Battery Light On

[Rp61973]

When I had the old brush pack/regulator off I noticed that both slip rings were very deeply worn (significantly stepped) and I suspect the output has been improved marginally by the new brushes and regulator.

Surprisingly the old brushes were non too worn. The car has not even done 70k miles so I am concerned I have as OS alternator in the first place!

[Stickman]

When I had this problem with my old tourer it was posted on here at some length mate - I was helped along the way by Ron (snagger) who had been a victim of the same fate and I have to say he was adamant all along the wiring loom was where the fault was and subsequently he proved to be correct
I decided one day I was going to finally fix the issue so removed the front bumper etc Then follow the loom from the headlight up the inner wing and behind the washer bottle (offside wing) it may be necessary to remove the washer bottle possibly
You need to strip the insulation back all the way back until you find the break(s)
In the wires mate
There's quite a bundle of wires but thoroughly split them apart and search for the breaks - if you don't find any then look again buddy
In my case I found 2 wires broken completely and another 2 with bare insulation and evidence of some shorting (as in burnt)
It has to be said prior to that day I had replaced the brush pack on the first alternator with eternal thanks to BrianW a fellow member
Then replaced the battery with a new one
Then a brand new alternator
At each of those events the battery light went out for a week or two
And I thought on each occasion I had fixed the issue
But I still couldn't achieve a decent charge rate
My car barely made 12 volts at idle and not much more when driving
You have really got to get 13.9 volts or above to put an end to that red charge light
Lemme know how you get on mate and maybe pm Ron (snagger) he was a great help to me having his experience on tap spurred me on and pointed me in the right direction too
Regards
Chris