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DAS68
10th August 2013, 11:43
Hi- I am stuggling getting the nut for the drive shaft that is in the center of the hub to shift. The car is up on blocks with the wheels off as I am doing the clutch slave and the CV boot and drop links at the same time. I am using a torque wrench inside a steel pipe that is about 3 foot long but i have snapped two socket exstention bars so far. I have someone pressing down on the brakes and the car is in gear but the hub just ends up moving not the nut. any sugesstions would be great as ever!

KWIL
10th August 2013, 15:32
Sorry if I am seen to be too sharp, but have you bent out the nut locking "stake"? Since the hub is held by the brakes, how can that be turning?

COLVERT
10th August 2013, 15:43
Sorry if I am seen to be too sharp, but have you bent out the nut locking "stake"? Since the hub is held by the brakes, how can that be turning?

Not staked.

Hub turning cos brakes are not holding.


Usually taken to a garage for removal with a high impact air gun. :( Shock needed for removal-----long bar NO !!!!


or hire the HULK. :p:

chris75
10th August 2013, 16:15
Not staked.



Not staked ? :confused: Mine are !
Have removed both sides twice using the brakes and a long breaker bar , but you do need good quality 1/2" socket bars as I have bent a cheap one :}
I found tightening them up was more of a problem as you need to measure about 250 lbs.ft torque ! Had to borrow a bigger torque wrench.:}

ZedTeeTee
10th August 2013, 16:17
I use a Dissy1810 (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/member.php?u=10169). Perfect for the job. :D :getmecoat:

dissy1810
10th August 2013, 16:32
What you need is a 3/4 socket and breaker bar I have snapped two 1/2 ones doing it

DAS68
10th August 2013, 17:31
i didn't bend the stalk out to begin with :confused: but when I realised it was there I did. I extended my pipe to 5 foot and heated the nut up and it went rather well from there on in, I also re etablished the ball joint just a bit for some stability. all done now. just need to figure out how to get the drive shaft out the engine side and how to reach the gearbox mounting bolts in the awakard postions some of them are! tommorow is another day:)

andy willi
10th August 2013, 17:57
leave the o/s drive shaft in do not remove it remove the steering rack or shoud i say unbolt the rack and pullit away from the subframe and tie it up then drop the subframe down then drop the 4 bolts out of the n/s mounting then you can get to all the bolts simples


andy

DAS68
10th August 2013, 18:36
Ok- I was trying to avoid the dropping the subframe bit, is this essential? i also haven't managed to drain the gearbox as yet as the drain plug seems to have rounded it sides a bit, if I drop the box without doing this will there be gearbox oil ******* out?

andy willi
10th August 2013, 18:50
you need to drop the subframe risk it with the oil when you remove the n/s driveshaft push a rag in the hole

andy

DAS68
10th August 2013, 19:33
I cant work out how the n/s drive shaft at the engine end comes out as I cant find the 2 bolts that I am told holds it in place, i just have a boot and a metal sleave

Mike Noc
10th August 2013, 20:23
The nearside driveshaft just pulls out. It's the offside that has the additional support.

trikey
10th August 2013, 20:24
Like Dissy said, get yourself a 3/4 inch bar and an impact socket then bounce on it, I broke a half inch power bar last week while doing a clutch change