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Old 2nd February 2010, 09:12   #1
PJCarr
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Default Rover 75 Fuel Pump (Petrol)

I have been told by a roadside engineer from Green Flag that the fuel pump in my Rover 75 (2 litre Petrol) is not working. Does anyone know if this is likely and is it a DIY job or one for the local garage?
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Old 2nd February 2010, 09:27   #2
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Welcome to the club! I would strongly suggest going out, turning on the ignition and listening very carefully ....if you hear a humming coming from the back seat area, your pump IS working but your fuel filter may well have disassembled itself...the fuel filter has two halves that screw together but over time they can unscrew...mine has just done it after 78000 miles! It will stop the fuel reaching your engine. There is a modification for this which is known as 'The fabled Orange Clip' but you can ensure it does not come undone again just with a small self-tapping screw. There is a 'How-to' for repairing this...it is a simple 1/2 hour job....although you will have to subscribe to access it...a bargain if you can fix it for a tenner!

Last edited by Zeb; 2nd February 2010 at 09:40..
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Old 2nd February 2010, 13:47   #3
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i agree with what zeb said above, i have a 2.0 v6 and my breakdown people said it was the fuel pump, when it was the fuel filter module had just come apart, all i needed was the the ornage clip and hey presto it all worked, i was a complete novice at car diy but i did it my self!!!

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Old 2nd February 2010, 20:08   #4
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What is the problem that resulted in the pump diagnosis?
Petrol pumps very rarely give problems. Many are changed ritualistically to attempt solve starting issues, when the true cause is FFS. Few garages are even aware of it.

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Old 2nd February 2010, 20:55   #5
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The Green Flag engineer undone a pipe connector that should carry petrol to the engine and could not get any fuel
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Old 2nd February 2010, 20:57   #6
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What is FSS
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Old 2nd February 2010, 23:08   #7
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FFS is Fuel Filter syndrome, its when the fuel fillter midule seperates. The module is two large plastic cups that screw together at the middle, inside is the fiel filter, when they become lose, which they often do, there is a drop is fuel pressure and thus the car will not start, all garages say it is the fuel pump, when all you actually need to do, is screw the module back together, add the orange clip and problem sorted.

When green flag came out to mine they could not get fuel from a fuel line under the bonnet that is due to lose in pressure, trust in the advice on here, it will most likely be the fuel module, where are you loacted some one may assist!!

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Old 3rd February 2010, 10:59   #8
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All owners of the petrol models should familiarise themselves with FFS and the FOC. These terms are now engrained in the forum lingo and there's reams of info to read if you do an Advanced Search for "FFS" and "FOC" (include the quotes).

These are useful:

The Fuel Filter Module: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=40717

Removing rear seat: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ead.php?t=9068

The FOC - Part Number and price (may be more now):http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=40717

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Old 8th February 2010, 10:37   #9
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Over the weekend we checked out the filter and could not find a fault, then a neighbour suggested it may be the fuel cut out switch. I reset and the car started immediately, got up the morning started first time, drove about 2 miles stopped and parked. Now I am back where I started turning over but not firing, tried the reset again but to no avail.

Any ideas?
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Old 8th February 2010, 10:46   #10
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Did you partially unscrew the filter and then re tighten? Also the sealing ring needs to be seated correctly to prevent air entering the system. Often the case that the filter has been addressed but the sealing ring introduces a new problem. Both RAC and AA have a crib sheet for this issue as it is the most common cause of fuel starvation in petrol models.
Could possibly be the internal sealing rings as well.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ead.php?t=9108

Other issues could include CAM and or Crank sensor failure. Needs to be on T4 to diagnose unless you are prepared to swap them out.
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