At Last

[Saga Lout]

I just took the 75 for some fuel, it has a few small issues I need to tick off but I like the way it feels with the new clutch and engine rebuild. It's smooth but I detected some roughness in the drivetrain, I suspect the front wheel bearings are worn. The engine has almost new everything and it shows with the way it pulls through the gears. The new modified return nozzle is no longer connected to the inlet manifold, and that's taken away any future possibility of water getting past the gasket. I'll go through it again tomorrow and double check things now it's had a run out.
It's been hard after the eye surgery but it's job done. To recap it's had a new LUK Clutch and slave, it's had new cylinder liners and pistons, new oil pump and crank seal, the head has been totally serviced and new camshaft oil seals/cambelt. Every single part that was taken off has been cleaned thoroughly and of course, new oil and filter. It's effectively a new engine again.

[WillyHeckaslike]

Originally Posted by Saga Lout

The new modified return nozzle is no longer connected to the inlet manifold, and that's taken away any future possibility of water getting past the gasket.

Interesting, Mike. So what have you done, are you referring to the air-bleed circuit for the head?

[Saga Lout]

Originally Posted by WillyHeckaslike

Interesting, Mike. So what have you done, are you referring to the air-bleed circuit for the head?

This is what I've done...It works well.

[WillyHeckaslike]

I see. So have you removed the bearing valve to do that? The cul-de-sac on the other end of the head tends to be the main problem area, given the long history of trouble with coolant leaking into N.4 cylinder via it I'm surprised that someone hasn't yet made a core plug for it.

[Saga Lout]

Originally Posted by WillyHeckaslike

I see. So have you removed the bearing valve to do that? The cul-de-sac on the other end of the head tends to be the main problem area, given the long history of trouble with coolant leaking into N.4 cylinder via it I'm surprised that someone hasn't yet made a core plug for it.

It's already been done on this head, I'll take off the manifold and take a picture of the plug, 5/8 UNF tap and a plug after rounding up the hole with a round file. It's the nearest size I could get, I used a new temp' sender and cut it up as I have dozens of them to use as a tester. The nozzle was from an old fuel pump, and soldered into the remains of the temp' sender before I screwed it into the head.

[Saga Lout]

Originally Posted by Saga Lout

It's already been done on this head, I'll take off the manifold and take a picture of the plug, 5/8 UNF tap and a plug after rounding up the hole with a round file. It's the nearest size I could get, I used a new temp' sender and cut it up as I have dozens of them to use as a tester. The nozzle was from an old fuel pump, and soldered into the remains of the temp' sender before I screwed it into the head.

I have a small water leak from the thermostat O ring in the block, so I've whipped off the inlet manifold today to get at it easier. As you can see in the picture there's a threaded plug in the hole, it's secured with Araldite on the threads. I've also made the nozzle on the other side a bit longer to make it easier to get the clip on the hose. I think it's two worthwhile mods to a known problem, it also rules out the gasket as a cause of coolant loss should it happen.

[WillyHeckaslike]

Originally Posted by Saga Lout

This is what I've done...It works well.

Des Hammill I think is correct in his view that removal of the bleed valve will result in unrestricted coolant flow through that part of the circuit direct to the expansion bottle. It bypasses the radiator and by design the bypass flow does the same and their combined effect according to Des can be ~ 20% uncooled coolant flowing in the engine depending on its RPM.

He reckons that might be ok providing the rest of the system remains good but I personally am in favour of leaving the bleed valve in place. If it is removed I would opt to make and fit the 1.5mm cleanable flow restrictor which he describes in his book.

[minimutly]

Volume/or flow, (take your pick) wise he might be right, but when that uncooled flow returns to the stat it will open a bit further to compensate, thus retrning to equilibrium, or just above.
No issue really.

[Saga Lout]

I've taken out the stat and with the new water flow rate after the mod, the car runs just under quarter to nine temp without it. The car warms up faster, the heater is just fine and it behaves like it still has the stat. It would seem that at the moment it defies logic but I can't think of any other reason for this, I'm going to change the radiator as I think it's partially blocked and then see what happens. Who knows? It might just be a great mod for others to consider.

[Rooney]

This car is going to be worth some money when you sell it Mike.

When will that be?