clutch problem !!!

[abourdonne]

hello,

soory for my english !


yesterday I press the clutch pedal remains down.

I have a leak in the master cylinder, but i want to change completely my clutch on my rover (130 hp October 2003 : 195000 kms)


I saw this kit : http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/borg-beck-oem-rover-75-cdti-mg-zt-cdti-clutch-kit-with-slave-3pc-rp1069-uub105301

I have wanted to know if I could put the clutch disc in a DMF?

Originally, the inner clutch disk has no springs?

my mechanic told me that the discs with springs begin only on single flywheel
thank you ????? error????

thank you for your help

[okenora]

That kit is a very good quality kit for our cars. The plate with springs is needed on a single mass flywheel but is not needed on a dual mass flywheel. It will do no harm using a sprung clutch plate with a dual mass flywheel.

DMGRS also does the TAZU master cylinder.

[abourdonne]

A big thank you for your answer



"It will do no harm using a sprung clutch plate with a dual mass flywheel."

Are you sure ? :} my mechanic told me that this could create conflict vibrations?

And in an other garage Rover, they told me that you should always change the whole complete DMF ????????? : Duh: : Eek:: Duh:: Eek: Is thieves ???

[okenora]

You only need to change the DMF if it is worn beyond it's tolerances. Less than 20mm of rotational play and less than 1mm of lateral play is considered acceptable. You will not know how worn the DMF is until you remove the gearbox. Unless the car has been driven hard the DMF is usually good for 150k miles or more. Mine is on over 180k and the DMF is still within tolerances.

Do not worry about the sprung clutch, it is fine for our cars, if anything it is easier on the DMF than the standard clutch.

[abourdonne]

a big thank you !!!!

my car has 193000 kms.

Il think i go to command the kit on dmgrs...

I said that I still ride with because the pedal is returned to its normal position after pumping so I think changing the master cylinder first and wait a bit for the rest

[stevestrat]

Have you checked the fluid level in the reservoir on the master cylinder? If not check it as soon as possible and top up if needed or air could be drawn into the system giving more problems. I have just replaced the slave cylinder because it was leaking but delayed the job to a more convenient time by checking the fluid level regularly and topping up if needed.

[abourdonne]

thank you ?

But it's the same liquid in the master and the esclave and an other in the gearbox ?

[stevestrat]

It's a "sealed" system between the master cylinder at the clutch pedal and the slave cylinder at the clutch with a fluid reservoir on the master cylinder. If there is a leak the fluid in the reservoir will enter the system to replace what has been lost until the reservoir is empty then you will get air in the system. This will result in the clutch biting point getting lower and lower until it becomes impossible to fully disengage the clutch and select gears.

[DMGRS]

The kit you've linked to will work fine for your car - all of our cars had a DMF as standard. The original clutches had no springs, which resulted in a few failures where the friction material would tear off the centre plate, or the splined drive would be torn clean from the centre plate. Having the springs helps to dampen the load as it's applied by engaging the clutch.

I've just fitted one of my own kits (Clutch, Master and Slave) to my own MG ZTT, and it feels lovely. Anyone coming to Pride of Longbridge is welcome to find my (incredibly obvious :D ) ZTT and have a 'feel'. :)

[abourdonne]

a big thank you !!!

I'll start by changing the master but I'll order the kit to have everything the day I have to change the drive and slave.

[DMGRS]

a big thank you !!!

I'll start by changing the master but I'll order the kit to have everything the day I have to change the drive and slave.

No worries - glad to be of help. It seems the clutch problems of the manual 75/ZTs are now less of an issue than they used to be. :)