Starts then dies.... - Page 2

SD1too · 26th April 2017, 13:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by anutz

I have a gauge i could use to measure pressure, but am a little apprehensive about getting fuel everywhere.

I can't blame you for that.

Quote:

Will locate a neighbour and ask them to turn the key etc

Good idea. If you still can't hear it, I'm afraid that it might be best to lift the rear seat cushion so that the noise isn't absorbed by the seating material. The pump only 'pulses' when the ignition is switched on.

Simon

anutz · 26th April 2017, 22:42

So,

Back seat off, new swear words invented in the process...

Not a jot out of the pump, ear pressed against the lid and someone turning ignition on, quite as a mouse...

SD1too · 27th April 2017, 07:12

OK Chris. In the passenger footwell fusebox lies the fuel pump relay and fuse. Your 2004 car I would imagine has the later design of fusebox so look at fuse 28.

A better method is to place a multimeter across the fuel pump connector. It's pins 2 (white/purple +ve) and 5 (black -ve). When the ignition is switched on look for a pulse of voltage lasting only a second or two. When you turn the starter look for stable battery voltage (probably a little below 12v).

Simon

anutz · 27th April 2017, 07:29

ok, that sounds like a logical next step, will go check for a voltage now with my avo

anutz · 27th April 2017, 07:47

fuse 28 is fine, has continuity....

is there a way to test the relay, or next step to test for a voltage across said wires, W/P and B...

trikey · 27th April 2017, 08:15

Dead fuel pump, we have changed a couple lately, must be getting to that age.

anutz · 27th April 2017, 08:15

tested the voltage as noted...

12V for about 1.5 seconds when turning the ignition...

When cranking drops to 9.8V but battery is a little flat....so makes sense...

Still not a chirp of noise from the unit...

SD1too · 27th April 2017, 10:07

Good work Chris. You have proved that the correct electrical supply is reaching the pump so it does indeed look as if your pump has failed.

Simon

anutz · 27th April 2017, 11:27

so....i have found a nice write up on here from someone who did this on a ZT-T

I am just wondering about the safety aspects, of course no whacking things creating sparks, but the fuel tank is 1/4 full and i am on an incline.

I will probably have a look at un-screwing it later today, but not doing any more, as i need to source a pump...

anutz · 28th April 2017, 07:52

Just to confirm, i turned the ignition on today, then off, and then i used a little piece of wood to depress the valve on the fuel lines in the engine bay, nothing at all i.e. no pressure so confirmed its the pump.

Never seen inside it so it would be interesting to see what it actually is i.e. something with the motor i assume.

Thanks for input all

26th April 2017, 22:42	#12
anutz Regular poster MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Durham Posts: 34 Thanks: 2 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	progress... So, Back seat off, new swear words invented in the process... Not a jot out of the pump, ear pressed against the lid and someone turning ignition on, quite as a mouse...

27th April 2017, 07:12	#13
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,344 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	OK Chris. In the passenger footwell fusebox lies the fuel pump relay and fuse. Your 2004 car I would imagine has the later design of fusebox so look at fuse 28. A better method is to place a multimeter across the fuel pump connector. It's pins 2 (white/purple +ve) and 5 (black -ve). When the ignition is switched on look for a pulse of voltage lasting only a second or two. When you turn the starter look for stable battery voltage (probably a little below 12v). Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

27th April 2017, 07:29	#14
anutz Regular poster MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Durham Posts: 34 Thanks: 2 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	testing... ok, that sounds like a logical next step, will go check for a voltage now with my avo Last edited by anutz; 27th April 2017 at 07:34..

27th April 2017, 07:47	#15
anutz Regular poster MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Durham Posts: 34 Thanks: 2 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	results... fuse 28 is fine, has continuity.... is there a way to test the relay, or next step to test for a voltage across said wires, W/P and B...

27th April 2017, 08:15	#16
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,765 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	Dead fuel pump, we have changed a couple lately, must be getting to that age. __________________ Lest we forget..

27th April 2017, 08:15	#17
anutz Regular poster MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Durham Posts: 34 Thanks: 2 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	update tested the voltage as noted... 12V for about 1.5 seconds when turning the ignition... When cranking drops to 9.8V but battery is a little flat....so makes sense... Still not a chirp of noise from the unit...

27th April 2017, 10:07	#18
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,344 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	Good work Chris. You have proved that the correct electrical supply is reaching the pump so it does indeed look as if your pump has failed. Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

27th April 2017, 11:27	#19
anutz Regular poster MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Durham Posts: 34 Thanks: 2 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	next steps... so....i have found a nice write up on here from someone who did this on a ZT-T I am just wondering about the safety aspects, of course no whacking things creating sparks, but the fuel tank is 1/4 full and i am on an incline. I will probably have a look at un-screwing it later today, but not doing any more, as i need to source a pump...

28th April 2017, 07:52	#20
anutz Regular poster MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Durham Posts: 34 Thanks: 2 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	confirmed Just to confirm, i turned the ignition on today, then off, and then i used a little piece of wood to depress the valve on the fuel lines in the engine bay, nothing at all i.e. no pressure so confirmed its the pump. Never seen inside it so it would be interesting to see what it actually is i.e. something with the motor i assume. Thanks for input all