A Couple Of Quick Brake Questions!

[MrDoodles]

As a few of you will know, Ed, my 190 ZT passed his MOT last week, but had an advisory of all brake pads low.

Now the brake warning light isn't on yet and I haven't had chance to take the wheels off yet to measure how little meat is left on the pads, (will probably do tomorrow) :)

Now I have two questions; I've got some new pads coming and I seem to remember reading that I'll need a 7 mm allen key to remove the brake pins, is that correct? :shrug:

Also, as the brake warning light hasn't come on yet, do I need to buy new brake sensors as well, or will these remove and re-fit OK? :shrug:

Any help or advise, will be most welcome! :)

[suffolk boy]

7mm is the size for the pins dont buy the lazer 7mm brake allen key tool it fowls the rear shock.get one from a decent tool supply shop.as for the sensors i have changed these over with no problems several times

[MrDoodles]

7mm is the size for the pins dont buy the lazer 7mm brake allen key tool it fowls the rear shock.get one from a decent tool supply shop.as for the sensors i have changed these over with no problems several times

Thanks for your lightning quick reply, 3 minutes after I posted the question! :bowdown:

I was going to buy a 7 mm allen with a 3/8" drive for my smaller socket set, I take it that doesn't present any clearance issues? :shrug:

Will probably do a dry run tomorrow, just to make sure that everything comes un-done, if it doesn't it can then get soaked in Plus Gas over-night! :)

[suffolk boy]

pins should be fine as they are stainless steel you should be ok with the tool mentioned.but as you say check first

[MrDoodles]

pins should be fine as they are stainless steel you should be ok with the tool mentioned.but as you say check first

Yeah, just checked and I'm out of Copper grease as well! :(

Never mind, one tub last's ages! :)

[suffolk boy]

Yeah, just checked and I'm out of Copper grease as well! :(

Never mind, one tub last's ages! :)
got a nearly new tin of that from a car boot for 50p should last a while my old tube lasted nearly fifteen years

[Plezier]

I have recently purchased two 3/8" drive 7mm brake keys. One is 92 mm long the other is 64.7 mm long. This shorter one will get in there I am sure ;).

If you want to borrow it save getting one just shout.

I will be putting it to use either tomorrow or Thursday as I have to go and remove a pair of front calipers for TGB. N/S hub arrived this morning, thanks seancar :} , the new Flexi hoses arrived the other day so with the new to me calipers and the ABS pump we have it all in hand ready to fit.

Oh yes have a nearly new tube of copper ease as well.

[Best_of_British]

I did my rear pads and discs today, and managed to re-use the sensor wire without any problem. As mentioned 7mm hex key for guide pins, that were in excellent condition and 13mm ring spanner for bolts that hold the caliper, if you want to take it off.

[bl52krz]

I just clean the pins with a rag with some diesel /petrol on, then put just the lightest film of rubber brake grease on before putting them back.

[MrDoodles]

I have recently purchased two 3/8" drive 7mm brake keys. One is 92 mm long the other is 64.7 mm long. This shorter one will get in there I am sure ;).

If you want to borrow it save getting one just shout.

That was a very kind offer Kevin, however, I was in Town yesterday and popped in to Halfords to price one up and bought one cheaper last night (inc delivery) from eBay! :)

Plus it would cost you more to bring it over in petrol, than what I've paid for one! :(

Appreciate the offer though! :)

[Plezier]

Not a problem.. The chap I ma getting my bits from wa sout today so mine is still "virgin" will try phoning him later to make arrangements to go and get the calipers and ABS pump.

I paid £8.49 including postage for the two 7mm keys:-

BMW 3 SERIES E36 7mm BRAKE CALIPER HEX KEY

As I said two lengths so handy.

It will next week now probably before I can mine sorted out and it all fitted now.

[MrDoodles]

I still haven't had chance to do this (due to the weather) but have just read the "How to" pdf and it states that I have to undo the bleed nipple in order to push the pistons back in the caliper! :(

Now the last car I fitted brake pads to, was a 1600E about 30 years ago and I pushed the pistons back in without undoing the bleed nipple as the brake fluid went straight back up to the master cylinder! ;)

So is that a recommendation, or a necessity, as I realise that brake systems have come on a bit since then? :shrug:

[Bigcul1]

Never have removed the brake nipple fella me lad. Just levered the piston back with a long chisel or something of the same irk.

Only thing I would recommend is some good brake cleaner and if doing the discs a new torx screw.

:)

[MrDoodles]

Never have removed the brake nipple fella me lad. Just levered the piston back with a long chisel or something of the same irk.

Only thing I would recommend is some good brake cleaner and if doing the discs a new torx screw.

:)

Fantastic, just the answer I was looking for! :)

I was worried that I'd do some damage by doing it! :(

[cargocar]

The overflow is caused by the master cylinder being topped up when the brake pads/shoes were worn, so pushing the caliper back ejects the extra fluid that has been added to the master cylinder. As a piece-of-mind precaution a cloth/kitchen towel (which is very absorbant) around the master cylinder on the bulk head, this will catch any overflow.

[MrDoodles]

The overflow is caused by the master cylinder being topped up when the brake pads/shoes were worn, so pushing the caliper back ejects the extra fluid that has been added to the master cylinder. As a piece-of-mind precaution a cloth/kitchen towel (which is very absorbant) around the master cylinder on the bulk head, this will catch any overflow.

Thanks, I always take the top off the Master cylinder when doing this and surround it with rags when doing this and haven't had a problem before, it was just that I hadn't done it recently and just wanted to make sure that I wasn't going to damage anything by doing it! :)

[MrDoodles]

Well managed to get the fronts done today! :)

Took slightly longer than I expected as;

1) The wheel nuts had obviously been done up with air gun and I thought at one stage that the locking wheel nut key was going to round off! :(

(Managed to get them off eventually)

and

2) Had to remove the carriers to get the pads out, so gave them a good clean on the bench, before popping them back on.

Also found no trace on copper grease on either the old pads, or the carrier, so the last pads had obviously been fitted by a main dealer! :(

The pads were all down to about 4 mm of friction material, so at least I know that everything is working as it should! :)

Just need a dry day tomorrow to do the rear's! :)

[MrDoodles]

All done now and the rears took a lot less time to do, as I didn't need to remove the carriers! :)

So, calipers cleaned, everything copper greased and wheels back on and torque'd up properly with a torque wrench! :)

Nice sense of satisfaction of a job done properly and saved myself about £100 in Labour costs in the process! :)

Must remember to re-torque the wheel nuts in 100 miles, thankfully, it will coincide with Ed hitting 85,000 miles! ;)

[Plezier]

I need to get a good day to put TGB up on stands and clean off the brake calipers ready for the change over and ftiting the bits to the front to cure this ABS fault. Lately ever clear and fine day has been taken up with other duties :(.

Did finally manage to grab a bit of time to get the side lights swapped over this morning.

Tomorrow is more junk and rubbish clearing with trips to the tip. Seems busy this time of year and on Monday we had to queue to unload then get out :(

Mind you in the clear out I found some e-bay fodder plus some interesting old car/bike bits like the rocker box for a 47 Triumph 5T.

[MrDoodles]

Well just to give a quick up-date on this, Ed has now done nearly 300 miles since I put the new pads in and the wheel nuts were re-torqued last week.

As for the "cheap" Mintex pads that I bought off eBay, as I posted on another thread, they arrived in Hologram sealed Mintex boxes, so I'm quite happy that they are the genuine article.

Everything has now bedded in, brake feel is much the same as original OE pads that came out, with no squealing at all on application.

Only thing that I have noticed, is that they appear to be producing LESS brake dust on the alloys, than the OE pads, which to be fair, does surprise me, as in the past I've always found that they normally produce more dust until they are bedded in.

Hope that's of interest to someone! :xmas-smiley-031: