bleed nipple torque

[monkey41]

hi. I have just replaced the rear discs and pads on my zt CDTi but on all the instructions I could find, they mention a torque setting of 5NM on the bleed nipples. Can I ask how this is to be achieved. I am a novice, but I could not see a way of getting a torque wreng on it whicle the bleed tube is still attached. Is there such a thing as a torque spanner?

[VMax1000]

No need for a torque wrench, small spanner and common sense is a far better way when it comes to bleed nipples.

Anyway, 5Nm is handtight plus about 1/16 of a turn

[Mike Noc]

There are crow's foot spanners which can be attached to the end of a torque wrench and can be used with the bleed hose attached.

You can of course lightly nip it closed, remove the bleed hose then torque it. Or torque a nut and bolt down in a vice to get the feel of 5NM with the wrench - it really is very little, then do it by feel.

For other applications where you can't get a socket on due to access try cutting an old socket down with a grinder. The larger socket is for spanners:

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h415/MikeNoc/2012-10-01-447_zps7a7cad1e.jpg

(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h415/MikeNoc/2012-10-01-447_zps7a7cad1e.jpg)

Mike

[mh007]

As said by VMax1000, absolutely no need to torque.

Just pinch it up tight but don't overtighten.

You'll soon know if it's not tight enough as it'll leak when you apply brake pressure.

Out of curiosity, why would you want to touch the hydraulics if you are just replacing the discs & pads ?

[monkey41]

i read that best practice is to take up the slack of excess fluid through the bleed nipple rather than through the ABS modulator and master cylinder when pushing the pistons in to accomodate the new pads. It made good sense, so as i tensioned my home made caliper spreader, I cracked open the nipple. I nipped it back up just as the piston reached home. Just could never understand why a torque was quoted if it could not be easily achieved. I thought it went well, hardest part was actually jacking up to get stands underneath.

[suffolk boy]

i read that best practice is to take up the slack of excess fluid through the bleed nipple rather than through the ABS modulator and master cylinder when pushing the pistons in to accomodate the new pads. It made good sense, so as i tensioned my home made caliper spreader, I cracked open the nipple. I nipped it back up just as the piston reached home. Just could never understand why a torque was quoted if it could not be easily achieved. I thought it went well, hardest part was actually jacking up to get stands underneath.
it might be good practice but i have never done it and never will.it is just in case by pushing back the piston by hand you create enough pressure to flip the seals in the cylinder.which will then cause a leak.it suggests this in the haynes manual.in future use the manaul under the jack where it will be of much more use.