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9th July 2016, 05:56 | #31 |
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Awesome, thank you all for this information.
I finally got around to dropping a multimeter across it, with the demister on, I had no 12V at the relay. Feeling frustrated, I packed up and went inside. Suddenly remembered, I still had the 80 A fuse removed. So finally, Voltage at the red relay wire, no running fan. I will study this how to over the weekend. Thanks again, I can't convey my appreciation enough. |
13th July 2016, 11:24 | #32 |
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Sheesh,
I must be in the Stoopid Zone, can't pry the cover off as shown in images 6 and 7, just seems it's locked solid. (oh and a few skinned knuckles ) |
13th July 2016, 22:49 | #33 | |
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Quote:
Make sure you have squashed the lugs together also bent them up straight, then use the edge of the mole grips to squeeze together the lug and the edge of the lid https://youtu.be/ls1BJGxUoPo
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14th July 2016, 08:58 | #34 |
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That's a good tip Steve. I gently tapped mine, but it was enough to crack one of the brittle permanent magnets (the motor still works though).
Simon
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15th July 2016, 04:25 | #35 |
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Ok,
Finally got the lid off; pics attached. I'm a bit concerned with the scoring on the commutator. Should I be worried that it's too late? Hopefully you can view the images, I'm much of a wombat with stuff like this. https://drive.google.com/folderview?...0k&usp=sharing |
15th July 2016, 09:50 | #36 | ||
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Images/photo can be seen, I have thrown commutators which have been scored like that, I am surprised that the wiring is still in tact best thing you can do is clean it up use a bit of emery paper on the commutator then go from there, i see that all the brushes have taken a battering so the fan must have ran right up to the end of it's capacity. These are ones i have thrown away airing on the safe side. Where as this one i would say is salvageable
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15th July 2016, 11:04 | #37 |
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Excellent advice Steve.
Simon
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15th July 2016, 11:34 | #38 |
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Thanks again Arctic,
I am concerned about the commutator being salvageable. I've checked the ECP site you guys suggested. Whilst in many cases I have bought parts from Rimmers, when we equate or dollar to your pound it comes in at another 70 bucks. (I've already spent $$ on breather hoses and pressure cap from Rimmers) A good friend of mine is an electrician and he's done many of these rebuilds. He is located in another part of Australia, but I might explore the option of asking him to repair it. If I go down this route does any one know the spec/dimensions of the brushes? I don't want junk, but I do need to keep an eye on all these costs. |
15th July 2016, 19:33 | #39 | |
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A set of four motor brushes posted to Australia costs £35 which I believe equates to $AUS 60. That's a pretty cheap repair if you do it yourself. It's less than I paid in the UK seven years ago!
Quote:
The material grade is M17 and the dimensions are 4.6 x 9.65 x 23 mm long. The electrical connection is by flexible braid. The face is shaped to make good contact with the commutator. If you do decide to 'shop around' I should warn you about the poor quality brushes offered on e-bay. Several members have bought these and found that they fail in a very short period of time. My ECP brushes are still in service after 25,000 miles. Simon
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15th July 2016, 22:42 | #40 |
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Thanks for the info Simon. I have read of your warning previously.
Perhaps I should clarify a little more. As the commutator is possibly not salvageable I'm just exploring the logistics of also sending that for refurbishing or replacement, so it's not just the cost of the brushes I'm looking at. If it were purely that I'd have no problem buying from ECP as I have checked their website. Up until I found my commutator in the condition it is, I would have already purchased them from ECP. I have also found one of the few businesses that do brushes is actually located here, so on Monday I will take my fan down for a check up. |
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