Think my rear drivers side brake is sticking

[Kevmc75]

If car has been resting for a while...example over night, when i get in to drive away. i put handbrake down{off} i sometimes hear a kind of little squeek coming from the rear drivers side wheel, as if handbrake didnt release fully on the one wheel...
Is this a common poblem? is there an easy fix? Or does anyone know what the story is?

[Simon.h]

Hi,
One side of mine handbrake always sticks on after a overnight stop, if car is not used for a day or so then it takes 2 trys to pull away to free it.

[438brad]

I have the same issue although it has turned out to be a sticking caliper rather than the handbrake. New caliper going on this week.:)

[COLVERT]

Hi,
One side of mine handbrake always sticks on after a overnight stop, if car is not used for a day or so then it takes 2 trys to pull away to free it.

To cure the squeek, now and then while driving along, apply the handbrake gently for a second or two.

Gets rid of the film of rust which has formed on the inside of the drum and which makes the shoes stick on.





Colvert. :D

[RPWC]

It could be that one of the handbrake shoes has come off. They are held on the backplate by a small pin. If the backplate is a bit rusty, this pin can pull through the hole in the backplate thus causing the shoe to drag against the drum. If what Colvert suggested doesn't work,you will need to remove caliper and disc,to have a look . If you need to do this come back and we will tell you how to do it ,if necessary

[Kevmc75]

Cheers guys will check it out tonight.

[doru228]

It could be that one of the handbrake shoes has come off. They are held on the backplate by a small pin. If the backplate is a bit rusty, this pin can pull through the hole in the backplate thus causing the shoe to drag against the drum. If what Colvert suggested doesn't work,you will need to remove caliper and disc,to have a look . If you need to do this come back and we will tell you how to do it ,if necessary

I have that problem, how do i refit them back? I ordered the bolts and springs and will do it next week. Any risk of the wheel to get stuck ?

[David Lawrence]

I have that problem, how do i refit them back? I ordered the bolts and springs and will do it next week. Any risk of the wheel to get stuck ?

Not much chance of the wheel getting stuck, the broken pins are very thin and will probably break up, if they don't you'll just get a squealing noise and a lot of rattling. Take the drum off and you'll see how it all goes back together, plenty of solutions on offer on another thread, bolts, self tappers and spire nuts, or hold down springs and pins, all described there. Take your choice.

[DaveyC]

:confused: The pin on my driver's side rear has done this and periodically I have had a grinding noise at low speeds. Need to get some dry weather to do a fix.

What do I do to get round this issue, other than buying new back plates, etc?

Cheers,

Dave :shrug:

[David Lawrence]

:confused: The pin on my driver's side rear has done this and periodically I have had a grinding noise at low speeds. Need to get some dry weather to do a fix.

What do I do to get round this issue, other than buying new back plates, etc?

Cheers,

Dave :shrug:



Don't think you'll be able to buy new backplates, I've been looking for a while now and none turned up. Apart from a bit of light surface rust the backplates are in pretty good shape, but unfortunately that area of the backplate where the pins go through is quite thin and the pins just worked their way through.

This thread shows a variety of methods of working around it.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=124351&highlight=handbrake+issue

Let us know which option you go with.

Yesterday I replaced my rear hub, and for sure the brakes are a lot easier to work on with the hub out of the way. Think when its a bit warmer I might take the backplates off and weld in a small plate, but the hold down kit seems to be doing the job for now.

[DaveyC]

Don't think you'll be able to buy new backplates, I've been looking for a while now and none turned up. Apart from a bit of light surface rust the backplates are in pretty good shape, but unfortunately that area of the backplate where the pins go through is quite thin and the pins just worked their way through.

This thread shows a variety of methods of working around it.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=124351&highlight=handbrake+issue

Let us know which option you go with.

Yesterday I replaced my rear hub, and for sure the brakes are a lot easier to work on with the hub out of the way. Think when its a bit warmer I might take the backplates off and weld in a small plate, but the hold down kit seems to be doing the job for now.


Cheers for the ebay links in the other thread. I have gone and purchased these and will drop them on when me fingers thaw out........

Dave :bowdown:

[babrat61]

I have just replaced the rear handbrake shoes, discs and pads and fitted the modified compensator as supplied by Arctic from the forum.

Mot passed today and the handbrake is superb. Holds on 1 click on level ground. Holds on 3 clicks while stopped on a 1 in 4!

Few of my experiences that might be helpful to others listed below.

Shoe hold down pins had pulled through the back plate, so I purchased OE set of pins and springs from Rimmers. Don't be tempted to use the DELPHI brand of Brake shoe fitting kit as seen often on Ebay, they are advertised as suitable for Rover 75 and MGZT but some of the items in the kit don't fit.
For instance.
a). 2 off compression springs that fit over the shoe locating pins are too long and therefore do not compress sufficiently.

b). The stouter of the 2 brake shoe tension springs (the one that fits at the bottom of the show is approx. 13mm too long and therefore does not actually tension the shoe.

Delphi Kit number, incidentally is LY1352.
Mintex also seem to use the same supplier of remade parts so be wary of their product too.

To overcome the problem of the shoe hold down pins pulling through the backplate, I fitted a slotted cup washer as per a previous suggestion/post, to the back of the backplate. This then retains the pin successfully.

I did find it necessary to loosen the backplate securing bolts a little, so that I could get my fingers behind to hold this cupped washer whilst pushing on the pin.
I should also point out that working on the Handbrake mechanism is far easier if the wheel hub assy is removed first.