OAT anti-freeze should be between 25 and 30% mix, rather than MGR's 50% recommendation. In short: 50% is way too strong.

Here is a link to the discussion, you'll need to be a full member to view it.
http://www9.mg-cars.org.uk/mgoc260/f...chnical-Corner

Another victim of the dreaded oat on plastic components....


(Awaits the debate to start over again)
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Old 28th October 2016, 16:37   #13
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Thanks for the pic, the valve is different from the water valve in the plenum, I would agree with you having stripped my plenum valve to find the seals having split, these seals must be available somewhere as there are other cars using a two pipe variation of the valve and it's made in Mexico, and there seals don't split because they don't use OAT antifreeze, if you are going to strip the valve down could you put a pic up of the disassembled parts please.
Thanks Nigel
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Old 29th October 2016, 11:37   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wnj516 View Post
Thanks for the pic, the valve is different from the water valve in the plenum, I would agree with you having stripped my plenum valve to find the seals having split, these seals must be available somewhere as there are other cars using a two pipe variation of the valve and it's made in Mexico, and there seals don't split because they don't use OAT antifreeze, if you are going to strip the valve down could you put a pic up of the disassembled parts please.
Thanks Nigel
I was actually going to bin that valve as I bought a new one. I got it from here: http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/mg-...e000060-valve/

According to the experts on the 260s, OAT is fine if you don't mix it up at 50/50 ratio
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Old 29th October 2016, 16:20   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RattyB View Post


Here is my leaking valve controller. It would appear to be a case of the antifreeze mixed at a ratio of 50:50 is destroying these valves, as well as causing a whole host of other problems. OAT anti-freeze should be between 25 and 30% mix, rather than MGR's 50% recommendation. In short: 50% is way too strong.

Here is a link to the discussion, you'll need to be a full member to view it.
http://www9.mg-cars.org.uk/mgoc260/f...chnical-Corner
Using OAT is not safe, as far as I am concerned. I have used green or blue antifreeze for years, and it is perfectly OK also for the Rover engines, just don't buy cheap unbranded versions which are often just green food colour!. It just has to be changed at two year intervals. But as the cooling system on a used Rover usually will give problems well before two years, it is rather academic, as the coolant will be changed whenever there are leaks or water pumps, header tanks, radiators, valves etc have to be changed.
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Old 6th December 2016, 09:26   #16
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was going to suggest the internal matrix distribution valve but you found it. Unfortunately Im not able to "black olive" this one due to space envelope constraints (theres a bit more room in the plenum). A few have fitted a 15mm T piece in its place
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Old 10th December 2016, 06:17   #17
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Yep, same thing happened to me when I had the R75 V8. In the end I had to get some help from my local garage, who were great and actually listened to my advice, which of course I got from the clubs.
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Old 10th December 2016, 14:47   #18
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Is this the valve that causes the annoying clicking in the dash when the temperature is set to anything other than maximum or minimum?

It really gets on my nerves.

Once you adjust the temp, you hear the motor move something, then its back to its intermitted ticking every 30secs, or maybe 45secs.

Does my head in, but seems to function "normally"

Others have noticed this sound also, so its not just me going crazy?

It was the sort of sound that made me think it was the key fob knocking against the steering column cover, but it was not this of course.
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Old 18th December 2016, 22:39   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black olive View Post
was going to suggest the internal matrix distribution valve but you found it. Unfortunately Im not able to "black olive" this one due to space envelope constraints (theres a bit more room in the plenum). A few have fitted a 15mm T piece in its place
You can't do that with this - it's a 4 way connection. X-part stock it though...
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