MAF question

petrol · 10th June 2012, 23:19

Last week my diesel 75 developed a problem, it wouldn't start and I noticed that the fuel pump in the engine bay wasn't running, a quick tap and it fired into life but when I drove the car it kept kangarooing up the road under 2Krpm, initially I thought it to be a fuel pressure problem assuming that the in tank pump had died (it had). I spoke to a local rover specialist (lates600, couldn't recommend this friendly helpful chap enough) and he said to unplug the MAF, its worked a treat and the car drives great again, no more kangrooing or cutting out. I will replace the in tank pump this week but I am not sure what to do with the MAF as I understand you cannot get this part any more? Does everyone just replace it with one of those synergy boxes? I am trying the weigh up what my options are because having to replace the pump, void bushes and MAF all in the same month is a real financial hit! I am not necessary trying to go for the cheapest option but the most cost effective in the long term.
Also, as a side question, which is far less important, I notice that in front of the battery there is what I believe to be a heater (webasto?) but I have no idea how to use it, the car takes about 8 miles to get warm in the winter?
Thanks in advance!

Unclefista · 10th June 2012, 23:28

MAF sensors are readily available, cheap ones are not worth buying, you may as well leave it unplugged rather than buy an Ebay one.

For a decent one you'll need a Bosch item, available from Eurocarparts (minus the 25% club discount) or for a couple of quid cheaper from carparts4less (ECPs budget site).

You won't have any problems if you unplug it until your money situation is a bit better.

For the fuel pumps MKON seem to be cheap enough, although if you buy from Jules on here you'll get the whole pump rather than just the insert.

For your FBH (fuel burning heater) have a look through Harry's excellent thread that will tell you all you need to know.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...hread.php?p=68

wuzerk · 11th June 2012, 09:49

As I know from experience you can drive for as long as you like with the MAF unplugged without doing harm. You might do slightly less miles to the gallon but that is all.

Singvogel · 11th June 2012, 16:07

Check all the figures as the Bosch MAF is pricey - it may well be more cost effective in the long run to get a Synergy and the cheaper Pierburg MAF.

Replace the Bosch and the car will be as before. Fit the Synergy kit and the car will be much improved - both power and fuel economy - but perhaps not both at the same time.

I ran with a dicky MAF for ages before getting a Synergy - wish I'd got one years ago!

Check out Ron's website - Tuning Diesels.

Unclefista · 11th June 2012, 16:23

The correct Bosch MAF is £210 from Eurocarparts (£157.50 with discount), or £154.80 from carparts4less. Same company.

Not cheap, which is why I'm running with mine unplugged at the moment (and have been for months

).

petrol · 11th June 2012, 22:15

Thanks for the advice all, someone had told me that you could no longer get the MAFs, I think that a Synergy box might be a better investment because if it decreases fuel consumption it will pay for itself in no time (although I know I will end up turning up to maximum torque and spending a fortune!)

blacknwhite · 11th June 2012, 22:22

I had my MAF disconnected for a year. I recently fitted a second hand MAF off a member and to be honest I cannot see any difference in performance or MPG.

It also sounds like you need to do the inline thermostat mod if it's taking a while to get upto temp.

petrol · 11th June 2012, 22:54

To be honest my fuel economy appear to have gone brilliant since disconnecting the maf, but I think that has more to do with the fact that I took the EGR valve off and cleaned it (it was 80-90% full of black goo) used to get 28 MPG round town, now getting 35ish (not had time for a proper brim to brim test yet). I have noticed the engine is noisier at idle with no MAF though, and less smooth.

crofts · 12th June 2012, 02:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by petrol

Last week my diesel 75 developed a problem, it wouldn't start and I noticed that the fuel pump in the engine bay wasn't running, a quick tap and it fired into life but when I drove the car it kept kangarooing up the road under 2Krpm, initially I thought it to be a fuel pressure problem assuming that the in tank pump had died (it had). I spoke to a local rover specialist (lates600, couldn't recommend this friendly helpful chap enough) and he said to unplug the MAF, its worked a treat and the car drives great again, no more kangrooing or cutting out. I will replace the in tank pump this week but I am not sure what to do with the MAF as I understand you cannot get this part any more? Does everyone just replace it with one of those synergy boxes? I am trying the weigh up what my options are because having to replace the pump, void bushes and MAF all in the same month is a real financial hit! I am not necessary trying to go for the cheapest option but the most cost effective in the long term.
Also, as a side question, which is far less important, I notice that in front of the battery there is what I believe to be a heater (webasto?) but I have no idea how to use it, the car takes about 8 miles to get warm in the winter?
Thanks in advance!

Your under bonnet pump has been keeping your car going and the fact you had to tap it almost certainly means it is on it's way out too. This is very common. Many of us have not realised that the in tank pump is U/S as the car will run normally with the U/B pump providing (usually) there is over a quarter tank of fuel. However, it knackers the U/B pump fairly quickly. mkon supply an insert for the I/T pump and complete U/B pumps. This is your cheapest option. Complete, genuine I/T pumps are v. expensive

blacknwhite · 12th June 2012, 09:44

PM sent...

10th June 2012, 23:19	#1
petrol Newbie 52 connoisseur se CDT auto Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: coventry Posts: 23 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	MAF question Last week my diesel 75 developed a problem, it wouldn't start and I noticed that the fuel pump in the engine bay wasn't running, a quick tap and it fired into life but when I drove the car it kept kangarooing up the road under 2Krpm, initially I thought it to be a fuel pressure problem assuming that the in tank pump had died (it had). I spoke to a local rover specialist (lates600, couldn't recommend this friendly helpful chap enough) and he said to unplug the MAF, its worked a treat and the car drives great again, no more kangrooing or cutting out. I will replace the in tank pump this week but I am not sure what to do with the MAF as I understand you cannot get this part any more? Does everyone just replace it with one of those synergy boxes? I am trying the weigh up what my options are because having to replace the pump, void bushes and MAF all in the same month is a real financial hit! I am not necessary trying to go for the cheapest option but the most cost effective in the long term. Also, as a side question, which is far less important, I notice that in front of the battery there is what I believe to be a heater (webasto?) but I have no idea how to use it, the car takes about 8 miles to get warm in the winter? Thanks in advance!

10th June 2012, 23:28	#2
Unclefista Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Bradford Posts: 1,478 Thanks: 1 Thanked 14 Times in 8 Posts	MAF sensors are readily available, cheap ones are not worth buying, you may as well leave it unplugged rather than buy an Ebay one. For a decent one you'll need a Bosch item, available from Eurocarparts (minus the 25% club discount) or for a couple of quid cheaper from carparts4less (ECPs budget site). You won't have any problems if you unplug it until your money situation is a bit better. For the fuel pumps MKON seem to be cheap enough, although if you buy from Jules on here you'll get the whole pump rather than just the insert. For your FBH (fuel burning heater) have a look through Harry's excellent thread that will tell you all you need to know. http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...hread.php?p=68 __________________ Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra. Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath. At night the ice-weasels come... http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/6...77671f80_n.jpg Last edited by Unclefista; 11th June 2012 at 10:02..

11th June 2012, 09:49	#3
wuzerk Passed Away Rover 75 CDT 03 auto Conn. SE Join Date: May 2009 Location: London Posts: 2,885 Thanks: 104 Thanked 254 Times in 204 Posts	Maf As I know from experience you can drive for as long as you like with the MAF unplugged without doing harm. You might do slightly less miles to the gallon but that is all.

11th June 2012, 16:23	#5
Unclefista Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Bradford Posts: 1,478 Thanks: 1 Thanked 14 Times in 8 Posts	The correct Bosch MAF is £210 from Eurocarparts (£157.50 with discount), or £154.80 from carparts4less. Same company. Not cheap, which is why I'm running with mine unplugged at the moment (and have been for months ). __________________ Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra. Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath. At night the ice-weasels come... http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/6...77671f80_n.jpg

11th June 2012, 16:07	#4
Singvogel Gets stuck in 75 CDT, 1966 2000TC P6, TD4-M47 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Deepest darkest Aberdeenshire Posts: 626 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Check all the figures as the Bosch MAF is pricey - it may well be more cost effective in the long run to get a Synergy and the cheaper Pierburg MAF. Replace the Bosch and the car will be as before. Fit the Synergy kit and the car will be much improved - both power and fuel economy - but perhaps not both at the same time. I ran with a dicky MAF for ages before getting a Synergy - wish I'd got one years ago! Check out Ron's website - Tuning Diesels.

11th June 2012, 22:15	#6
petrol Newbie 52 connoisseur se CDT auto Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: coventry Posts: 23 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the advice all, someone had told me that you could no longer get the MAFs, I think that a Synergy box might be a better investment because if it decreases fuel consumption it will pay for itself in no time (although I know I will end up turning up to maximum torque and spending a fortune!)

11th June 2012, 22:22	#7
blacknwhite Posted a thing or two Black Rover 75 Connie CDT and Twilight Chromactive ZT Turbo Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne Posts: 1,602 Thanks: 15 Thanked 16 Times in 7 Posts	I had my MAF disconnected for a year. I recently fitted a second hand MAF off a member and to be honest I cannot see any difference in performance or MPG. It also sounds like you need to do the inline thermostat mod if it's taking a while to get upto temp.

11th June 2012, 22:54	#8
petrol Newbie 52 connoisseur se CDT auto Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: coventry Posts: 23 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	To be honest my fuel economy appear to have gone brilliant since disconnecting the maf, but I think that has more to do with the fact that I took the EGR valve off and cleaned it (it was 80-90% full of black goo) used to get 28 MPG round town, now getting 35ish (not had time for a proper brim to brim test yet). I have noticed the engine is noisier at idle with no MAF though, and less smooth.

12th June 2012, 09:44	#10
blacknwhite Posted a thing or two Black Rover 75 Connie CDT and Twilight Chromactive ZT Turbo Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne Posts: 1,602 Thanks: 15 Thanked 16 Times in 7 Posts	PM sent...