Hydramount Replacement.

[wuzerk]

I have been asked to describe the Hydramount removal so here goes: THIS IS ON A DIESEL.

hopefully the one pic explains it all.
1. remove the engine undertray and one of the 15mm lower engine mount bolts. Loosen the other lower mount bolt so that it hangs free and will not prevent the engine being swung at the top (see later).
2. Remove the engine cover and then remove the six bolts and one nut marked
'A'. It will aid removal of the casting assembly if you just loosen the bolt marked 'C'.
3. now jack up the engine with wood between the sump to protect it.
4. Now remove the four bolts marked 'B'. If the casting starts to tilt
as you undo these bolts then you must align the engine otherwise
it will be extremely difficult to remove them.
5. You can now wriggle the casting with all its attachments off of the
Hydramount.
6. Hopefully you will be able to unscrew the mount (anticlockwise)
using a drift on the metal collar but, if it proves hard, try pouring
some releasing fluid into the bottom cup (not used on the petrol
models) and leave for five minutes.
7. Fit the new Hydramount as tightly as you can without stressing
the rubber in any way and then refit the casting with the'B'
bolts. Once fully tightened you can remove the engine jacking
gear.
8. Refit the six bolts and one nut marked 'A' leaving the two 15mm bolts (highest in
the picture) until everything else, including the Lower Engine
Mount has been reconnected.
9. Finally, tighten the bolt marked 'C'.
10. Hopefully you will have a remarkably vibration free cabin.

GET THE CORRECT TYPE FOR YOUR ENGINE.
http://imageshack.com/a/img540/8991/yzrMZH.jpg

[EastPete]

Brilliant - many thanks for taking the trouble to do this - looks relatively straightforward. I will order the new hydramount from DMGRS in the coming days - there might be a slight delay before I get round to fitting it - I had hernia surgery just over a month ago, and am still slightly sore- I am supposed to take it easy for a few more weeks before tackling anything too strenuous. Anyway, I'll let you know how I get on (and how the switch to 15 inch wheels works out).

All the best

Pete

[Arctic]

Hi Fred.
Excellent post and big thank you for sharing your knowledge with us cheers Arctic ;)

[EastPete]

Well, I did my hydramount this afternoon - this guide was very useful.

One issue on my car was that there was a black metal block welded onto the black bracket that goes over the top of the mount, that prevented access to the 18mm nut on top of the hydramount - what a bummer ! See picture below - this block had a yellow blob painted on it. I thought I could remove bolt C and get to remove the bracket to get at the nut, but no the bolt is too long to clear the inner wing when you try to withdraw it. So, I had to undo the fixings for the steel pipework that runs above the bracket (8mm bolts on the mounting on the inner wing, and brackets on the slam panel), to move the pipes slightly so that the bracket can be swung upwards after loosening bolt C, to allow access to the hydramount nut.

Otherwise, a fairly straightforward job. I squirted some releasing fluid round the mount half an hour before I started, and it came undone with a few taps of a large screwdriver/hammer on metal cut outs. When putting the new mount back in the metal baseplate, a bit of washing up liquid round the rubber base helps it all go together smoothly. A quick test drive showed the car is a bit smoother and quieter and the clutch judder is slightly improved. I still have the irritating zizzing of the door lock buttons though - I suspect this is coming from the road, so perhaps wishbone or anti-roll bushes are to blame.

Pete

PS: I'll try to put photo in a follow-up post- I am having trouble uploading it (probably too big).

Here is the photo:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=43173&d=1419097795

Pete

[wuzerk]

Well, I did my hydramount this afternoon - this guide was very useful.

One issue on my car was that there was a black metal block welded onto the black bracket that goes over the top of the mount, that prevented access to the 18mm nut on top of the hydramount - what a bummer ! See picture below - this block had a yellow blob painted on it. I thought I could remove bolt C and get to remove the bracket to get at the nut, but no the bolt is too long to clear the inner wing when you try to withdraw it. So, I had to undo the fixings for the steel pipework that runs above the bracket (8mm bolts on the mounting on the inner wing, and brackets on the slam panel), to move the pipes slightly so that the bracket can be swung upwards after loosening bolt C, to allow access to the hydramount nut.

Otherwise, a fairly straightforward job. I squirted some releasing fluid round the mount half an hour before I started, and it came undone with a few taps of a large screwdriver/hammer on metal cut outs. When putting the new mount back in the metal baseplate, a bit of washing up liquid round the rubber base helps it all go together smoothly. A quick test drive showed the car is a bit smoother and quieter and the clutch judder is slightly improved. I still have the irritating zizzing of the door lock buttons though - I suspect this is coming from the road, so perhaps wishbone or anti-roll bushes are to blame.

Pete

PS: I'll try to put photo in a follow-up post- I am having trouble uploading it (probably too big).
You were unlucky to have the metal block on your car, I queried its purpose some time ago and the consensus was that it was a damper which was not fitted to all of the cars.

[jonathan63]

Well, I did my hydramount this afternoon - this guide was very useful.

One issue on my car was that there was a black metal block welded onto the black bracket that goes over the top of the mount, that prevented access to the 18mm nut on top of the hydramount - what a bummer ! See picture below - this block had a yellow blob painted on it. I thought I could remove bolt C and get to remove the bracket to get at the nut, but no the bolt is too long to clear the inner wing when you try to withdraw it. So, I had to undo the fixings for the steel pipework that runs above the bracket (8mm bolts on the mounting on the inner wing, and brackets on the slam panel), to move the pipes slightly so that the bracket can be swung upwards after loosening bolt C, to allow access to the hydramount nut.

Otherwise, a fairly straightforward job. I squirted some releasing fluid round the mount half an hour before I started, and it came undone with a few taps of a large screwdriver/hammer on metal cut outs. When putting the new mount back in the metal baseplate, a bit of washing up liquid round the rubber base helps it all go together smoothly. A quick test drive showed the car is a bit smoother and quieter and the clutch judder is slightly improved. I still have the irritating zizzing of the door lock buttons though - I suspect this is coming from the road, so perhaps wishbone or anti-roll bushes are to blame.

Pete

PS: I'll try to put photo in a follow-up post- I am having trouble uploading it (probably too big).

Interesting that your car is "a little smoother and quieter". Have you thought about the crank pulley. My car vibrates too much and isnt as smooth as it should be. I wondering pulley or hydromount??????

[EastPete]

Dear Jonathan,

I have thought about the crank pulley amongst other things, but since this is a relatively low mileage car (36,000), that stood unused for 5 years after being built in 2005, my current thinking is that the rubber components have aged/hardened due to lack of use and this is the reason for the slightly harsher engine noise/vibration than on my previous 2001 car. The old hydramount and lower engine mounting I have taken off the car seem hard/rigid compare to the slightly softer, more flexible feel of the new items, so this supports this theory.

Replacing the engine mounts is a cheaper option as a first try compared to the crank pulley. Do you think the crank pulley could be at fault after such low mileage ? - what are the symptoms ? - has anyone on here found that changing the pulley makes the car smoother ??

From reading this forum, there could be other avenues to explore, such as cleaning out the inlet manifold (on the 'to do' lost) or changing the lower wishbone bushes - these can affect engine vibration/smoothness, apparently. One thing at a time !

Thanks for your comments, and I will be interested in any experience you or other members have on reducing engine harshness/vibration. It is not a serious problem on my car, I am really just 'fettling' it to try to get it back to 'as new' condition as possible.

Cheers
Pete

[jonathan63]

Dear Jonathan,

I have thought about the crank pulley amongst other things, but since this is a relatively low mileage car (36,000), that stood unused for 5 years after being built in 2005, my current thinking is that the rubber components have aged/hardened due to lack of use and this is the reason for the slightly harsher engine noise/vibration than on my previous 2001 car. The old hydramount and lower engine mounting I have taken off the car seem hard/rigid compare to the slightly softer, more flexible feel of the new items, so this supports this theory.

Replacing the engine mounts is a cheaper option as a first try compared to the crank pulley. Do you think the crank pulley could be at fault after such low mileage ? - what are the symptoms ? - has anyone on here found that changing the pulley makes the car smoother ??

From reading this forum, there could be other avenues to explore, such as cleaning out the inlet manifold (on the 'to do' lost) or changing the lower wishbone bushes - these can affect engine vibration/smoothness, apparently. One thing at a time !

Thanks for your comments, and I will be interested in any experience you or other members have on reducing engine harshness/vibration. It is not a serious problem on my car, I am really just 'fettling' it to try to get it back to 'as new' condition as possible.

Cheers
Pete
I envy you having a 36k car; mine's done 207k. You might be right about not needing a CP after only 36k; other members will have a better idea than I.
I have cleaned out the inlet manifold (do this when having clean looking hands doesn't matter. You wont get them looking clean for about a week) and replaced the wishbone rear bushes. The bottom engine mount on mine is a modified Mondeo unit. My car vibrates more than Id like. Just trying to work out whether to do the Hydromount or the CP; cant afford both though.

[RoverDan]

Re the noise and vibration, I have just had the three major engine mounts changed by my garage (wimped out!) on my 140k mile Tourer. That car was noticeable more clattery at tick over and low speeds than the saloon (80k miles) or the limo (60k miles), all three being diesel autos.

The large circular rubber mount of the upper mount (shown top left in the photo above with 5 cast ridges on the housing) was visibly torn, hence changing the lot of them. I had previously done the lower tie/mount with a modified Mondeo item, which was good when checked.

Now the Tourer is as quiet as the others, and feels 'smoother' in a way that is hard to pinpoint. I also seem to have lost the annoying tick-over wheel vibration that the saloon is now starting to show quite markedly.

I have ordered another hydramount on its own this time, and will compare before and after on the saloon when this is changed. Might even man-up and do it myself now I have a guide - thanks Wuzerk :)

[jonathan63]

Re the noise and vibration, I have just had the three major engine mounts changed by my garage (wimped out!) on my 140k mile Tourer. That car was noticeable more clattery at tick over and low speeds than the saloon (80k miles) or the limo (60k miles), all three being diesel autos.

The large circular rubber mount of the upper mount (shown top left in the photo above with 5 cast ridges on the housing) was visibly torn, hence changing the lot of them. I had previously done the lower tie/mount with a modified Mondeo item, which was good when checked.

Now the Tourer is as quiet as the others, and feels 'smoother' in a way that is hard to pinpoint. I also seem to have lost the annoying tick-over wheel vibration that the saloon is now starting to show quite markedly.

I have ordered another hydramount on its own this time, and will compare before and after on the saloon when this is changed. Might even man-up and do it myself now I have a guide - thanks Wuzerk :)

Very interesting stuff. Id be interested to hear what difference changing the hydramount makes to the Tourer and the vibrating steering wheel.

[EastPete]

Dear Dan

Although I didn't mentioned it above, I did change the circular inner wing mount at the same time as the hydramount - it is not cheap (about 90 pounds from Rimmers). It is fairly easy to do once you have the hydramount removed - four bolts.

I would encourage you to try this job yourself - good tools make it a lot easier- a trolley jack is almost essential , and I have a selection of long aviation spanners and flexible head ratchet spanners that makes undoing/tightening a lot of the awkward to access bolts in this job a lot easier. A breaker bar to crack the bolts during removal also came in handy.

Pete

[DMGRS]

I'm changing the hydramount for a customer in the New Year, I'll drive the car first, and post feedback on the change it's made. :)

[jonathan63]

I'm changing the hydramount for a customer in the New Year, I'll drive the car first, and post feedback on the change it's made. :)

Be interested to see if the before symptoms are the same as mine. Vibrating steering wheel and slightly rough feeling engine.

[rosephus]

Be interested to see if the before symptoms are the same as mine. Vibrating steering wheel and slightly rough feeling engine.

Mine is the same. Will be interested to see the results.

[first-things-first]

Although I didn't mentioned it above, I did change the circular inner wing mount at the same time as the hydramount - it is not cheap (about 90 pounds from Rimmers). It is fairly easy to do once you have the hydramount removed - four bolts.


Hi Pete

Do you think the extra circular inner wind mount makes a lot of difference if changed with the Hydramount? Or is it more a belt and braces thing as you are there?

Thanks Andrew

[wuzerk]

Hi Pete

Do you think the extra circular inner wind mount makes a lot of difference if changed with the Hydramount? Or is it more a belt and braces thing as you are there?

Thanks Andrew
The secondary mount (fixed to the inner wing by 3 bolts) applies an additional
damping effect to the Hydramount and, if doing its job, will also prevent the engine vibrations from being transmitted to the inner O/S wing. This does not prove that the Hydramount is not faulty however so you should start with that first unless you can actually see damage on the secondary mount.A faulty Hydramount allows excessive engine movement which resonates through the car frame to the steering wheel and seats. In my case the secondary mount was perfectly preventing vibrations in the O/S inner wing but the Hydramount had dried out and stiffened with age allowing the resonance to transfer through the car frame. The difference with a new unit has transformed the feel of the car.

[EastPete]

Hi Pete

Do you think the extra circular inner wind mount makes a lot of difference if changed with the Hydramount? Or is it more a belt and braces thing as you are there?

Thanks Andrew

Andrew

Belt and braces really- I think I read somewhere on here that replacing both parts gave a better result, at least for one member. If funds are tight, try the hydramount first, as many folks have reported a good improvement just replacing the hydramount alone.

Pete

[first-things-first]

The secondary mount (fixed to the inner wing by 3 bolts) applies an additional
damping effect to the Hydramount and, if doing its job, will also prevent the engine vibrations from being transmitted to the inner O/S wing.

Thanks again Wuzerk. The one I was asking about was the metal cup the Hydramount sits in. The one you describe - no.19 on http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001744 (which is termed a "Rod casting assembly-tie") does have a split in the cruciform shaped rubber. I will replace with the Hydramount.

I was asking about no. 20 - "Absorber-dynamic right hand side-engine mounting" hopefully is not quite so liable to fail?

Best Regards

Andrew

Thanks you Pete for the response. Sounds a good plan do the two with obvious age (no. 19 above and Hydramount), then inspect the no. 20 mount and change if still unhappy.

Did you guys get the Hydramount from DMGRS? Is that a genuine one or a new Chinese MG version?

[EastPete]

Dear Andrew

I got the hydramount (Item 1 in the Rimmers picture) from DMGRS - not sure of origin, but it looks good quality and identical to the original Rover one I took off the car. Perhaps Mat can comment. Item 20 is the metal baseplate the hydramount sits in on the diesel and should not need replacing - it has a cut out in the side facing the engine, but I cannot see what can wear out or split on this part. So, I would suggest doing the hydramount rubber (Item 1 on the Rimmers picture), and item 19 (inner wing tie rod) if the rubber centre on it seems perished, split or hardened. The hydramount rubber (Item 1) has a metal cup on the bottom that seats in the casting (item 20), that is integral to the hydramout, and not a separate item.

I hope this clarifies things.

Pete

[first-things-first]

Many thanks Pete. I mistook the circular reference for you changing the hydramount cup (as it says it is a 'dynamic' mount).

Yours and wuzerk's posts clears it up.

My comment on the hydramount was just to confirm suitability for the dizzles as the lower mount he sells fits but is not the same type as petrol and dizzle different. As you say Mat should clear it up.

:christmas:

[wuzerk]

Thanks you Pete for the response. Sounds a good plan do the two with obvious age (no. 19 above and Hydramount), then inspect the no. 20 mount and change if still unhappy.

Did you guys get the Hydramount from DMGRS? Is that a genuine one or a new Chinese MG version?
It had better be a genuine one (diesel) because the Chinese do not produce
a diesel! The cup at the base of the diesel Hydramount is a large piece of metal and should not suffer any damage throughout the cars life IMO.

[whippet]

Removed my Hydramount on my Cdti today and it was badly split,also under inspection the Tie bar top mount rubber has also badly split, part number kkh101852, there seems to be a couple of variants on rimmers website, looking for a seconhand as rimmers new are approx £92, worth checking this part when changing your hydramount. :snowfight1:

[rosephus]

i have noticed that my intermittant vibration is a lot better in warm weather.

this suggests to me that maybe the glycol in the hyrdramount is past its best.

[Jakg]

Thanks for the guide - halfway through the job and I just thought I'd say that having the big black metal block over the bolt isn't a major problem - but not having a deep 18mm socket is!

You need one, I need one :(

[ALPACA]

:bowdown::bowdown:


I have to say a massive THANK YOU to my brilliant dad, (WUZERK) who, just a few days after coming out of hospital after surgery, very kindly supervised me in fitting a new Hydramount (from DMGRS) to Roxy. At Thirteen years old and 112,000, she was noticeably more buzzy in terms of vibrations at the steering wheel than his car which had a new Hydramount fitted. I could also see and feel the difference at the engine and feel it inside the cabin.



I can do basic service tasks, but am not a competent spanner man, but dad talked me through each step and I did not manage to loose any bolts or break any of his tools. Whilst underneath the car, I took off the Lower engine mount which looked OK at first, but on closer inspection it was badly split on both sides in several places, so I fitted a new one (from DMGRS), as part of the job.


Driving home, I just could not believe the difference in Roxy. She is now soooo smooth, I can't put my finger on how, but she just feels like a new car, no more vibrations at the steering wheel, and a real pleasure to drive. I must admit I was terrified lying underneath the car, with a wheel jack and piece of wood under the sump, the engine swinging in the breeze and dad saying, 'Oh, the bolts are not lined up......!', but all went well and all I can say is it's one of the most brilliant 'mods' I have done to Roxy.



Thanks Wuzerk, I am ready to tour Scotland in a few weeks now and as happy as a pig in the you-know-what :}

[wuzerk]

Thanks for the guide - halfway through the job and I just thought I'd say that having the big black metal block over the bolt isn't a major problem - but not having a deep 18mm socket is!

You need one, I need one :(
I just moved the socket further down on the 1/2" square drive so that it just engaged the 18mm nut.....job done.

[wuzerk]

:bowdown::bowdown:









Driving home, I just could not believe the difference in Roxy. She is now soooo smooth,



Thanks Wuzerk, I am ready to tour Scotland in a few weeks now and as happy as a pig in the you-know-what :}
The old Hydramount looked to be in perfect condition, no splits, no sign of fluid leakage etc but changing it transformed the car. I think that is because the rubber hardens with age so is less able to flex and absorb the
engine movement.

[Jakg]

I just moved the socket further down on the 1/2" square drive so that it just engaged the 18mm nut.....job done.

Unfortunately in my case that did not work - it just rounded the nut a bit!

In my case I had to use a 36" breaker bar to undo basically all of the bolts in this job - they were all horrifically tight (much tighter than the torque figures in RAVE).

[ricklincs45]

Hello All, I know this is a rather late edition to the original post, but only just came across it.

Ok, I read with great interest the discussions about the top engine hydramount. Approx' 6 months ago the crank pulley failed on my ZT-T cdti (with X-power 160bhp remap, 102000 miles, fsh). I had the pulley changed by a mechanic I trust, and who has experience of working on these cars. I should point out the replacement was an aftermarket item. At the same time, the aux' belt was replaced.

Upon collecting the car, she now 'rattles' noticeably more than before, only at tickover speeds - as soon as the revs pick-up, the noise goes. This was extremely annoying as previously she ran as sweet as a nut, and I'm obsessive about things not being right.

Then had idler and tensioner replaced (not cheap); made no difference whatsoever.

Came across a thread from a guy with similar problem who had replaced virtually everything on the aux' belt line, all to no avail until he changed the belt for a different make; noise went. So, recently had the belt changed (again) for a genuine one. No difference, another 160 quid wasted.

The car still runs perfectly, no leaks from power steering. So, is the replacement aftermarket crank pulley the problem? Very expensive to change to a genuine one just to find it isn't. Or is the unwanted tickover noise coincidental? If you pour water on the aux' belt at the p' steering pump, although the belt squeals, the engine noise smooths out and the noise disappears. As soon as the belt dries out, the noise is back.

Now going outside to have a look at the hydramount. A very interesting and helpful thread, I hope some of what I mentioned is of use to someone.

Rick

[wuzerk]

If you do mean 'rattle' and not 'vibrate ' and since you state that it rattled
more than before the crank pulley was changed it certainly sounds like the
replacement is the problem. The water test is pretty reliable too so seems to confirm it. This seems to be the original quality make but you could do a search for a cheaper supplier.

http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/pulleys-tensioners-and-idlers/products/rover-75-cdti-mg-zt-cdti-oem-corteco-crankshaft-pulley-damper-lhg100750

I seem to remember something about the landrover/freelander item being the same and cheaper......ISLAND 4X4 rings a bell!

[ricklincs45]

Hi, yes, definitely a rattle, though if you listen closely, it's not constant. The tone of the engine changes roughly every 3 seconds or so; rattle, less so, rattle, less so etc etc. Someone else listening to it might not even make it out.

Did think about putting a used one on (60 quid instead of £254 :eek:) - it may sound cheapskate, but can't justify (to the wife) spending 254 + labour to find out it hasn't cured it.

Perhaps I just ought to live with it??:shrug:

Rick

[Mr Jiminy]

What a superbly written guide. Rosie has always had a slight buzz in the cabin. I suspected the mount. It has got worse since the AA man lowered the engine slightly to get an auxiliary belt on (that damn tensioner!) so I'm suspecting it is now time for it to retire. Thanks for a great guide.

[Retap]

Nice info this thread thanks. Im stepping outside shortly to fit new hyrdamount and the secondary mount, both received earlier in the week from DMGRS.



Before Christmas I renewed the hp pump and whilst i was there decided to inspect the mounts because vibration was increasing. below are the photos i took.



So now i have had my 3 month winter break and tbh the condition of roads is worst i have seen already got one claim in with council for pot holed new tyre on a wheel side that i spent a fortune on new bearing and bushes etc for last mot GRRRR:mad:!!


Its time to get back to it.... P.S first time for me doing engine mounts but already had the mounts stripped off once except removal of Hydramount so bolts ready prepped to come off without hassle (he says lol with massive hammer and drift in hand) also noted the secondary mount supplied has less rubber than the original will post photo soon.



RATE THE OLD MOUNTS CDTI:


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/4448360573fcc4ddfa.jpg




https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/4448360573fcc7b9ba.jpg

[Arctic]

Nice info this thread thanks. Im stepping outside shortly to fit new hyrdamount and the secondary mount, both received earlier in the week from DMGRS.



Before Christmas I renewed the hp pump and whilst i was there decided to inspect the mounts because vibration was increasing. below are the photos i took.



So now i have had my 3 month winter break and tbh the condition of roads is worst i have seen already got one claim in with council for pot holed new tyre on a wheel side that i spent a fortune on new bearing and bushes etc for last mot GRRRR:mad:!!


Its time to get back to it.... P.S first time for me doing engine mounts but already had the mounts stripped off once except removal of Hydramount so bolts ready prepped to come off without hassle (he says lol with massive hammer and drift in hand) also noted the secondary mount supplied has less rubber than the original will post photo soon.



RATE THE OLD MOUNTS CDTI:


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/4448360573fcc4ddfa.jpg




https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/4448360573fcc7b9ba.jpg


Hi John.
Yes they both are due a change hope it goes smooth for you.

[Retap]

Hi Arctic glad to report job sorted without drama in well under 3 hours this afternoon. Old hyrdamount drifted out easier than expected happy days.


This is MK2 it had the damper black box on the bracket restricting access to the hydramount nut. Bolt C is to long to come out so unbolt two nuts "A" on secondry mount and the bracket will swing up under the air con pipes with manipulation for access to the Hydramount nut.



Also found the the short stubby sealey socket set indispensable as the Hydra mount top nut A needs that 18mm deep socket, can use the extension bar in the sealey kit onto a stubby 18mm from the kit, then the secondary mount bolts couple of those are tight for access. Used the Sealey set so much since last year makes those tight spaces a joy :D


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/44483605793cd31c0d.jpg




Some photos note the differing rubber in the secondary mount.


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/4448360579734e96e4.jpg


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/44483605797352f295.jpg


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/444836057974cb92b0.jpg


All done


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/4448360579734c2185.jpg

[Arctic]

Hi John.
I had to do the same with A/C pipes loosen them so the black bracket can be rotated upwards.
https://i.imgur.com/URJJF8kl.jpg1

Then the hydra mount top nut can be removed.
https://i.imgur.com/u3X09vrl.jpg2

I also removed the four bolts from the large alloy block.
https://i.imgur.com/1VCcQ3fl.jpg3

The bolt going through the black bracket was then undone, but is to long to come out.
https://i.imgur.com/3Vp9s17l.jpg4

The engine was raised so that bolt was able to me removed.
https://i.imgur.com/uiTyytMl.jpg5

Black bracket removed.
https://i.imgur.com/jPmYzeal.jpg6

https://i.imgur.com/A80mw7vl.jpg7

Then the alloy block was removed
https://i.imgur.com/bzHjH4Zl.jpg8

https://i.imgur.com/O8Egzjql.jpg9

This then left the hydra mount fully exposed for removal.
https://i.imgur.com/INnjb9bl.jpg10

Then the star mount was removed as this would get in the way of the hydra mount being extracted.
https://i.imgur.com/yfdCUv0l.jpg11

Special tool used to remove the hydra mount.
https://i.imgur.com/YjGofK0l.jpg12

Hydra mount changed out.
https://i.imgur.com/AGBpKfNl.jpg13

I must say that i am not impressed with the star mount being replaced with the one you have fitted is that not for a 1.8 engine? with only two pieces of the four rubber supports on an original mount?
https://i.imgur.com/qsj5kF4l.jpg14

Do you know the part number on the new mount ? as the number on the old one removed (326A56) is for a petrol engine.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-1999-03-Petrol-Engine-Mount-Bracket-326A56/174501895356?hash=item28a11f9cbc:g:XWgAAOSwBthfnyU R

[Retap]

See how it goes anyway has to be better than what came off!



and From DMGRS site:


https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-75-mg-zt-tie-rod-engine-mount-kkh101841-kkh101972?_pos=4&_sid=8057ed201&_ss=r

Rover 75 / MG ZT Upper Tie Rod (Engine Mount) - KKH101841 / KKH101972 / KKH101852



These are genuine items from MG.


The design of this item has changed slightly from the original MG-R part - this item is now compatible with all engine types, as the centre rubber has been strengthened, and rubber bump-stops added to minimise rocking motion in service.

[Arctic]

Yes there were different part numbers for each model

1.8 engine
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101841

2.0 / 2.5 engine.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101972

Diesel
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101852


You will not find a diesel one as a Rowe diesel car was not made.
http://www.fiacom.net/MG%20ROVER-SUSPENSION&WHEELS&SHAFT7.html

https://www.drive2.ru/l/4486122/

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000801942858.html


http://www.fiacom.net/MG%20ROVER-SUSPENSION&WHEELS&SHAFT7.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000834267286.html


I don't really like these one part fits all as they do not if that was the case one fit all would have been fitted in the first place.

This is what we will be reading below, how can an original part be superseded, with one with less rubber in, it does not make sense.


(This is a brand new Genuine MG Rover RH top engine mount it sits by the RH inner wing.

Catalogue description: Mounting-right hand side engine

for all V6 engine types 2.0 & 2.5 Petrol Engine part number KKH101972 suitable for

manual and auto models and the 2.0 Diesel, superceeds part number KKH101852)

[Retap]

I know what you mean but its on now and its a fair bit cheaper than the MGR original part that Rimmers claim to have:



https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101852






Got some miles to do this week so see how it goes with it.

[Arctic]

I know what you mean but its on now and its a fair bit cheaper than the MGR original part that Rimmers claim to have:



https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-KKH101852

Got some miles to do this week so see how it goes with it.

Hi John.
Do let us know how it performs over the next few months also if there is any vibration from the mount ;) cheers Arctic.

[STUBIE]

I wonder if I can get some advise on these mounts, on my V6 I had a noticable jerk when accelerating hard and autobox changing between 2nd and 3rd I believe ( on smooth acceleration this was not evident) so I changed the tear drop mount 2 years ago but the issue did not get resolved, so last year I got Lates to fit a new hydramount unfortunately this did fit as it was too long I was told and they fitted a used one that was better then mine but of another car. I also had the 2/4 soleniod changed. Now this did help a bit but still the box was not smooth under hard acceleration. I have another new hydromount to fit in a few weeks time but wonder if other mounts need changing.
i would also say I notice some jolt when braking and I feel the autobox changing down to match the engine speed.

All assistance gratefully recieved.

Stubie

[Retap]

Hi John.
Do let us know how it performs over the next few months also if there is any vibration from the mount ;) cheers Arctic.


Will do matey, if the driver window has lost its rattle this week i will be happy.

[Retap]

I wonder if I can get some advise on these mounts, on my V6 I had a noticable jerk when accelerating hard and autobox changing between 2nd and 3rd I believe ( on smooth acceleration this was not evident) so I changed the tear drop mount 2 years ago but the issue did not get resolved, so last year I got Lates to fit a new hydramount unfortunately this did fit as it was too long I was told and they fitted a used one that was better then mine but of another car. I also had the 2/4 soleniod changed. Now this did help a bit but still the box was not smooth under hard acceleration. I have another new hydromount to fit in a few weeks time but wonder if other mounts need changing.
i would also say I notice some jolt when braking and I feel the autobox changing down to match the engine speed.

All assistance gratefully recieved.

Stubie




I have very little experience with auto's im sure Arctic or other knowledgable members will be along shortly. However i do know that if you get a knock under hard braking it could indicate the gearbox mount is worn and that mount sits under the battery box. I lifted the battery box off a few weeks ago to inspect it (manual box) and took a photo or two, cant be much different on the auto.


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/imagehosting/444836058817827596.jpg

[KeithA]

I'm going to have a crack at this job shortly, when the parts arrive (3 piece mount kit). A question for those who have done it please .... where the guide says "Jack up engine", does it actually mean just "support engine"? Or if you do need to raise it, by how much?

Thanks,

Keith

[trikey]

I'm going to have a crack at this job shortly, when the parts arrive (3 piece mount kit). A question for those who have done it please .... where the guide says "Jack up engine", does it actually mean just "support engine"? Or if you do need to raise it, by how much?

Thanks,

Keith

Supporting the engine is fine for the hydromount side, when you tackle the gearbox mount change, you will have to lower the gearbox side to allow access to the mount as two of the bolts wont come out if the gearbox is in its usual position.

[Arctic]

I'm going to have a crack at this job shortly, when the parts arrive (3 piece mount kit). A question for those who have done it please .... where the guide says "Jack up engine", does it actually mean just "support engine"? Or if you do need to raise it, by how much?

Thanks,

Keith


Hi Keith.
Have a quick read of post 36 ;) the engine is supported by a jack with a piece of wood or a rubber block which ever you have.

diesel car.
https://i.imgur.com/2Pj4D3Ql.jpg1

Petrol car.
https://i.imgur.com/DfLiEPOl.jpg2

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=2872566&postcount=36

[KeithA]

My mounts are arriving today so I'll be able to have a go at fitting them tomorrow. One further question springs to mind.

For those of us without the special removal tool who will be drifting the old mount off, how do we get the new mount fitted tight enough? I think the rave setting is about 60 or 65 ft/lb?

1: Drift it back in carefully with hammer and screwdriver?

2: lock 2 nuts on the upper thread and wind from there?

3: Providing the top bolt is tight enough it's hard to see how the mount could move so do we not worry too much about the initial torque for the mount?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the help!

Keith

Sent from my moto g(30) using Tapatalk

[Arctic]

My mounts are arriving today so I'll be able to have a go at fitting them tomorrow. One further question springs to mind.

For those of us without the special removal tool who will be drifting the old mount off, how do we get the new mount fitted tight enough? I think the rave setting is about 60 or 65 ft/lb?

1: Drift it back in carefully with hammer and screwdriver?

2: lock 2 nuts on the upper thread and wind from there?

3: Providing the top bolt is tight enough it's hard to see how the mount could move so do we not worry too much about the initial torque for the mount?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the help!

Keith

Sent from my moto g(30) using Tapatalk

Hi Keith.
You number 2 solution is the best.

[KeithA]

Thanks all for the advice.

This morning I have changed all 3 mounts. Although all of the old mounts looked in pretty good shape this work has made a noticable further improvement - This week I had crank pulley and belts done at a garage which made the car smoother. Although it doesn't really quieten the diesel engine noise I can't really feel anything anymore through the dash or steering wheel when the engine is idling (or at any revs). The buzz through the drivers door locking mech also seems to have gone. If I had no hearing I would barely be able to tell the engine is running.

Only issue I had doing the job was that the engine and cast block went out of line and I had to tinker with a 2nd jack to be able to do it back up. My driveway is far from perfectly level so that might be a factor. Everything came apart easily with basic tools, no need to breaker bars etc.

Fingers crossed, time to just enjoy the car for a while!

[xsport]

when i did my hydromount few weeks ago, i bought an oil filter removal tool from ebay. it was the type with a chain loop that fits around the filter. it has a 3/8 square drive that you put on your ratchet and just twist it off. fitting was a reversal. strangely no apparent damage was done to the rubbers on the mounts. if its well tightened , i cant see much advantage with a non exact torque setting. as long as they are tight they should be fine in my view. ...