Handbrake

[rgtly]

Ok... so after my MOT failure woes with LED sidelights incorrect colour and handbrake efficiency below requirements she now has a valid MOT but.... the chap said it only just squeaked through on the handbrake despite adjustment. He said that although it was now ok it was only just ok with readings of 100 N/S and over 200 O/S (I don't understand what the numbers mean but they are obviously different!!! :D)

So does anyone know what the problem may be to cause O/S and N/S readings to be different? Mechanic that adjusted the cable said the brake shoes look fine so does it look like I may need a replacement cable? And if so does anyone know how much this might cost?

Thank you

[Unclefista]

The cables will be fine, to stretch them you'd need to put inhuman pressure on the handbrake, they're pretty beefy.

If your handbrake uses more than 3 clicks, the compensator will probably need replacing. Once this is done, your lever will only move 3-4 clicks.

When this has been done, you can loosen the adjuster nut under the lever, then adjust the handbrake at the hub until it's "just" catching, then release a click or two until it no longer binds.

Then tighten the adjuster nut under the handbrake lever until the handbrake starts to work on the first click.

Your handbrake should then be excellent, mine is, from 5-6 clicks and hardly holding, to leaving black lines if I pull it on 3 clicks while at low speed :)

Search for "handbrake compensator" Arctic and HarryM1BYT do them on an exchange basis.

[rgtly]

The cables will be fine, to stretch them you'd need to put inhuman pressure on the handbrake, they're pretty beefy.

If your handbrake uses more than 3 clicks, the compensator will probably need replacing. Once this is done, your lever will only move 3-4 clicks.

When this has been done, you can loosen the adjuster nut under the lever, then adjust the handbrake at the hub until it's "just" catching, then release a click or two until it no longer binds.

Then tighten the adjuster nut under the handbrake lever until the handbrake starts to work on the first click.

Your handbrake should then be excellent, mine is, from 5-6 clicks and hardly holding, to leaving black lines if I pull it on 3 clicks while at low speed :)

Search for "handbrake compensator" Arctic and HarryM1BYT do them on an exchange basis.

Thanks but I am not sure how many "clicks" it takes! It has just been adjusted and the handle hardly moves at all now to apply the brake (so much so that I thought they may fail me for having it too tight!!).

So, to ask a dumb girlie question, how do I count the clicks? Just apply the lever without depressing the button? God I sound like a right divvy asking that out loud :D

Also would the compensator explain the different readings for N/S vs O/S?

Thanks

[HarryM1BYT]

Thanks but I am not sure how many "clicks" it takes! It has just been adjusted and the handle hardly moves at all now to apply the brake (so much so that I thought they may fail me for having it too tight!!).

So, to ask a dumb girlie question, how do I count the clicks? Just apply the lever without depressing the button? God I sound like a right divvy asking that out loud :D

Also would the compensator explain the different readings for N/S vs O/S?

Thanks

There is no 'too tight', only so tight that you cannot freely turn the wheels when it is released.

The clicks are the number of clicks the handbrake lever makes as you apply it, if you do not press the button.

Off - both wheels should be free to rotate, with no drag. On the first click the handbrake should be having an effect.

The N/S - O/S differences could be due to the adjustment between the two hubs being beyond the range of the compensator to compensate for. The idea of the compensator is to allow for a small amount of misadjustment at the hub, but still allow the brake to apply the same force on each. Equally, it could mean one of the drums/ shoes sets has an issue. A modified compensator will not help with that.

Keep in mind when adjusting the nut under the lever, that it should not be tightened much beyond it showing 25mm of thread. Beyond that, you risk jamming the adjuster and wasting hours trying to sort it out.

[COLVERT]

Also the difference could simply be the condition of the inside of the drums. The hand brake should be applied lightly now and then whilst moving to keep the inside of the drums in good condition. ( 100 yards would do ).

Or as Harry says 'out of balance' so the adjustment of the shoes should be checked by turning the adjuster in each drum through the hole at the front. But fiddly if not done before. ;)

[WillyHeckaslike]

:iagree::wss: But only apply the HB lightly at low speed when it is safe to do so.

[rgtly]

Thanks all. It is starting to sound a bit too complicated for me to investigate so think I will add it to the list to action at the next service!! :p:

[damienp]

Thanks all. It is starting to sound a bit too complicated for me to investigate so think I will add it to the list to action at the next service!! :p:

If you can jack a car up and take a wheel off, then there's no reason whatsoever why you can't sort this yourself - honest.

[Arctic]

Thanks all. It is starting to sound a bit too complicated for me to investigate so think I will add it to the list to action at the next service!! :p:

Hi Rachel
When you have time have a good read of this below as from what you are saying your handbrake as now been adjusted to it's limits so would need the compensator changing.

There is only 5mm between the 25mm and the total limit being used, see pics

http://i39.tinypic.com/dbiko6.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/28iyo43.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/vy5egx.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/25gc7is.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/2r6nsid.jpg

Good reading :D
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=95772

how to fit compensator.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=832764&postcount=15

Arctic. ;)

[HarryM1BYT]

Thanks all. It is starting to sound a bit too complicated for me to investigate so think I will add it to the list to action at the next service!! :p:

Better to do it yourself, with the forums help - then you know it has been done properly. It is neither a complex, nor a difficult task, but it is one garages so often get wrong. Which is why so many of the adjuster nuts are jammed upon the thread.

The most difficult part, is finding the star wheel adjuster through the wheel stud hole for the first time.

[rgtly]

Better to do it yourself, with the forums help - then you know it has been done properly. It is neither a complex, nor a difficult task, but it is one garages so often get wrong. Which is why so many of the adjuster nuts are jammed upon the thread.

The most difficult part, is finding the star wheel adjuster through the wheel stud hole for the first time.

I would love to give it a go but am scared!! Maybe I'll see if my brother can help. 2 heads better than one and all that :D However he may well be going away for a year or so shortly so that may put a halt on that! Unless anyone on here fancies coming and helping a damsel in distress :shrug::}

And thank you Arctic for that info. It still looks like a scary job though!

Oh....I did check the "clicks" today and counted 4. Sound ok??

[Arctic]

I would love to give it a go but am scared!! Maybe I'll see if my brother can help. 2 heads better than one and all that :D However he may well be going away for a year or so shortly so that may put a halt on that! Unless anyone on here fancies coming and helping a damsel in distress :shrug::}

And thank you Arctic for that info. It still looks like a scary job though!

Oh....I did check the "clicks" today and counted 4. Sound ok??

Ahh but are those 4 clicks the last on the adjustment thread sounds like it to me from your first post, can the mechnic not fit it for you if i an sure you and you bro should be able to fit this compensator fairly straight forward honest if i was closer i would fit it for you in 25 mins is there no close member hom can help you Arctic.