04 ZT-T V6 190 Clutch/gearbox issues

MGStephen · 17th April 2012, 11:27

Hi guys, Gramps is having some issues with the ZT-T. It first started when it wouldnt select second or third gear. It still drives fine when it finds the gear. Sometimes it selects them fine, Just drove 6 miles with no issues at all, but it wouldnt find reverse when he got home. Switched the car off and selected reverse and restarted and reversed in.

Am i right in saying its the clutch hydrolics? and not the actual clutch.

Been quoted £1474, for a new dual mass flywheel clutch etc kit, but i dont think its that knowing from the ZS V6's about there Clutch issues.

Any help would be appriciated.

Thanks

Stephen

rover54 · 17th April 2012, 14:41

First thing I would do is check the fluid level in the master cylinder and then bleed the clutch operating system (it is hydraulic) and then report back.

How to bleed the clutch http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...read.php?t=156

As for the price, IMO way over the top unless it is made of Gold.

How do they know it needs a new clutch and flywheel as they would have to strip the car first.

To check it clutch is disengaging, in each gear when driving along, dip the clutch and then slightly increase the revs. If the engine revs freely without any increase in road speed, then the clutch is disengaging.

What it might be is weak syncromesh in 2nd and 3rd. An oil change might help. Does 2nd and 3rd baulk going up the box, down the box or both.

MGStephen · 20th April 2012, 16:25

Quote:

Does 2nd and 3rd baulk going up the box, down the box or both.

It was both, but now since iv had a chance to come online and update its completly undrivable. Level is fine i think. its a little below the neck of the bottle.

There is literally no movement in the car when the clutch is released, When its in gear sometimes it will jerk even though the clutch is pressed in.

Im still 99% sure its the slave cylinder its at fault.

rover54 · 20th April 2012, 18:29

I would go through the process of bleeding the clutch first, it should only take 1/2 hour or so; at least then you will have eliminated air in the hydraulic line.

If the slave cylinder is leaking there wouldn't be any fluid in the master cylinder and you say it is full.

It might be the master cylinder seals that have failed and by pressing the peddle there is insufficient hydraulic pressure being generated by the master cylinder to operate the clutch. How does the peddle feel; has it become easier to push to the floor?

If bleeding the hydraulic line doesn't improve thing, then unfortunately you will need to either get the gearbox out and see what has happened to the clutch and slave cylinder or investigate the master cylinder.

When you say there is literally no movement of the car when the clutch is released; is the car in gear? If you put the car into 2nd or 3rd gear with the engine not running and the clutch peddle depressed (engine disengaged); can you push the car? If you can, then the clutch is releasing. If you cannot, then the clutch is not disengaging fully/dragging.

How I would check to see if the hydraulic line is pressurising is to get somebody to press the peddle to the floor and when peddle is fully depressed I would open the bleed nipple. If oil is forced out under pressure then most probably the master cylinder is OK. (note this test is not full proof as it assumes that the slave cylinder is not leaking too much to prevent the build-up of pressure).

Removing the gearbox is the last thing you should do, because of the cost and time involved and I certainly wouldn't pay the sum qouted.

If you do have to have the gearbox removed, insist that all the components are checked against specification and only replace them if they need replacing. Remember the clutch is not slipping.

RPWC · 20th April 2012, 22:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by rover54

I would go through the process of bleeding the clutch first, it should only take 1/2 hour or so; at least then you will have eliminated air in the hydraulic line.

If the slave cylinder is leaking there wouldn't be any fluid in the master cylinder and you say it is full.

It might be the master cylinder seals that have failed and by pressing the peddle there is insufficient hydraulic pressure being generated by the master cylinder to operate the clutch. How does the peddle feel; has it become easier to push to the floor?

If bleeding the hydraulic line doesn't improve thing, then unfortunately you will need to either get the gearbox out and see what has happened to the clutch and slave cylinder or investigate the master cylinder.

When you say there is literally no movement of the car when the clutch is released; is the car in gear? If you put the car into 2nd or 3rd gear with the engine not running and the clutch peddle depressed (engine disengaged); can you push the car? If you can, then the clutch is releasing. If you cannot, then the clutch is not disengaging fully/dragging.

How I would check to see if the hydraulic line is pressurising is to get somebody to press the peddle to the floor and when peddle is fully depressed I would open the bleed nipple. If oil is forced out under pressure then most probably the master cylinder is OK. (note this test is not full proof as it assumes that the slave cylinder is not leaking too much to prevent the build-up of pressure).

Removing the gearbox is the last thing you should do, because of the cost and time involved and I certainly wouldn't pay the sum qouted.

I agree,I had this job done last year at a cost of £873

MGStephen · 2nd May 2012, 22:14

New clutch put in yesterday! along with Slave Cylinder.

Whilst they were doing it they burst the radiator

. New Rad in FOC.

Drive home it overheat a tad. So i assume it wasnt bled correctly.

Im sure its to be vacume bled, correct??

Other than that its good to have the issue Sorted

DMGRS · 3rd May 2012, 01:25

I hope you didn't pay a daft amount like the previous quote, a clutch should be £100, £60 for the slave and £200 (tops) for labour.

MGStephen · 4th May 2012, 21:27

Not even half of what we were originally quoted

Back in Action!

Running so good now. gramps will be getting the belts, waterpump etc all done at the end of the year.

Should see a Mint Facelift 190 see the roads for a few more years!!

17th April 2012, 11:27	#1
MGStephen Posted a thing or two ZT 190 ZTT 180 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1,486 Thanks: 87 Thanked 146 Times in 101 Posts	04 ZT-T V6 190 Clutch/gearbox issues Hi guys, Gramps is having some issues with the ZT-T. It first started when it wouldnt select second or third gear. It still drives fine when it finds the gear. Sometimes it selects them fine, Just drove 6 miles with no issues at all, but it wouldnt find reverse when he got home. Switched the car off and selected reverse and restarted and reversed in. Am i right in saying its the clutch hydrolics? and not the actual clutch. Been quoted £1474, for a new dual mass flywheel clutch etc kit, but i dont think its that knowing from the ZS V6's about there Clutch issues. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks Stephen __________________ LIFE'S TOO SHORT NOT TO Home to multiple MG and Rover cars. MG5 Exclusive Moonshine ZS 180 Twilight ZT 190 SE Atmosphere ZT-T CDTI Horizon ZT-T 190SE Dark Fantasy 75 Contemporary SE CDTI Tourer Chatsworth 75 Contemporary SE V6 Tourer Passat 3.2 SEL Estate

17th April 2012, 14:41	#2
rover54 Retired rover 75 v6 Auto Conn. SE 54 plate LPG and 2006 Rover 75 v6 Auto LPG , 1.8 r75 Manual Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: London Posts: 3,379 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts	First thing I would do is check the fluid level in the master cylinder and then bleed the clutch operating system (it is hydraulic) and then report back. How to bleed the clutch http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...read.php?t=156 As for the price, IMO way over the top unless it is made of Gold. How do they know it needs a new clutch and flywheel as they would have to strip the car first. To check it clutch is disengaging, in each gear when driving along, dip the clutch and then slightly increase the revs. If the engine revs freely without any increase in road speed, then the clutch is disengaging. What it might be is weak syncromesh in 2nd and 3rd. An oil change might help. Does 2nd and 3rd baulk going up the box, down the box or both. Last edited by rover54; 17th April 2012 at 21:31..

20th April 2012, 18:29	#4
rover54 Retired rover 75 v6 Auto Conn. SE 54 plate LPG and 2006 Rover 75 v6 Auto LPG , 1.8 r75 Manual Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: London Posts: 3,379 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts	I would go through the process of bleeding the clutch first, it should only take 1/2 hour or so; at least then you will have eliminated air in the hydraulic line. If the slave cylinder is leaking there wouldn't be any fluid in the master cylinder and you say it is full. It might be the master cylinder seals that have failed and by pressing the peddle there is insufficient hydraulic pressure being generated by the master cylinder to operate the clutch. How does the peddle feel; has it become easier to push to the floor? If bleeding the hydraulic line doesn't improve thing, then unfortunately you will need to either get the gearbox out and see what has happened to the clutch and slave cylinder or investigate the master cylinder. When you say there is literally no movement of the car when the clutch is released; is the car in gear? If you put the car into 2nd or 3rd gear with the engine not running and the clutch peddle depressed (engine disengaged); can you push the car? If you can, then the clutch is releasing. If you cannot, then the clutch is not disengaging fully/dragging. How I would check to see if the hydraulic line is pressurising is to get somebody to press the peddle to the floor and when peddle is fully depressed I would open the bleed nipple. If oil is forced out under pressure then most probably the master cylinder is OK. (note this test is not full proof as it assumes that the slave cylinder is not leaking too much to prevent the build-up of pressure). Removing the gearbox is the last thing you should do, because of the cost and time involved and I certainly wouldn't pay the sum qouted. If you do have to have the gearbox removed, insist that all the components are checked against specification and only replace them if they need replacing. Remember the clutch is not slipping. Last edited by rover54; 20th April 2012 at 22:37..

2nd May 2012, 22:14	#6
MGStephen Posted a thing or two ZT 190 ZTT 180 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1,486 Thanks: 87 Thanked 146 Times in 101 Posts	New clutch put in yesterday! along with Slave Cylinder. Whilst they were doing it they burst the radiator . New Rad in FOC. Drive home it overheat a tad. So i assume it wasnt bled correctly. Im sure its to be vacume bled, correct?? Other than that its good to have the issue Sorted __________________ LIFE'S TOO SHORT NOT TO Home to multiple MG and Rover cars. MG5 Exclusive Moonshine ZS 180 Twilight ZT 190 SE Atmosphere ZT-T CDTI Horizon ZT-T 190SE Dark Fantasy 75 Contemporary SE CDTI Tourer Chatsworth 75 Contemporary SE V6 Tourer Passat 3.2 SEL Estate

4th May 2012, 21:27	#8
MGStephen Posted a thing or two ZT 190 ZTT 180 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1,486 Thanks: 87 Thanked 146 Times in 101 Posts	Not even half of what we were originally quoted Back in Action! Running so good now. gramps will be getting the belts, waterpump etc all done at the end of the year. Should see a Mint Facelift 190 see the roads for a few more years!! __________________ LIFE'S TOO SHORT NOT TO Home to multiple MG and Rover cars. MG5 Exclusive Moonshine ZS 180 Twilight ZT 190 SE Atmosphere ZT-T CDTI Horizon ZT-T 190SE Dark Fantasy 75 Contemporary SE CDTI Tourer Chatsworth 75 Contemporary SE V6 Tourer Passat 3.2 SEL Estate

3rd May 2012, 01:25	#7
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	I hope you didn't pay a daft amount like the previous quote, a clutch should be £100, £60 for the slave and £200 (tops) for labour.