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Old 24th May 2015, 18:51   #1
KernowRover
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Default Towbar Electrics

Hi All,

Your advice needed please,
I have just purchased a MGR detachable saloon towbar - part number VUB002930 from a member on the forum.
However, it does not come with any wiring at all.
What do I need to obtain to complete the installation (for towing a small trailer only), and where can I get it from?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Tom
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Old 24th May 2015, 19:00   #2
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Prewired sockets on eBay for a few quid and wire into the rear lights.
My wife's zt has been like that since we got it and not had any issues only ever used for a small trailer back and forth to the tip.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=201324964955
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Old 24th May 2015, 19:23   #3
KernowRover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wullie480 View Post
Prewired sockets on eBay for a few quid and wire into the rear lights.
My wife's zt has been like that since we got it and not had any issues only ever used for a small trailer back and forth to the tip.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=201324964955
Hi Wullie,

Thanks very much for that, please excuse my ignorance but is there not a relay involved as well?

Regards
Tom
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Old 25th May 2015, 10:05   #4
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You only need a split charge relay if your towing a caravan, you should have a unit that will either flash an led Or a sounder when you indicate with the trailer on. This wires in line to your indicator wiring in the towbar wiring.

http://www.ringautomotive.co.uk/uk/p.../Relays/RCT380
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Old 25th May 2015, 11:34   #5
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You need a by-pass relay as our cars have a bulb failure warning system. The system monitors resistance in the circuit and the extra trailer lights just wired into the cars rear lights will cause the warning system to activate.

Google towing wiring with by-pass relay and you will see what you need.
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Old 1st July 2015, 11:44   #6
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Is the only problem with wiring up the trailer socket to the indicators that the warning light comes on whenever it's in use? I've got the relay ready to fit, and the connector kit for the fuse box......but it's very tempting to go for the easy option and connect straight up to the indicator wires. I won't be using it that often and, when I do, I'm sure I can put up with a warning light stuck on.
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Old 1st July 2015, 19:30   #7
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It'd actually be illegal - you have to have some form of indication that the trailer turn signals are working (or not), which can be either a buzzer or a light on the dash. The proper Rover kit hooks into the LSM so that any bulb outages on the trailer trigger the same warning as it would for the car bulbs. Also bear in mind that the extra load of the trailer bulbs could damage the LSM itself - shouldn't, but could.

Last edited by Sector-9; 1st July 2015 at 19:35..
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Old 1st July 2015, 21:42   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodgerD View Post
You need a by-pass relay as our cars have a bulb failure warning system. The system monitors resistance in the circuit and the extra trailer lights just wired into the cars rear lights will cause the warning system to activate.

Google towing wiring with by-pass relay and you will see what you need.
Ive done towbars on 2 mg zts, my uncles 2001 zt and my 2003 zt and wired them both the traditional way with just the buzzer and never had any bulb failure warning with the caravans on the back so see no need to fit a 7 way bypass relay.

Last edited by anddyy; 1st July 2015 at 21:44..
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Old 1st July 2015, 21:44   #9
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I used this one on my dads ZT, no bulb errors and easy to install:

http://r.ebay.com/SlX0PA
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Old 1st July 2015, 22:20   #10
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I wired my towbar up and used a relay block from Ryder, very easy to do.

I also fitted the second "power" socket and used another Ryder relay, auto switching. I used 10mm wire from the fusebox and routed the cable under the car with the brake pipes.

I took the feed for it from the unused "big fuse" (FL5) space in the under bonnet fusebox (for self levelling suspension) and fitted it with a 15 Amp fuse.

I made a little adapter that uses 2 spade terminals screwed into the "big-fuse" space so I could use a >standard< fuse as I thought a 30 Amp "bigboy" was far too much (30 Amp is the smallest "bigboy fuse)
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