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Old 23rd May 2017, 20:25   #11
Avulon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350zwelgje View Post
Is it a diesel? If yes, the brake booster gets its vacuum from a pump.
That all is normally fine, but the vacuum line to the EGR solenoid can perish/chave and the vacuum is lost!
Assistance on the 75/ZT is immense that if no vacuum it feels as if no brakes.
Easy to replace this line, I use petrol 4mm hose. And try to root and protect it to avoid this situation. Done this on many 75s....

Rob
Usually if vacuum assist is lost then the brake pedal goes solid (or near enough)
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Old 24th May 2017, 08:04   #12
monty1
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Originally Posted by Avulon View Post
Err, not meaning to be rude but how did you manage to service the brakes without bleeding them?
id cleaned them all up without taking the fluid lines off so didnt require bleeding, pads are like new and disks ok, all pistons moved freely, i couldnt find any leaks anywere, ill do the brake fluid change and bleed them.

strange thing at 30 - 40 mph there working fine around 70 plus it did struggle to stop quickly
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Old 24th May 2017, 09:27   #13
Avulon
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If you move the pistons manually it's always advisable to bleed the brakes afterwards and check for leakage.
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Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk)

Where?:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn
Mods/Retrofits:

PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors
To do:
puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button
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Old 24th May 2017, 21:39   #14
Richard1973
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'Fade' can occur in one of two ways.
If the pedal went soft then the brake fluid needs changing due to water in the fluid boiling.
If the pedal was firm but your retardation was poor then the pads are gassing due to the heat produced reducing the friction on the disc.
Assuming you have a correct vacuum on the servo, then it is one of these two things.
Had you used the brakes repeatedly for hard stops or was it a single stop?
If a single stop it is either a brake system issue or as said above glazing on the pads.

The quality of the pads can make a huge difference too. Have you changed the pads yourself? Owned the car long?
Might be worth buying a set of good quality pads if nothing else cures it.

Last edited by Richard1973; 25th May 2017 at 05:14.. Reason: Added a bit.
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Old 26th May 2017, 09:41   #15
monty1
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cars parked up for a couple of weeks as im away working, ill sort it when home.

cheers for the advice and help guys
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This vehicle was the 3,275th ZT-T to run off the production line, out of 8,249
This vehicle was the 222nd ZT-T CDTi + (115) to be made out of 522
This vehicle was the 259th ZT-T in Le Mans green (code: HPD) to be made out of 440 Le Mans green ZT-Ts
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Old 26th May 2017, 10:33   #16
Avulon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monty1 View Post
ive serviced all the brakes,
are you quite sure that you weren't over generous with the coppaslip or brake grease? (but still managed to get it in the right places)
__________________
Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk)

Where?:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn
Mods/Retrofits:

PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors
To do:
puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button
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