Water pump query K series

[ballymenaman]

Just about to order a timing belt and tensioner for my newly acquired 75 1.8T. Car has 40k on clock. I'm just wondering if I should replace the water pump at the same time as a precaution? No sign of failure at all. Are they prone to fail with age or is it mileage that does the damage? I have also noticed that there is some coolant loss. There is staining down the pipe running downwards from the plastic 'T' pipe behind the radiator - is this a common leaky point? There is no sign of overheating or HGF by the way.

[sworks]

The plastic T piece is a weak point that can leak and needs looking at. On my own car I changed the cam belt and left the water pump but anybody elses I would reccomend doing at the same time, the belt drives the pump so would need to be removed again if done seperately

[kaiser]

If you are in there already, it is prudent to replace the waterpump, idler and tensioner as well.
That does not guarantee anything, but at least you have done what can be done.
The waterpumps are not good, and premature failures (leaks) are frequent.

[T-Cut]

There is staining down the pipe running downwards from the plastic 'T' pipe behind the radiator - is this a common leaky point?


Do a word search for 'Gerry-T' and you'll find what's being done about this leaky bit.

TC

[mick160]

Just about to order a timing belt and tensioner for my newly acquired 75 1.8T. Car has 40k on clock. I'm just wondering if I should replace the water pump at the same time as a precaution? No sign of failure at all. Are they prone to fail with age or is it mileage that does the damage? I have also noticed that there is some coolant loss. There is staining down the pipe running downwards from the plastic 'T' pipe behind the radiator - is this a common leaky point? There is no sign of overheating or HGF by the way.

I would change the water pump while the timing belt is off. For the sake of 20 to 30 quid and an extra few minutes its not worth leaving it. Plus it has been known for old pumps to fail shortly after a new timing belt has been fitted - don't know why, maybe its the extra tension of a new belt putting a strain on the shaft or maybe its just sods law :shrug:

The T pieces are a known weak point - I just changed mine for a new oe one but a stainless/alloy alternative is better. I think a member is looking into getting some alloy ones made at the moment (I think its yella fella). Also check the hoses to the T piece- after changing my T I noticed the top hose had gone porous and coolant was seeping out once it was up to pressure.

Hope this helps.

[mick160]

Yep, its yella fella. Here's the thread;

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=126954&highlight=gerry

[stevestrat]

When I bought my 75 I was told the timing belt had been done recently but days after getting the car it started losing water, culprit was the water pump which garage replaced FOC. Seems a new timing belt puts a strain on the water pump that it can't handle.

[stugee]

For the sake of £56 for the belt, tensioner and pump I would just go the whole hog

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320909455189?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[pab]

I would definatly change the Water Pump and the belt Tensioner while your in the vacinity. If you can stretch to the extra cost of a genuine Pump, do so.

[ballymenaman]

Thanks folks. Have ordered genuine rover belt, tensioner and W pump for £65. Thought it was reasonable. Will defo consider the alloy 'T'. Thanks for all the help.