V6 2.5 overheating 121k LPG

[bleeperman]

Advice please
Checked fan and airlocks. No leaks.
local garage says head gasket! Do not think so....Would not fix it.:devil:

Within 2 miles goes to red with heater on and will boil if not stopped.

the top heater hose does not seem hot enough to me possible flow restriction
Is it a thermostat locked closed and is it a job for me?

Thanks in advance:}

PS now on Anglesey

[T-Cut]

If the top hose doesn't get too hot to touch when the temperature gauge says overheat, then the thermostat isn't opening. I'd say you need a new stat/housing. Ensure the radiator fan actually operates correctly. The slow speed should start at an engine temperature of 100C. That's within the 'normal' band on the gauge. You need to run the trip screen diagnostic to see the actual temperature. Also do the Demist test to confirm fan operation.

TC

[bleeperman]

Ta
I did the demist and measured temp with ir gun on the block, fan working as expects its a jules Kenlowe:}

Agree but what sort of job is it to a whitworth/BSF spannerman:D

[T-Cut]

Agree but what sort of job is it to a whitworth/BSF spannerman:D

He'll have to buy metric.

Keyhole method: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=129825

Usual method: http://www.jimmcglynn.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/zt/projects/thermostat/index.html

TC

[DMGRS]

My friend's 75 2.5 recently had an interesting cooling issue, and although I don't jump to it as a diagnosis I was actually starting to suspect HGF as being a possibility. Rare, but it does happen.
The car would overheat, but the temperature on the OBD was all over the place - to the point where I thought it must be gas pockets in the coolant causing the erroneous readings (from a cylinder to cooling system HGF).
In the end it was the thermostat - we replaced it as it was clearly leaking (and in the hope it'd cure the symptoms) and it worked wonderfully.
I was incredibly relieved, as it's a cracking car in wonderful condition.

KV6 Thermostat Kits aren't too expensive - I bring them in from MG here:
KV6 Thermostat Kit (http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/thermostats-and-waterpumps/products/kv6-thermostat-kit-45-zs-75-zt-2-0-and-2-5-v6-pem101050)
I'm currently waiting for a batch to arrive, but they should be here in a few days. :)

[bleeperman]

Ordered housing from Dmgrs and whilst waiting a decent 13degrees on yns mon so while the sun is shining stripped down the v6 via the keyhole method. Decided to test the stat in the wifes jam pan and bingo the stat stays shut at boil!
A few dodgy vac hoses but otherwise should be a goer when bits come.
Also note you can see the waterpump vanes at the back of straight tube which look good to me.
If I can diagnose this fault how come local mechs cannot, how many rovers have had new gaskets or worse ended their days for the oldest failure part ever.
This is the second time my car has been directed to the scrap yard by the trade!
Thanks to the contributers and long live the club.BZ hoping she goes back together ok.:}

[SD1too]

If I can diagnose this fault how come local mechs cannot ...
Because you're a better automotive engineer than they are Mark! :D :bowdown: There's a common belief that just because someone charges for their services, then they must know what they're doing.

Another reason is the belief that a Rover badge automatically equals head gasket failure. Well done for ignoring that diagnosis!

This is the second time my car has been directed to the scrap yard by the trade!
This is often said not for technical reasons but for economic reasons which are truly bogus. I expect you've heard the argument: "the repair would be more expensive than the car is worth". So what? We're not insurance companies who know the price of everything and the value of nothing. We want to keep our 75s and ZTs on the road because they're so so much nicer than the average box, and anything worth having is going to cost a bit of money now and again.

The answer is, of course, to avoid those kind of traders and do the work yourself, as you have done!

Here are a couple of tips Mark. The new plastic pipework will be a very tight fit, particularly using the keyhole method. I'd recommend some lubricant on the 'O' rings. When you refill the cooling system, follow the correct procedure which is here (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1547805&postcount=15).

Simon