|
||
|
23rd May 2017, 07:14 | #1 |
This is my second home
BMW 330d Tourer, MG ZT 180 SE XPG, VW Polo 6R 1.2 TDI Bluemotion Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: York
Posts: 6,022
Thanks: 363
Thanked 574 Times in 319 Posts
|
Rear Brake Pipe Failure
Ready to set off this morning and noticed a few oily patches on the drive under the offside rear wheel. Started the car and the brake pedal went straight to the floor, so I pumped it a bit and it seemed to bite again. Got to the end of the driveway and brake pedal went to the floor again.
Luckily my handbrake saved me and I managed to reverse back onto the driveway. How hard a job is it to replace that brake pipe? Can't drive the car as there's no brakes so need to get it done on the drive |
23rd May 2017, 07:49 | #2 |
Avid contributor
2004 Rover75 Tourer Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Winsford Cheshire
Posts: 147
Thanks: 41
Thanked 43 Times in 32 Posts
|
Not a difficult job really to change the pipe ..You will need to find which pipe has failed whether it's a rubber flexy pipe or a metal one. Undo the joins at either end and remove the pipe your local car spares shop should be able to supply a new one.
The difficult part is bleeding the brakes after the repair usually a 2 man job and it would be advisable to bleed the whole system starting with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder.
__________________
Growing old gracefully in a 75...Real nameTony |
23rd May 2017, 08:09 | #3 |
This is my second home
Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin)
Posts: 21,752
Thanks: 341
Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts
|
Replace any metal pipework with Kunifer (eBay). The original steel pipes corrode like fury and are the Number 1 cause of MOT failure.
TC |
23rd May 2017, 09:58 | #4 |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,344
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
|
The first thing to do Alan is to have a look under the floorpan on the driver's side. It's very likely that the pipe run from the front to the rear of the car has corroded where it passes through one of the securing clips. This is what happened to me a couple of years ago. I renewed both lengths of pipe myself without touching the part which runs over the top of the fuel tank.
You ask how "hard" the job is. The answer depends upon your experience, patience, available time and whether you mind investing in a flaring tool. Here's the guide I wrote which might help you make up your mind. The most frustrating part for me was not bleeding the brakes afterwards, it was removing the rusted and seized unions at the forward bracket. Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
|
|