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View Full Version : Bonnet open switch u/s


flapper
10th February 2013, 11:12
The switch is not working, managed to get it out, good design:mad:you need fingers like E.T. then you have to contend with the cable tied wiring!!
Problem is the light is now on all the time on the dash, the horn sounds every time I try to lock it and it wont let the central locking operated. Can anyone advise how it could be isolated.
using a multimeter on the pins in the plug shows they are live, ive tried bridging them but it does not make any difference.
Is there any way I can fool it into thinking its closed

Fusilier
10th February 2013, 11:52
Have you tried moving the two rubber bonnet stops in a little, so that the bonnet goes down more, if you have then I think you need a new sensor, currently available from rimmers

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YUE100610

Stu

flapper
10th February 2013, 12:47
If the switch is manually pushed down the light still does'nt go out, looks like a nerw one needed. Thanks for the Rimmers link

stocktake
10th February 2013, 12:53
IIRC The switch is push to make, if the switch isn't fitted the light should be out, if the light is still on you have a short ( usually water in the connector) or the harness has rubbed through somewhere :)

capese21
10th February 2013, 13:18
The switch is normally open. Unplug it and nothing should happen. Water in the plug will create a short. Wd40 it and then put some Contralube 770 in to keep the water out.

spyder
10th February 2013, 14:39
I had a problem with the bonnet switch wires chaffing through behind the bonnet catch and shorting out. It involved taking the bumper off and new wires. :mad:

Craig

flapper
10th February 2013, 17:17
A multimeter test between the contacts shows the connector is live although only showing 4.5v
A continuity test on the switch shows its not working.
Strange thing also happening,,, the reversing sensor beeps once when I engage reverse??
Had a + jump lead come adrift and short out as it dragged accoss engine bay, wonder if this caused any issues?

Have to go around and manually push door buttons down to lock them , a real pain.

flapper
15th February 2013, 18:14
Ive fitted a new O/E underbonnet pump from College motors of Oxford. the tank pump is u/s but not having any effect.
In other posts ive advised of bonnet switch probs and multiple electrical problems.

Everything is now Ok and I know the root cause of all the electical gremlins. The FBH

When the pump went I drained the battery trying to start the car. When I removed it to charge the BCU reset itself. The FBH had not worked for several years, the reset energised it again. The first symptom of this was the bonnet switch staying on.
Once the pump was repaired and the car running I found the following
CD not working
heated rear screen not working
heater controls faulty
dash indicator repeaters not working
central locking not working
Bonnet and boot open switches not working

today I disconnected the battery, disconnected the FBH waited 10 minutes for BCU to reset, connected the battery and everything is as it was ,, brilliant.
Big thank you to French Mike and all the other contributors who advised FBH at the heart of the electrical probs:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

flapper
15th February 2013, 18:18
Ive fitted a new O/E underbonnet pump from College motors of Oxford. the tank pump is u/s but not having any ill effect.
In other posts ive advised of bonnet switch probs and multiple electrical problems.

Everything is now Ok and I know the root cause of all the electical gremlins. The FBH

When the pump went I drained the battery trying to start the car. When I removed it to charge the BCU reset itself. The FBH had not worked for several years, the reset energised it again. The first symptom of this was the bonnet switch staying on.
Once the pump was repaired and the car running I found the following
CD not working
heated rear screen not working
heater controls faulty
dash indicator repeaters not working
central locking not working
Bonnet and boot open switches not working

today I disconnected the battery, disconnected the FBH waited 10 minutes for BCU to reset, connected the battery and everything is as it was ,, brilliant.
Big thank you to French Mike and all the other contributors who advised FBH at the heart of the electrical probs:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown: