changing rear pads/discs

[Gman2]

I'm thinking of attemting for the first time changing my rear discs and pads. I've got the Haynes manual and have looked at the guides on the forum. However I'm aware that caliper wind back tools are available that apparently greatly ease the process but there's no mention of this tool in these guides. Can anyone shed any light on this and any general tips would be greatly received.

:)

[oddsocks]

I did mine (75 CDT not ZT) some months ago. If you are replacing the discs and pads, the way I did it was to open the bleed nipple, use the old pad and a screwdriver against the disc to force the piston back in (there appears to be no need to turn the piston). If you are changing everything it also makes sense to change the brake fluid as well.
i posted my response on the other forum some months ago ...

here - (Link removed search on .org )

my post copied here in purple

Well, the weather was excellent today so as posted earlier I have replaced all 4 discs and pads. In all it took 3 hours (not rushing) including full fluid bleed, handbrake adjustment and a cup of tea (delivered). I've got the haynes manual and the instructions were simple and accurate. No special tools are needed other than a 7mm hex socket, T50 torx (for the disc) and a torque wrench that can do 28Nm (7mm hex caliper pins), 33 (T50 torx) 64 (13mm rear caliper holder) 100 (15mm front caliper holder) and 125 (17mm wheel nuts) - all values are for my 75 (confirm yours).

My pads had not worn enough to wear the indicators so these were just removed and refitted.

The road test made me realise that before I must have had a very slightly distorted disc as now there is no pulsation through the pedal.. I haven't stress tested the EBC brakes, but their 'Brake in' surface coating appears to work well.

some months later the EBC (green) brake performance is still excellent. I used to think my wife's audi had good brakes but now when I drive hers it seems to take longer to stop than in the 75

[Kandyman]

I to have removed and fitted EBC grooved discs and green EBC pads and to date i have not had any problems and the brakes feel so much better. :D

[The_Monk]

might be a dumb question but how long do brake pads typically last? Mine have been on over 3 years and seem to be still going strong. The car has only done 30k.

[T-Cut]

might be a dumb question but how long do brake pads typically last? Mine have been on over 3 years and seem to be still going strong. The car has only done 30k.

It's the 'How long is a piece of string?' question. Some drivers can get through brake pads in less than 10,000 miles, others will see 50,000 and more. It depends on driving style and brake useage. As long as the pad wear warning doesn't pop up, they've plenty of life in them. When the indicator finally shows, make plans to have the pads (and the brake wear sensor) replaced. On the other hand, hand brake shoes should last the life of the car under normal circumstances.

TC

[JohnDotCom]

I'm on my Third set from New (2005) but as its an Automatic I do think they tend to wear out Quicker.
Oh that averages about 28,000 miles a Set on front of mine.

[oddsocks]

might be a dumb question but how long do brake pads typically last? Mine have been on over 3 years and seem to be still going strong. The car has only done 30k.

I replace my pads and discs almost as a matter of course when I buy a car - I buy cars at auction at about 80k miles with a service history and keep them for about 3 years and expect to have to do it in that time so do it at the start. My 75 had done 85k and the discs were about 1mm thicker than the minimum spec in haynes. Checking the service history that came with the car (ex company so probable lots of motorway) it had had new front pads at 56k but never any new rear ones - the front ones were not worn much, the rear ones were about to get to the wear indicator (but not bad after 85k!)

[sylvester]

I replaced my front pads at 50k when the sensor came on. Rear pads should last considerably longer. I sold our 218 STD with 180,000 on the clock and still had its original drum brake shoes in place.
Worth shopping round for too - I was quoted £65 but paid eventually £25 for a set of genuine rover pads for the 75 tourer.
The brake pistons can be pushed back into place with a G clamp

[tapped]

What method have people found best for sorting out the mating surface on the front discs? Mine's got the pulsation so I'm going to treat it to some new ones, just keen not to get the pulsation back again!

Cheer

[JohnFol]

Just going back to the caliper wind back question, I use a get of g-clamps and something to protect the piston, like the old pad.

[Mike]

Site how to's in case anyone else comes across this thread in the future ;):

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=150

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=148

[oddsocks]

What method have people found best for sorting out the mating surface on the front discs? Mine's got the pulsation so I'm going to treat it to some new ones, just keen not to get the pulsation back again!

Cheer

I just clean the new disc with meths to remove the coating and wire brush the hub mating surfaces.

I don't know about rover 75 but on previous cars front disc distortion happened by driving through puddles - it cools part of the disc down and if it getting thin it's prone to warp (old montego went through 3 sets due to that). A neighbour had a Subaru and he fitted performance pads (EBC racing ones I think), drove it hard then stopped - the pads kept that part of the disc hot, so as the rest cooled it distorted (you are meant to drive carefully before stopping to let the discs cool)..