brake fade

monty1 · 23rd May 2017, 11:10

wow brake fade, doing 70 this morning and had to get on the brakes rather sharpish and this thing didnt want to stop, now the pads and discs are of all calipers working ok as ive serviced all the brakes, is this just a case of bleeding the brakes or something else.

brown trouser moment

all advice and suggestions gratefully recieved

Avulon · 23rd May 2017, 12:19

Did the ABS work?

monty1 · 23rd May 2017, 12:40

no mate now you mention it

Avulon · 23rd May 2017, 12:57

Then you either weren't braking hard enough to trigger it or there's something wrong. What can happen is that air in the ABS modulator is allowed into the rest of the circuit when the ABS activates - resulting in the brake pedal going soft. Did the pedal go soft or go to the floor? I'd definitely bleed the brakes then test them getting the ABS to activate a couple of times - and then bleed them again. Make sure the pads aren't glazed as well as this is another possible cause of weak brakes.

T-Cut · 23rd May 2017, 13:00

I very much doubt it was fade. The system is designed to cope with such an event. Sounds like a fluid change and bleed is in order.

TC

monty1 · 23rd May 2017, 13:08

pedal felt normal just seemed to take a age to stop, anyway ill park it up and and sort a fluid change and bleed them, is there a how to anywere

cheers chaps

T-Cut · 23rd May 2017, 15:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by monty1

is there a how to anywere

Google search: https://www.google.co.uk/#q=site:htt...ge+brake+fluid
or see Haynes manual.

Make doubly sure the caliper guide pins and the pistons are perfectly free.
The ABS won't activate unless one or more wheels threatens to lock. I'd say the brake system is faulty somewhere. Also check the vacuum lines and brake servo.

TC

roverbarmy · 23rd May 2017, 16:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by monty1

pedal felt normal just seemed to take a age to stop, anyway ill park it up and and sort a fluid change and bleed them, is there a how to anywere

cheers chaps

How old are the pads? If you have old pads and are a light braker, they get glazed and lose efficiency over the years. My old 214SEI was still on original pads (lightly worn) at 14 years old! My son said it was a death trap and that the brakes frightened him. New pads and a rub over the discs transformed them. Strangely, they always seemed OK to me (never drove a "new" car then) and passed the brake test at MOT.

Avulon · 23rd May 2017, 16:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by monty1

ive serviced all the brakes, is this just a case of bleeding the brakes or something else.

brown trouser moment

all advice and suggestions gratefully recieved

Quote:

Originally Posted by monty1

pedal felt normal just seemed to take a age to stop, anyway ill park it up and and sort a fluid change and bleed them, is there a how to anywere

cheers chaps

Err, not meaning to be rude but how did you manage to service the brakes without bleeding them?

350zwelgje · 23rd May 2017, 16:45

Is it a diesel? If yes, the brake booster gets its vacuum from a pump.
That all is normally fine, but the vacuum line to the EGR solenoid can perish/chave and the vacuum is lost!
Assistance on the 75/ZT is immense that if no vacuum it feels as if no brakes.
Easy to replace this line, I use petrol 4mm hose. And try to root and protect it to avoid this situation. Done this on many 75s....

Rob

23rd May 2017, 11:10	#1
monty1 Avid contributor mg zt-t deisel Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 238 Thanks: 70 Thanked 42 Times in 34 Posts	brake fade wow brake fade, doing 70 this morning and had to get on the brakes rather sharpish and this thing didnt want to stop, now the pads and discs are of all calipers working ok as ive serviced all the brakes, is this just a case of bleeding the brakes or something else. brown trouser moment all advice and suggestions gratefully recieved __________________ This vehicle was the 3,275th ZT-T to run off the production line, out of 8,249 This vehicle was the 222nd ZT-T CDTi + (115) to be made out of 522 This vehicle was the 259th ZT-T in Le Mans green (code: HPD) to be made out of 440 Le Mans green ZT-Ts

23rd May 2017, 12:19	#2
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	Did the ABS work? __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button

23rd May 2017, 12:40	#3
monty1 Avid contributor mg zt-t deisel Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 238 Thanks: 70 Thanked 42 Times in 34 Posts	no mate now you mention it __________________ This vehicle was the 3,275th ZT-T to run off the production line, out of 8,249 This vehicle was the 222nd ZT-T CDTi + (115) to be made out of 522 This vehicle was the 259th ZT-T in Le Mans green (code: HPD) to be made out of 440 Le Mans green ZT-Ts

23rd May 2017, 12:57	#4
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	Then you either weren't braking hard enough to trigger it or there's something wrong. What can happen is that air in the ABS modulator is allowed into the rest of the circuit when the ABS activates - resulting in the brake pedal going soft. Did the pedal go soft or go to the floor? I'd definitely bleed the brakes then test them getting the ABS to activate a couple of times - and then bleed them again. Make sure the pads aren't glazed as well as this is another possible cause of weak brakes. __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button

23rd May 2017, 13:08	#6
monty1 Avid contributor mg zt-t deisel Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 238 Thanks: 70 Thanked 42 Times in 34 Posts	pedal felt normal just seemed to take a age to stop, anyway ill park it up and and sort a fluid change and bleed them, is there a how to anywere cheers chaps __________________ This vehicle was the 3,275th ZT-T to run off the production line, out of 8,249 This vehicle was the 222nd ZT-T CDTi + (115) to be made out of 522 This vehicle was the 259th ZT-T in Le Mans green (code: HPD) to be made out of 440 Le Mans green ZT-Ts

23rd May 2017, 13:00	#5
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,753 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	I very much doubt it was fade. The system is designed to cope with such an event. Sounds like a fluid change and bleed is in order. TC

23rd May 2017, 16:45	#10
350zwelgje Avid contributor 75 KV6 2.5 3x Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Belgium Posts: 249 Thanks: 6 Thanked 34 Times in 33 Posts	Is it a diesel? If yes, the brake booster gets its vacuum from a pump. That all is normally fine, but the vacuum line to the EGR solenoid can perish/chave and the vacuum is lost! Assistance on the 75/ZT is immense that if no vacuum it feels as if no brakes. Easy to replace this line, I use petrol 4mm hose. And try to root and protect it to avoid this situation. Done this on many 75s.... Rob __________________ 75 KV6 2.5 Sterling automatic, 3x 75 CDT (2 manual + automatic), MG ZT 190+, 620i, SD1 2300S, P6 2000SC & TVR 350i