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Kenton
16th July 2014, 20:08
Hi all, have a suspect ECU on a KV6. car cranks but will not fire, I have swapped the ECU and the EWS from a known good one, and the key from the good one set up is lying next to the EWS, in the footwell. Obviously the key for the car won't now crank it, what do i need to do in the T4 menu to get the original key to crank the car so I con confirm my suspect ECU? any help appreciated. Ta :bowdown::bowdown: to the real GURU's

cb750chris
16th July 2014, 20:16
Didn't think you needed a t4 for this? Surely all you need to do is swap the chip inside the key from the key that came with the imobiliser in to the key that fits the car (remove original chip first).
Then the car should turn over.

Kenton
16th July 2014, 20:21
Didn't think you needed a t4 for this? Surely all you need to do is swap the chip inside the key from the key that came with the imobiliser in to the key that fits the car (remove original chip first).
Then the car should turn over.

are you referring to the transponder for the EWS. :duh:

Kenton
16th July 2014, 20:22
Didn't think you needed a t4 for this? Surely all you need to do is swap the chip inside the key from the key that came with the imobiliser in to the key that fits the car (remove original chip first).
Then the car should turn over.

the original key is next to the EWS module on the floor, so the transponder code is available. Do you think that the transponders need swapping? :smilie_re::cool:

Phil-T4
16th July 2014, 20:28
You need to put the transponder into the key that fits the ignition.

cb750chris
16th July 2014, 20:28
There are 2 parts to the immobiliser transponder system , an "Ariel" ring around the hole where the ignition key fits, and the "chip" in the key.
The chip in the key needs to match the information held in the ews, otherwise it won't crank. Just swap the little black chip and ask should be improved....hopefully :)

The Ariel around the ignition switch is just an Ariel, and doesn't contain any electronics you need to worry about (as far as I know)

Also, I don't believe it is possible to reprogram an ews from a "standard t4"

klarzy
16th July 2014, 20:29
the original key is next to the EWS module on the floor, so the transponder code is available. Do you think that the transponders need swapping? :smilie_re::cool:

Not sure if any of it will work unless the whole kit is coded to the same car via T4... transponder / immobiliser / ECU / BCU / LSM etc...

Steven.walsh
16th July 2014, 23:01
Hi Kenton,
I have pasted conclusion to a 7 wk endeavour I had last year similar to yours below.
Number 2 below, the rolling bar code bit might be where you are struggling, afraid that's as much as I understand on that point.
Number 3 could be an option if you don't get any joy, believe some on the forum can do EPROM jiggery pokery but a lot cheaper than £80 will see if can find who for ya just in case.
Fingers crossed you get sorted keep us posted.
Take care
Steve

Well Peeps just to finish off this Post and give a summary of outcome.
So anyone with an ECU that has got wet or suspected faulty here are 3 options from my experience:-
1). Send it away for repair as I did (but mine came back saying was ok when it was not, money been re-embersed) Is this an isolated incident I ask myself or is ECU repairing a little hit and miss?????
2).Look for second hand ECU (must be exactly same DDE NNN part no. to be absolutely sure you get a compatible ECU, number will be on side of ECU), EWS3(Immoboliser) and car key with transponder, ensure is off the same car, the car was a runner prior to these items been taken off. The transponder by the way is in a compartment within the key fob when you open it up, small and black it is.
PS. Be wary you don't get the Glow Plug Relay instead of the EWS3(IMMOBILISER) as I did, as relay is in same compartment as ECU in the plenum chamber compartment and looks similar so can see why people may think its the EWS3.
NOTE: This method may require an auto locksmith to sync the rolling bar code from your original key to the EWS3 immoboliser, this was the route I was going to take(but got a glow plug relay instead) so have not personally tried this myself.
3).Purchase a 2nd hand ECU with exactly same DDE NNN number, got mine for £50, then I personally took mine to ACE Diagnostics Graham 079567 631491 www.acediagnostics.co.uk you will have to disconnect ECU from car and either send it to him or if local he will pick it up or you can drop it off with him and for £80 he takes all data off your non serviceable ECU EPROM and blows it into your replacement 2ND hand ECU. Beauty of this is all your car VIN, rolling bar code and various other car data is still the same. Furthermore all you need is the ECU, you keep your original keys and EWS3. I simply connected my replacement ECU into car and she fired up straight away, and both keys still worked.
The guy so easy to deal with, very knowledgeable, points out any pitfalls first and offered free of charge as I was local to come out to car if after I'd connected ECU it did not start, truly superb service, always returns calls, highly recommend.

So 2mths later having tried following using my car as donor (MG ZT Diesel)
MAF
under bonnet fuel pump
under back seat fuel pump (was faulty by the way)
crankcase sensor
fuel pressure sensor]
cam sensor
clamped fuel line back to tank from injectors to see if was injector leak back issue
sprayed cold start into inlet, started and ran for a few seconds (shouldn't do this or bump start cars so I have been told)
disconnected Fuel Rail Sensor electically, (this bypasses sensor and car goes into limp home mode but at least starts)
Didn't check high pressure pump other than look for leaks.

Toodlepip
Steve

klarzy
17th July 2014, 07:26
Or

4) send the lot off to Marinabrian who may well be able to sort it all and send the ECU back with a 160 BHP remap...;)

Steven.walsh
17th July 2014, 08:04
Ha ha ya just beat me to it Klarzy, just gone through my threads and it was indeed MarinaBrian, whom has helped me numerous time to-date '',)