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HarryM1BYT
13th October 2012, 20:00
Yesterday I came across a method of using steel/ SS/ galv wire, as a hose clamp instead of Jubilee type clips, which I have not seen before. I have have, however used wire by taking a couple of turns around, then twisting up the ends.

This alterntive method uses a special tool for the job - you fold the wire in half, wind a turn or two round the hose, pass it through the loop in the wire, the tool then pulls on the loose ends to tighten it, before folding the loose ends over and sniping the surplus wire off.

There is not much to the tool, so I was thinking of cloning one, but I'm just inviting some opinion.

A Google of Clamptite will reveal the idea.

munroman
13th October 2012, 21:31
I used to work for a hose maker, and by far and away the best type of clips to use are 'Constant Pressure' ones, just like Rover used.

I would have a couple of concerns about this type of clamping for hoses, other than the obvious one that the clamping pressure will vary as the hose and spigot expand/contract and the hose 'compression sets' with age, the clamping area is very small, and how do you fit it when there are various components in the way when you are trying to turn it to tighten it?

I'm oot....... :)

cargocar
13th October 2012, 22:04
I think it would be more suited to clamping non-circular shapes - ie 2 pieces of wood or logs - its one of those gadgets where you look for something to make which involves using it.

Scribbler.
14th October 2012, 00:49
:) Can't say I would risk this method as the `contact area' is A limited and B rather like the back of a knife blade. Like tyres on a road surface the greater the area of contact the better from an engineering point of view. :shrug: Mike.

rover54
14th October 2012, 02:07
Looks good for ball joint and CV joint boots. Tool can easily be knocked up and suitable wire sort. Can see it being of use on a Sunday afternoon when the local motor factor is shut and you need a hose clip to get you going. Long term I would replace it with one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pack-Zinc-Plated-Mini-Jubilee-Fuel-Hose-Line-Pipe-Clips-Classic-Rubber-Clamps-/270892981159?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item3f127adba7. IMO the best type of clamp.

HarryM1BYT
14th October 2012, 08:11
Looks good for ball joint and CV joint boots. Tool can easily be knocked up and suitable wire sort. Can see it being of use on a Sunday afternoon when the local motor factor is shut and you need a hose clip to get you going. Long term I would replace it with one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pack-Zinc-Plated-Mini-Jubilee-Fuel-Hose-Line-Pipe-Clips-Classic-Rubber-Clamps-/270892981159?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item3f127adba7. IMO the best type of clamp.

The problem or issues I've found with the worm drive Jubilee is that they tend to pucker the pipe under the screw part and the smaller the pipe, the more the pucker becomes a problem.

The other type in the Ebay ad above, which uses a screw & nut, with an overlapping metal band, is much better for the smaller sizes.

The big advantage of the wire method seems to be that is clamps with much more even pressure all the way round, but as you suggest, it uses a much higher point loading which will tend to cut into the pipe being clamped.

I have one particular job in mind for this, a hose for a compressor which has so far defied all of my attempts to get a good seal using both of the above clamps and a twisted wire binding.

alanw
14th October 2012, 08:47
I'm with Munroman but they are very size sensitive. The only place I can get the different sizes around here is a breakers oem. Alan

HarryM1BYT
14th October 2012, 13:16
I just had to have a play :D

I only had a mini-lathe and the usual tools to work with, so it was just a fairly rough mock up.

Biggest problem was making the tube section with slot either side and that his the roughest part. The only way I could find to cut the slots was to clamp the part (some thin wall tube) in the tool holder, put a drill bit in the chuck, drill a hole through the tube, then roughly mill the slots either side by moving the tool holder against the drill - of course it tended to go off centre and turn into a rough spiral.

For the means of tightening the wire I used a bit of 8mm rod with a hole drilled through to suit the pin. The 'nose' piece I made from brass, cone shaped with a notch cut across the end so it would hook onto the wire centre fold. The rounded nose turned out to be an hinderance to making the nose stay on the wire, so I ended up filiing it flat.

My first test was on my compressor hose, where the flexible hose went onto a air union, which has given me endless leakage problems for months. I have tried Jubilee clamps, various other clamps all of which failed to seal, with the best solution so far being to wrap a couple of turns of galv wire round and twist it to tighten it hoping the twisting didn't snap the wire.

Using the cloned tool, I remade the air union and it worked first time. It pulled the wire much tigher than I had previously managed by twisting the wire.

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq276/harrym1byt/CTClone1.jpg


http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq276/harrym1byt/CTClone2.jpg

Managed to get an overlap in the wire, but it worked.

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq276/harrym1byt/CTClone3.jpg

mikesmith2
14th October 2012, 13:19
Good job Harry.

T-Cut
14th October 2012, 16:00
Certainly ideal for lawnmowers, but I don't think it's appropriate for car engine hoses and the like. Interesting gadget though for on the spot fuel hose, etc clamping.

TC

HarryM1BYT
14th October 2012, 16:19
The tension is certainly there, I think the only issue might be the thin wire cutting into a hose and adding a thin strip of metal might resolve that. It needs more experiment....

It also needs at least enough room to rotate the tool axially around the hose 90 deg, to lock it off once it is tight. Its a matter of hooking the wire onto the tool, tightening it up with the nut, then once tight rotating the entire tool (including wire) 90 deg to lock it. Once locked, you can ease the tension on the nut, remove the tool, then bend the wire ends over after sniping them.

Unclefista
26th October 2012, 15:46
I was bench testing a FBH this weekend and the fuel hoses were leaking at the joints, annoying as I'd bought the clips for the job.
So me and my brother spent an hour making a tool from bits we had hanging about.

The joints made with it are fuel tight now, much better than jubilee clips.

The tool is a bit of a bodge job, but the MK2 will be much better :)

I'll post a couple of pics later.

Good spot Harry, it's something I'll always have in my toolbag now.

HarryM1BYT
26th October 2012, 15:51
I'll post a couple of pics later.

Good spot Harry, it's something I'll always have in my toolbag now.

Yes, they work much better than you would expect them to work, when compared to just wrapping wire round and twist tightening wires up.

I've already made a more robust/ tidier Mk II.

rover54
26th October 2012, 16:45
It might work but it does look messy. I think I would prefer these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mikalor-Steel-SPRING-BAND-TYPE-Fuel-Line-Hose-Clips-Silicone-Air-Vac-Pipe-Clamps-/251107633584?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item3a772e69b0 than the Clamptite wire system. For normal hose joints I use nut and bolt type clamps. Amazing how much pressure can be applied to the hose joint and the look the part.

Unclefista
26th October 2012, 16:55
With the wire, one size fits all ;)

For a temporary solution, or emergency the wire is more than sufficient IMHO, but for a permanent fix I'd use proper clamps.

Mine now lives in the boot in case of emergencies ;)

Unclefista
26th October 2012, 18:16
Here are a couple of pictures, I didn't have any 5mm fuel hose (that it was made to do) to use it on for the photos.
The wire is thin stuff, perfect for the 5mm fuel hose but too thin for anything much bigger.
MKII will be bigger and stronger :)

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-68MVTs2SjtY/UIrRoOPNwFI/AAAAAAAAMM0/DjnZfnSxfJk/s627/IMAG0226.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nHbI_NU30zU/UIrRoIFILII/AAAAAAAAMM0/eDHi9af-Ogc/s627/IMAG0225.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6LgT-kFghcY/UIrRoEyC6gI/AAAAAAAAMM0/FUwmXe-KctM/s627/IMAG0227.jpg

It's perfect for securing exhaust wrap.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qC5fv6fxdt4/UIrOVB56IvI/AAAAAAAAMLI/nOmusUeWMHU/s771/IMAG0220.jpg

And lastly my FBH benchtest ;)

66aU2l7hrao

HarryM1BYT
26th October 2012, 19:12
Here are a couple of pictures, I didn't have any 5mm fuel hose (that it was made to do) to use it on for the photos.
The wire is thin stuff, perfect for the 5mm fuel hose but too thin for anything much bigger.
MKII will be bigger and stronger :)

I didn't bother with the lower peg or pin. It is supposed to be hollow, a tube, so you can insert one end of the wire. The idea of that is so you can do a single wire wrap, rather than the double.

I am already onto the Mk II. I've redone the body with some thicker tube and improve the slot in it (to make it at least straight :D) and swapped the nut for a wing nut.

HarryM1BYT
4th November 2012, 10:48
I've made a useful improvement to mine, by drilling two 2mm holes through the pin which tensions the wire, either side of the main body and at right angles to the body. Instead of wrapping the wire round the pin, which tends to not grip the wire that well - I just push the loose ends through the holes bend up and then no more slip as you tension.

It really is such a brilliantly simple gadget :D