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Old 20th April 2017, 22:39   #11
SD1too
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Default Bleeding procedure: diesel

Don,

Here's the official MGR bleeding procedure.

Simon
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Old 20th April 2017, 23:03   #12
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Just to add, I did remove my inline stat when climbing mountains in Summer in Scotland and towing the caravan around. I did not like the rather extreme fluctuation in temperatures from 82 to 104 degrees at times.

Fitted a good OEM stat and the temperatures are stable, both winter and summer..
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Old 21st April 2017, 08:20   #13
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Originally Posted by spyder View Post
I did not like the rather extreme fluctuation in temperatures from 82 to 104 degrees at times.
All well within the normal range. Temperatures around 100C seem to give many owners the frights, but if the cooling system's in good order, it's perfectly OK. 'Normal' is considered to peak around 115C. A diesel towing a load will obviously warm up to higher temperatures than you usually see, but it's perfectly capable of dealing with it. In general terms, the diesel has more cooling capacity than it usually needs. You're simply exploiting it when towing up and down hills. A functional cooling fan and a leak-free/air-free cooling system is all you require.

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Old 21st April 2017, 10:24   #14
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up to the boil over point a diesel will be more efficient the hotter it gets....
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Old 21st April 2017, 10:35   #15
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up to the boil over point a diesel will be more efficient the hotter it gets....
'Hot enough to fry eggs', according to someone in the haulage industry.

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Old 21st April 2017, 11:17   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder View Post
Just to add, I did remove my inline stat when climbing mountains in Summer in Scotland and towing the caravan around. I did not like the rather extreme fluctuation in temperatures from 82 to 104 degrees at times.

Fitted a good OEM stat and the temperatures are stable, both winter and summer..
It is not unusual to remove the thermostat completely in hot climates, indeed my father's 528 BMW run permanently without a thermostat, without any problems, in ambient temperatures up to 42 Celcius in the Summer months.!!! what is important is to use the correct coolant/water mixtures and ensure you have a functioning fan.
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Old 22nd April 2017, 14:04   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder View Post
Just to add, I did remove my inline stat when climbing mountains in Summer in Scotland and towing the caravan around. I did not like the rather extreme fluctuation in temperatures from 82 to 104 degrees at times.

Fitted a good OEM stat and the temperatures are stable, both winter and summer..
So, is this a common "feature" of the inline stat, that it needs a good amount of pressure to get it flowed?

I have used the trick with header tank demounted. But I couldn't get it high enough, so had to undo the little over pressure tube as well.... Well yes,you then have to do it slowly...

Got some air out, but not completely. So things are improved, but not quite good. Have to do it again and properly.
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Old 22nd April 2017, 17:25   #18
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Originally Posted by Don.Hasi View Post
So, is this a common "feature" of the inline stat, that it needs a good amount of pressure to get it flowed?
No, the in-line stat is no more restrictive than any other.

I don't suppose you have access to a Pela vacuum pump?

HowTo: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=41864
A guaranteed air-free system.

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Old 22nd April 2017, 19:24   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grivas View Post
It is not unusual to remove the thermostat completely in hot climates, indeed my father's 528 BMW run permanently without a thermostat, without any problems, in ambient temperatures up to 42 Celcius in the Summer months.!!! what is important is to use the correct coolant/water mixtures and ensure you have a functioning fan.
I used to do this on one or two cars in Africa as well (petrol) with no side effects at all. Certainly would not try it on these motors in the UK though. I was referring to removing the inline stat only, in this case .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don.Hasi View Post
So, is this a common "feature" of the inline stat, that it needs a good amount of pressure to get it flowed?

I have used the trick with header tank demounted. But I couldn't get it high enough, so had to undo the little over pressure tube as well.... Well yes,you then have to do it slowly...

Got some air out, but not completely. So things are improved, but not quite good. Have to do it again and properly.
AS T-cut has often said, the OEM stat fails mainly in the open position, not so sure about the host of inline stats. I know the Toyota one failed and remain closed, with um interesting consequences.

My point was that a good OEM stat works well without the need for an inline stat that could potentially cause other issues.Although they do work, especially in winter.
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Old 22nd April 2017, 21:01   #20
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Don, I had the exact same issue you're describing just last week. The inline stat I had fitted had failed, I've now removed it and the car is running fine again all be it a little bit cooler due to not having the inline stat.

My advice to you, before doing anything else is to remove the inline stat, reconnect the hose and take the car back out on a run. It will not overheat this time.

Good luck
Graham


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