Off to see an E Class tomorrow

jonathan63 · 23rd March 2017, 16:08

It's a 2004 270cdi estate with a towbar, FSH and 178 miles on the clock. The high(ish) miles bothers me a bit but I'm hoping that, if it's been looked after well anything that has needed changing has been changed along the way.

I'll take it for a test drive and give it a look over but it's a couple of years since I bought a car, so if you have any tips on inspecting it and haggling I'll be eternally grateful.

I'll mothball the 75 for posterior.

sponge_mike · 23rd March 2017, 16:57

Check the wheel arches for signs of blistering and read the service history carefully.

Mike

jonathan63 · 23rd March 2017, 18:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by sponge_mike

Check the wheel arches for signs of blistering and read the service history carefully.

Mike

Cheers Mike. Its a facelift E which shouldn't be too bad for rot.

MSS · 23rd March 2017, 19:14

1. The rust problems were addressed from the 2006 facelift version of the W211 e-class. So, check for wheel arch rust as advised above.

2. Check the date of manufacture on the SBC module (looking under the bonnet, it is the unit on the driver's side with brake pipes coming out of the top. It should have been replaced but if it is more than 3-4 years old, budget around £1k to £1.2k for replacement including coding in the car.

3. Check for smooth gear changes without any gearbox noises. Also, the greabox should be vibration free.

4. Check for smooth braking - again could indicate SBC faults if not smooth.

5. Check for broken springs. It's not just a 75 problem

Good luck.

SCP440 · 23rd March 2017, 20:29

If it has any faults don't just presume it will be a cheap fix, some Mercedes parts prices especially the parts that are only available through them can be eye wateringly expensive.

Take an OBD code reader with you, plug it in and it will tell you if the seller is trying to hide anything electrically. Warning lights can be removed or codes can be deleted but the ECU wont lie. I know a Merc estate that once quizzed electrically showed dozens of faults, they could all be cleared but were all back again once driven and the systems exercised.

23rd March 2017, 16:08	#1
jonathan63 This is my second home CDTi Conniosseur SE HLNav Tourer and a Personal Line CDT Conniosseur SE Tourer..for the time being. Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cumbria Posts: 3,639 Thanks: 340 Thanked 423 Times in 294 Posts	Off to see an E Class tomorrow It's a 2004 270cdi estate with a towbar, FSH and 178 miles on the clock. The high(ish) miles bothers me a bit but I'm hoping that, if it's been looked after well anything that has needed changing has been changed along the way. I'll take it for a test drive and give it a look over but it's a couple of years since I bought a car, so if you have any tips on inspecting it and haggling I'll be eternally grateful. I'll mothball the 75 for posterior.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

23rd March 2017, 16:57	#2
sponge_mike Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur SE CDTi Automatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Skegness Posts: 899 Thanks: 191 Thanked 157 Times in 96 Posts	Check the wheel arches for signs of blistering and read the service history carefully. Mike

23rd March 2017, 19:14	#4
MSS This is my second home Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7,083 Thanks: 283 Thanked 624 Times in 440 Posts	1. The rust problems were addressed from the 2006 facelift version of the W211 e-class. So, check for wheel arch rust as advised above. 2. Check the date of manufacture on the SBC module (looking under the bonnet, it is the unit on the driver's side with brake pipes coming out of the top. It should have been replaced but if it is more than 3-4 years old, budget around £1k to £1.2k for replacement including coding in the car. 3. Check for smooth gear changes without any gearbox noises. Also, the greabox should be vibration free. 4. Check for smooth braking - again could indicate SBC faults if not smooth. 5. Check for broken springs. It's not just a 75 problem Good luck.

23rd March 2017, 20:29	#5
SCP440 I really should get out more....... MG ZT-T 260 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Witney Posts: 2,504 Thanks: 6 Thanked 910 Times in 571 Posts	If it has any faults don't just presume it will be a cheap fix, some Mercedes parts prices especially the parts that are only available through them can be eye wateringly expensive. Take an OBD code reader with you, plug it in and it will tell you if the seller is trying to hide anything electrically. Warning lights can be removed or codes can be deleted but the ECU wont lie. I know a Merc estate that once quizzed electrically showed dozens of faults, they could all be cleared but were all back again once driven and the systems exercised.