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ScotSilver1987
7th February 2013, 11:58
Hi Chaps,

Well I finally started the timing belt replacement today. I could only manage around 2 hours before I had to head off to work.

In that time I managed to get the left hand covers, Aux Drive Belt & engine mount released/ removed.

A quick question for the community, I've just got to remove the lower cover before exposing the full belt but can anyone drop any tips about markings on the cam shaft pullys?
I.e: Where I should be marking them, etc....?
I haven't got any of the professioal tools but have made some home mades ones which will be suffice.

I have the Haynes Manual and it has proven to be great so far but I am just looking for members experiences on doing the job.



Cheers,

T-Cut
7th February 2013, 15:14
The well played YouTube video may orientate your mind even though it's on the bench and not a ZT engine.

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fFx8SPiTSc

ScotSilver1987
7th February 2013, 15:35
Thanks for the reply T-Cut

RN3212
7th February 2013, 16:12
Mark the pulleys in relation to the back plate.A word of caution-When removing the AC Compressor,only remove the 2 bolts towards the drivers side and just loosen the remaining bolt,as the plate you need to take off is only held by the 2 outer bolts.I removed the 3 bolts and spent ages trying to line up the Compressor bolt holes.

Gary Poulton
7th February 2013, 20:20
I have just done this job on my 2.0 V6, I bought the tools, but didnt do it as the YouTube video shows, I marked the crank and both inlet ams AND the old belt.. then mark the new belt in the same way (i.e. same number of teeth between the marks. Then I put the belt on the front inlet cam, used the tool to rotate the rear cam back into place and fitted the belt, then removed the crank locking pin, turn the crank VERY slightly, anti clockwise to be able to engage the belt to the marks, then turn the crank VERY slightly clockwise, to re-engage the crank locking pin, fit, fit belt over tensioner, release pin on tensioner, remove locking pin, and turn engine over by hand to check ale the marks line up. By doing it like this I did not need to unscrew the bolts hold the pulley wheels on the cams and disturb the factory setting, which I knew was spot on. (this also means you only need 4 new stretch bolts instead of 6.

One note, when refitting everything dont make my stupid mistake of fitting the auxillary belt guide wheel in the wrong hole and spending 3 hours trying to make the belt fit...

Good luck
Gary Poutlon