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75tourer
10th August 2013, 12:47
Hi folks,

If my photobucket image has worked can anybody identify the bush up and slighty left of the axle stand. I'm guessing along the lines of wishbone rear bush.

Was changing the discs and pads and noticed this was needing replaced. Is it easy to change? looked like two bolts on to the subframe but dont know if the wishbone needs to come off. Whats required to change this- Thanks

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/75tourer/P1000365_zps64fc6822.jpg (http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/75tourer/media/P1000365_zps64fc6822.jpg.html)

Billy1mate
10th August 2013, 12:53
Pretty sure it is one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-MG-ZT-FRONT-LOWER-SUSPENSION-ARM-BUSH-RIGHT-HAND-RBX101761SLP-/140924063008?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AMG+ZT&hash=item20cfba8d20

I have never replaced one but it doesn't look too difficult.

chris75
10th August 2013, 13:18
Have a read of this :}
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=24726

WillyHeckaslike
10th August 2013, 13:19
Yes, it's a wishbone bush. Link to thread which gave rise to the "How To". Click (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=109876&highlight=tools+bushes)

KWIL
10th August 2013, 14:26
Yes the bolts are very TIGHT, required torque is 155Nm to refit, use new bolts.

75tourer
10th August 2013, 19:25
Thanks folks- looks like something to tackle sooner rather than later in the decent weather rather than waiting till my mot in December.

David Lawrence
11th August 2013, 05:42
Yes the bolts are very TIGHT, required torque is 155Nm to refit, use new bolts.


It would be good to see some photos of how those bolts get torqued. I've heard a crows foot torque is needed but still don't know how you'd get the torque wrench anywhere near it

Goodtimegaz
11th August 2013, 08:42
Yes the bolts are very TIGHT, required torque is 155Nm to refit, use new bolts.

Why would you use new bolts?

Goodtimegaz
11th August 2013, 08:47
It would be good to see some photos of how those bolts get torqued. I've heard a crows foot torque is needed but still don't know how you'd get the torque wrench anywhere near it

This is a bit of a pig of a job, my right arm is my torque wrench, I changed the rear bolt to a stud and nut made re-fitting much easier.

ProfDave
11th August 2013, 10:13
while you are doing this looks like the old girl could do with some anti corrosion gloop!

T-Cut
11th August 2013, 15:32
These are the latest in the Powerflex range: http://www.powerflexshop.com/powerflex-bush-pff63-602

There are several threads discussing How To and opinions, though it's early days yet.

General opinion is not to buy any cheap eBay offerings. They last 1-2 years only.
For OEM type, see: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=72773

TC

KWIL
11th August 2013, 15:55
New bolts? As they are free of any corrosion or hex head damage, they will be that much easier to achieve correct torque. Some other bolts on the engine such as cam belt pulley bolts are mandatory new because they are torqued and then plus a 1/4 turn which stretches them.

Goodtimegaz
11th August 2013, 17:36
New bolts? As they are free of any corrosion or hex head damage, they will be that much easier to achieve correct torque. Some other bolts on the engine such as cam belt pulley bolts are mandatory new because they are torqued and then plus a 1/4 turn which stretches them.

How confident are you that after market bolts are of the correct grade steel, could be Chinese fakes, no I would re-fit the old bolts,if they are not damaged, and not have any concerns whatsoever