Crankshaft pulley removal-made easy!! - Page 3

robmac · 6th August 2013, 15:46

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/cranksha...lg-p-4522.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by robmac

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/cranksha...lg-p-4522.html

Go to European car parts for the belts, put in your registration number and buy the two belts shown

http://www.eurocarparts.com/car-drive-belt
There you go :thumbup:

NJP · 22nd April 2017, 18:42

Just completed a change of my pulley, having taken MickyWillis' advice I now have a set of tools for the job. I've been very grateful for all of the help from the forum over the last two years of my MG ZT-T ownership.

So if anyone needing to change a pulley wishes to borrow the tools please let me know. I'm in Sussex near East Grinstead.

Currently the locking tool is available on ebay for less than £40, it worked great for me. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252760962325 and saves the hassle of removing the starter.

allan t · 22nd April 2017, 20:50

Good idea from OP except for the 4 ft extension on a ratchet,that could end in tears when the locking tooth shears off the ratchet internals

Mike Noc · 23rd April 2017, 07:55

Yep could be nasty if it lets go when you have all your weight on it, which would probably be the case.

Decent quality breaker bar is the way to go.

polinsteve · 23rd April 2017, 10:08

For those of us without the heavier duty tools or welder, this is a relatively cheap and easy method:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...66#post2469066

xamtex · 23rd April 2017, 18:52

i got my mobile truck tyrefitter mate to undo mine with his h/d inch drive airgun...no need to lock anything.

alexltw · 26th October 2017, 08:54

hi am I being thick have removed the bolt but does not seem to be enough room between the face of the body and the body work to remove the pulley . how far out does it have to come away from the engine or is there anything else holding it on ?

EastPete · 26th October 2017, 09:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexltw

hi am I being thick have removed the bolt but does not seem to be enough room between the face of the body and the body work to remove the pulley . how far out does it have to come away from the engine or is there anything else holding it on ?

Alex
This thread concerns the crank pulley on diesels - I think your car is a 1.8 if your profile info is correct.

Pete

rustymotor · 26th October 2017, 10:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by xamtex

i got my mobile truck tyrefitter mate to undo mine with his h/d inch drive airgun...no need to lock anything.

Think this is the most sensible route for this job, doing it on a drive and extending out past the hub with bars etc is fraught with danger for the DIY guy. Often you can't get the car high enough to do it properly and you run the risk of shearing the bolt. Just my 10ps worth.

alexltw · 27th October 2017, 19:19

sorry yes all done and sorted thank you and on the drive .I have a 1.8 a v6 and a diesel . job was on the diesel . it just needed a little persuasion.

22nd April 2017, 18:42	#22
NJP Newbie 2 x MG ZT-T Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Ashdown Forest Posts: 16 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Pay back time Just completed a change of my pulley, having taken MickyWillis' advice I now have a set of tools for the job. I've been very grateful for all of the help from the forum over the last two years of my MG ZT-T ownership. So if anyone needing to change a pulley wishes to borrow the tools please let me know. I'm in Sussex near East Grinstead. Currently the locking tool is available on ebay for less than £40, it worked great for me. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252760962325 and saves the hassle of removing the starter. Last edited by NJP; 22nd April 2017 at 22:03..

22nd April 2017, 20:50	#23
allan t Avid contributor mg zt cdti + 75 connie cdti Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: aberdeen Posts: 200 Thanks: 90 Thanked 26 Times in 21 Posts	Good idea from OP except for the 4 ft extension on a ratchet,that could end in tears when the locking tooth shears off the ratchet internals

23rd April 2017, 07:55	#24
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,548 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Yep could be nasty if it lets go when you have all your weight on it, which would probably be the case. Decent quality breaker bar is the way to go.

23rd April 2017, 10:08	#25
polinsteve Gets stuck in 75 Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: UCKFIELD Posts: 502 Thanks: 35 Thanked 122 Times in 85 Posts	For those of us without the heavier duty tools or welder, this is a relatively cheap and easy method: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...66#post2469066

23rd April 2017, 18:52	#26
xamtex Regular poster rover 75cdti/MGZT260 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: nuneaton Posts: 40 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	i got my mobile truck tyrefitter mate to undo mine with his h/d inch drive airgun...no need to lock anything.

26th October 2017, 08:54	#27
alexltw Newbie 75 saloon/75 tourer Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: battle Posts: 29 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	hi am I being thick have removed the bolt but does not seem to be enough room between the face of the body and the body work to remove the pulley . how far out does it have to come away from the engine or is there anything else holding it on ?

27th October 2017, 19:19	#30
alexltw Newbie 75 saloon/75 tourer Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: battle Posts: 29 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	sorry yes all done and sorted thank you and on the drive .I have a 1.8 a v6 and a diesel . job was on the diesel . it just needed a little persuasion.