The hydramount,a new theory.....discuss

[rosephus]

Originally Posted by whippet

After changing my lower engine mount to a mondeo mount, the vibration through the body is still there when accelerating, my next move will be to change the Hydramount, i cannot see any cracks/perishing of the rubber body, after reading many posts on this subject,looks like this could be the culprit.

me too

[Anthony & Maricel]

Originally Posted by whippet

After changing my lower engine mount to a mondeo mount, the vibration through the body is still there when accelerating, my next move will be to change the Hydramount, i cannot see any cracks/perishing of the rubber body, after reading many posts on this subject,looks like this could be the culprit.

Getting both changed at the same time, makes a big difference. My hydro mount started leaking in October, and my lower engine mount went in November. So I had a lot of vibration to deal with, my last journey home from lates600 8 days ago was a totally different one; to the one going. It was both vibration and clunk free, considering the parts on my car are 16 years old. Leighton was quite impressed it was the original lower engine mount, and so was I to be honest. And I had oem parts fitted, and the parts were not as expensive as some people have been posting on here.

[Anthony & Maricel]

Originally Posted by wuzerk

Here the pic of my diesel Hydramount which was allowing serious vibrations
to reach the steering wheel and seats

Note the splits in the rubber which I now believe are because it has hardened over time losing its ability to absorb the engine vibration without passing it through the car.

The rubber on that has perished, so if you have one remotely looking like that I would get it changed.

[Anthony & Maricel]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Probably the same reason many prefer the rubber bushed lower tie bars to the new PU versions.

TC

I agree, pub's alter the ride comfort, makes it more harsher than the original rubber ones.

[Jules]

Originally Posted by wuzerk

I have a new theory about the Hydramount. I have two brand new diesel
Hydramounts and the old original which was passing serious vibration back to
the steering wheel and the seats. When fitting the new mount cured the problem I assumed that the old one had softened with use and was allowing too much
engine movement coupled with the fact that the rubber had many splits in it.
This does no tally with the fact that the two new mounts are easier to bend
back and forth than the old replaced one! In other words the rubber is more supple. I have come to the conclusion that the reason we have to change the Hydramount is because the rubber has stiffened with age which means that it cannot allow the normal amount of engine movement without passing
some of it back through its lower mounting on the chassis to the steering wheel and seats. I was able to compare the engine vibration at tickover on my car with my sons diesel which needs a new mount and they feel identical but my car has no wheel or seat vibration now whereas his is quite bad. In other words the new softer mount is better able to isolate the same amount of vibration from the chassis.

Thread revival (need more of them!)

Having changed a few now with transforming results the same theory goes for the lower torsional pulley.

The new pulleys (only genuine Corteco though) have very supple rubber.

Cheaper aftermarket pulleys have hard rubber which just doesn't last nor does it have the damping qualities even from day 1.


Same goes for the lower Teardrop mount.


So if your pride and joy is feeling like a bone shaking noisy Black Cab or an LDV, treat it to one or all 3 of the above and it will feel like new again.

I say again though avoid after market stuff.
It's all what I call fake (landfill stuff) from China and will last as long as your cheese butty!

[hogweed]

Originally Posted by rosephus

you can solve that door locking buzz by putting some mcdonalds straws over your door locks, cut them down the middle and in half and slide them over. problem solved!

I just wrapped a single turn of black insulating tape round mine

But I tell you another thing – my vibration’s gone away. It PLAGUED me, so I got the bottom mount replaced first maybe 3 years ago – that seemed to work for a week or two – then the top one, same, maybe a few days then it all came back… so I gave up.

But I’ve just noticed recently that the nasty buzz through the steering wheel hasn’t been there for AGES now.

God knows where it’s gone

[Jules]

Problem there is I never go to those Mc places ever !!

[iandux]

Quote: Looked at mine whilst doing thermostat. The rubber is quite crazed and almost cracking. No bad signs of vibration in car though (only annoying little vibration at 1800rpm ish).

Hi - I had the same vibration at 1800rpm - changed the lower (dogbone) engine mount and it disappeared. Took local garage 15 minutes, and most of that was putting it on the ramp and gaining access!