Air bag light

[googly81]

Hi all I have tried reconnecting and connecting the switches under each seat but the air bag light still remains on! I have previously read that taking the fuse out (fuse 18) on passenger side helps however I have looked in the fuse area and fuse 18 is not there.

Can any one tell me where fuse 18 would go as there are a few empty spaces in the fuse box.

Any advise is much appreciated.

Thanks.:}

[biggles 1957]

Check under the carpets for water!

[Rick-sta]

if you have a MKII fuse box it's fuse 12. 5amp fuse.

I'm currently tackling the same problem, have the airbag light on, checked all connections under the driver's seat and removed the airbag fuse for 30 mins and no luck :(

[roverbarmy]

if you have a MKII fuse box it's fuse 12. 5amp fuse.

I'm currently tackling the same problem, have the airbag light on, checked all connections under the driver's seat and removed the airbag fuse for 30 mins and no luck :(

Me too. It must be the weather for it! :shrug:I went over a bump and on it came. Back under the seat again tomorrow in the light of day.:duh:
Mike

[Rick-sta]

Me too. It must be the weather for it! :shrug:I went over a bump and on it came. Back under the seat again tomorrow in the light of day.:duh:
Mike

Mines been on for a couple of months now, was on and off at first but now on permanently. had the driver's seat unbolted today, checked all the connectors and wiring but no luck :(

[googly81]

Hiya, thanks for your reply. Which is the Mk11 fuse box? is it the one under the glove compartment on passenger side?. I have looked at everything I can think of to get this light off. I will try the fuse option I think hopefully it will work.

Many thanks.

[googly81]

Hi, I have checked under the carpets no water present what a pain.

Thank you.

[kc13661]

This topic comes up time and time again, only a few days since the last one.

Air Bag light is in general considered to be a fault with the connector under the seat, so yes 1st place to check, if the connectors are tight/clean and fine the check under the carpet, it may not necessarily be 'wet/damp' but could have suffered in the past.

Whilst under the carpet check out the Air Bag Sensor, Small rectangular block bolted to the floor and coloured GREEN check the terminals and connections on this if at any time it has suffered damp it will more than likely have failed, if so there is your problem

I have attached a photo of one; this was a problem one, as you can see by the white corrosion where it had been damp in the past.

It is easier to access these by removing the front seats and each seat has one underneath.

http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae128/kc13661c13661/20141120_130408_zps04002c21.jpg (http://s964.photobucket.com/user/kc13661c13661/media/20141120_130408_zps04002c21.jpg.html)

DO NOT DISMISS THIS !!!

[Rick-sta]

Hiya, thanks for your reply. Which is the Mk11 fuse box? is it the one under the glove compartment on passenger side?. I have looked at everything I can think of to get this light off. I will try the fuse option I think hopefully it will work.

Many thanks.

The MKI and MKII fuse boxes are two different types which are both located under the glove compartment on the passenger side. Earlier cars had a MKI fuse box which took the standard size fuses. The MKII fuse box uses mini fuses which are now most commonly used.

MKI fuse box:
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk232/jimbo180649/rover75orangecable001-1.jpg

MKII fuse box:
http://i55.tinypic.com/2edz7n4.jpg

if you have a MKII fuse box then the airbag fuse is number 12. Not sure what number it is on a MKI fuse box though :)

Rick :)

[iandux]

Personally, I'd change the connectors before diving into anything else. Tried the old trick of disconnecting and reconnecting the plugs, but it only cured the issue for a short while.

Changed them as per a thread on here for waterproof connectors at something like £1.75 for five and no problem since.

[googly81]

Hi thanks for the pictures I definitely have the MK11 fuse box I will try the fuse. What a pain this is turning out to be.

Thanks once again for the pictures.

[googly81]

HI where did you purchase the connectors from ?

Thanks.

[roverbarmy]

Had my handbrake to bits to fit arctics mod at the weekend and the light came on after I went over a bump. Just moved my seat fully forward then fully back and "hey presto" the lights gone out.:} Hope you have better luck with yours.

[Drew]

That's how it starts........

[googly81]

Hi I am going to try and change the connectors under the seat. Do you know where I could buy these from? .

Thank you.

[roverbarmy]

That's how it starts........
You were right. It came on again - several times. I've cleaned the contacts with switch cleaner and ACF 50 and have left the connector mounting off the twist and lock fittings on the seat rail ( ie loose under the seat). Since doing this ( a week ago) no further problems.
Mike

[steve811]

HI where did you purchase the connectors from ?

Thanks.

Ebay is your friend, see my thread here:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=145087&highlight=underseat+connectors

[richard hodson]

In response to the original question by Googly 81, fuse 18 ( in the Mark 1 picture shown by Rick-Sta ) is at the right hand end of the bottom row of vertical fuses and has a yellow, hinged, plastic lid on it.
Whilst trying to sort my airbag warning light problem last week, see earlier thread, I tried removing this fuse, it was OK, then waited an hour and put it back.
It did not make any difference, the light stayed on.

[roverbarmy]

You were right. It came on again - several times. I've cleaned the contacts with switch cleaner and ACF 50 and have left the connector mounting off the twist and lock fittings on the seat rail ( ie loose under the seat). Since doing this ( a week ago) no further problems.
Mike
UPDATE:-
Since leaving the wiring unclipped ( ie. not fixed to the seat by the twistlocks) there has been no further problem. I wonder if the clips hold the connection too rigid and allow the unsupported wiring to flap up and down causing the error message. The wiring is now laid almost loose under the seat and is therefore supported by the floor. No problems.
Mike

[JEK]

UPDATE:-
Since leaving the wiring unclipped ( ie. not fixed to the seat by the twistlocks) there has been no further problem. I wonder if the clips hold the connection too rigid and allow the unsupported wiring to flap up and down causing the error message. The wiring is now laid almost loose under the seat and is therefore supported by the floor. No problems.
Mike

I'll give this a try, Mike. I suppose I have been too particular about putting the connections back on the cross rail.

I remember seeing, I think on this forum, that the two parts of the connectors are of different metals and this is why we get a problem with the connections. Movement obviously disturbs the connection and is only restored by the tedious dissconnecting / connecting procedure.
Last resort will be soldering !

[Mike Noc]

UPDATE:-
Since leaving the wiring unclipped ( ie. not fixed to the seat by the twistlocks) there has been no further problem. I wonder if the clips hold the connection too rigid and allow the unsupported wiring to flap up and down causing the error message. The wiring is now laid almost loose under the seat and is therefore supported by the floor. No problems.
Mike

Could be but there was a Rover Technical Bulletin that explained it was the fumes given off from the seat foam over time that tarnishes the contacts in the plug causing a bad connection and the light to come on.

I've found spraying a bit of WD40 in the plug and then connecting and disconnecting it a few times cleans up the contacts and protects them from further tarnishing.

[JEK]

Could be but there was a Rover Technical Bulletin that explained it was the fumes given off from the seat foam over time that tarnishes the contacts in the plug causing a bad connection and the light to come on.

I've found spraying a bit of WD40 in the plug and then connecting and disconnecting it a few times cleans up the contacts and protects them from further tarnishing.

Who would have thought of fumes from the foam seats would be the cause. I wonder how they found that out.
I will try the WD40 instead of the electric cleaner and release the connectors from the cross rail also in the hope that both together will cure the problem.

Hope it's dry tomorrow and I can give it a try.:noel:

[Arctic]

Who would have thought of fumes from the foam seats would be the cause. I wonder how they found that out.
I will try the WD40 instead of the electric cleaner and release the connectors from the cross rail also in the hope that both together will cure the problem.

Hope it's dry tomorrow and I can give it a try.:noel:

Hi John.
you have a PM regarding the under seat connectors Arctic :Holly2:

[roverbarmy]

UPDATE:-
Since leaving the wiring unclipped ( ie. not fixed to the seat by the twistlocks) there has been no further problem. I wonder if the clips hold the connection too rigid and allow the unsupported wiring to flap up and down causing the error message. The wiring is now laid almost loose under the seat and is therefore supported by the floor. No problems.
Mike
Update 30/12/2014 -Still going fine with no problems. Fingers crossed, it's the longest that it has gone with no further problems since taking the fixed twist lock off and laying the cable and connector under the seat.

[Frameside]

Changed the seats on my tourer about a year ago. initially all ok, after a month the drivers side started displaying the seat belt light which I could fix by moving the seat about then this stopped working so I tipped the seat back cut out the connector and soldered up the wires
the passenger side started a similar performance in Sept so this afternoon it was seAt out and the connectors got the snip in preference of a soldered joint.

My early prototype saloon has quite different connections. however after removing the seats to do the hand brake compensator they started to flash the warning lights on. I cleaned them with RS contact cleaner, plugged and unplugged them a few times then lubricated the contacts with Vaseline as its conductive. No more problems. but if they do I shall not hesitate to wield the soldering iron!

Alan