Clutches all the way... - Page 5

murphyv310 · 15th April 2017, 08:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by humptynumpty

ok murphy will it do any harm to cut condom part of rover item and leave part that would act as an o ring in rovers lid and just have a condom in fiat container

Of course not. Just make sure there is No little bits of rubber that would get into the cylinder itself, that also goes for grit and other debris...... keep your hands clean and use clean tools.

alanaslan · 15th April 2017, 20:16

I know that I am a sad old Rover driver, sadly for the last few years I have been driving auto box due to my old legs not working too well these days.
When I drove good old manual cars I had a policy of changing clutches at a fair mileage for vehicle they were fitted in my 75s got a new flywheel ( big lump of steel ) none of this modern fancy duel mass rubbish. Friction plate slave cylinder and pressure plate. At this first change she would also get a fluid change. This was done between 120,000 and 125,000 miles. Then around the 250,000 mile mark they got there second slave cylinder, friction plate and pressure plate, flywheel would be checked and as long as within the wear limits it would not be changed. Again I would change the fluid all hoses, pipes and the master cylinder. If I still had the car when the next 130,000 miles came up it would have had another friction plate and slave and pressure plate change.
It is called preventative maintenance. Nothing worse than having a clutch failure it always happened in the middle of nowhere with the caravan on the back, pitch black with the rain bouncing two feet in the air. Being a retired engineer, I have always believed if you look after your car it will look after you. You also get to choose when you do it. Nice sunny day when there is young help about, to do the young man stuff, also all housings and surfaces that are accessible should be cleaned up so you could eat your dinner off them. A clean engine is a looked after engine.

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marinabrian · 27th April 2017, 00:08

The rubber insert in the master cylinder is there simply to seal the cap, and in prefilled master cylinders it is compressed.

What I have done in the past although fiddly is to compress the rubber diaphragm while it is fitted into the cap, then cover the small hole in the reservoir lid with a piece of tape to prevent the diaphragm from decompressing.

Fill the reservoir fully, place a cloth underneath, and refit the cap, then remove the tape from the "breather" hole.

Doing the job this way ensures the minimum amount of fluid is displaced when replacing the cap, while maintaining the maximum level possible in the master reservoir

It may help to remove a small slither of the sound deadening from behind the top of the master, as it can be a little tricky to refit the cap otherwise

Brian

marinabrian · 27th April 2017, 07:45

The rubber cap does not need to be filled, perhaps a misguided attempt by someone to top the master up without removing it in the past

Brian

15th April 2017, 20:16	#42
alanaslan Gets stuck in 75 Tourer Automatic conn, 75 Saloon Automatic Conn, The Monograme Spice Tourer Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Johnstone Posts: 670 Thanks: 57 Thanked 231 Times in 151 Posts	I know that I am a sad old Rover driver, sadly for the last few years I have been driving auto box due to my old legs not working too well these days. When I drove good old manual cars I had a policy of changing clutches at a fair mileage for vehicle they were fitted in my 75s got a new flywheel ( big lump of steel ) none of this modern fancy duel mass rubbish. Friction plate slave cylinder and pressure plate. At this first change she would also get a fluid change. This was done between 120,000 and 125,000 miles. Then around the 250,000 mile mark they got there second slave cylinder, friction plate and pressure plate, flywheel would be checked and as long as within the wear limits it would not be changed. Again I would change the fluid all hoses, pipes and the master cylinder. If I still had the car when the next 130,000 miles came up it would have had another friction plate and slave and pressure plate change. It is called preventative maintenance. Nothing worse than having a clutch failure it always happened in the middle of nowhere with the caravan on the back, pitch black with the rain bouncing two feet in the air. Being a retired engineer, I have always believed if you look after your car it will look after you. You also get to choose when you do it. Nice sunny day when there is young help about, to do the young man stuff, also all housings and surfaces that are accessible should be cleaned up so you could eat your dinner off them. A clean engine is a looked after engine. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

27th April 2017, 00:08	#43
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	The rubber insert in the master cylinder is there simply to seal the cap, and in prefilled master cylinders it is compressed. What I have done in the past although fiddly is to compress the rubber diaphragm while it is fitted into the cap, then cover the small hole in the reservoir lid with a piece of tape to prevent the diaphragm from decompressing. Fill the reservoir fully, place a cloth underneath, and refit the cap, then remove the tape from the "breather" hole. Doing the job this way ensures the minimum amount of fluid is displaced when replacing the cap, while maintaining the maximum level possible in the master reservoir It may help to remove a small slither of the sound deadening from behind the top of the master, as it can be a little tricky to refit the cap otherwise Brian

27th April 2017, 07:45	#44
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	The rubber cap does not need to be filled, perhaps a misguided attempt by someone to top the master up without removing it in the past Brian