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rab60bit
28th November 2014, 19:42
Just about to go for MOT when the pad wear icon flashed up (thought it was the brake fluid level warning…!):eek:
Just a mention of the pad light in the advisories but a failure on handbrake efficiency (and a marginal rear tyre) meant me getting the thing jacked up and a couple of hours of adjustment etc. Took the opportunity to check the rear pads which appeared to have plenty of life but the discs are lipped and a bit rough - but they will do for the winter.
So I guess it's the front pads that triggered the alarm. These and the discs were renewed by the previous owner not long before I got the car and the discs are still in very good condition but since the fronts take +60% of the load I'm not scimping. I'm going for genuine pads from Howards, my question for you that know - do I need anything else on standby before I start pulling it to bits?

Fusilier
28th November 2014, 20:13
Just about to go for MOT when the pad wear icon flashed up (thought it was the brake fluid level warning…!):eek:
Just a mention of the pad light in the advisories but a failure on handbrake efficiency (and a marginal rear tyre) meant me getting the thing jacked up and a couple of hours of adjustment etc. Took the opportunity to check the rear pads which appeared to have plenty of life but the discs are lipped and a bit rough - but they will do for the winter.
So I guess it's the front pads that triggered the alarm. These and the discs were renewed by the previous owner not long before I got the car and the discs are still in very good condition but since the fronts take +60% of the load I'm not scimping. I'm going for genuine pads from Howards, my question for you that know - do I need anything else on standby before I start pulling it to bits?

John

Make sure that you have got all the right tools before starting, 7mm Allen key, small screwdriver and a 15mm spanner, and a wind back tool or a good G clamp for pushing the piston back in, best to push back and use the old pads if using a G Clamp, and also make sure that you copper grease the new pads at the back before putting them in

Have a read of this first

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=149


Stu

rab60bit
28th November 2014, 22:20
I found/read your excellent 'how to' before I posted.
Got all the tools/copper grease (no windback tool but if you have ever tried to do the same thing on a Citroen - the old GS1220 with inboard brakes - the R75 by comparison is a piece of cake). It was more a question of "are there any other parts that might need replacing" i.e. wear or ABS sensor leads or anything else that might hold up getting it finished in a couple/3 hours.

RogerHeinz57
28th November 2014, 22:39
I found/read your excellent 'how to' before I posted.
Got all the tools/copper grease (no windback tool but if you have ever tried to do the same thing on a Citroen - the old GS1220 with inboard brakes - the R75 by comparison is a piece of cake). It was more a question of "are there any other parts that might need replacing" i.e. wear or ABS sensor leads or anything else that might hold up getting it finished in a couple/3 hours.

Hi, I would purchase a replacement Front pad wear sensor and a tin of brake cleaner spray. Also a file is useful to clean the pad carrier surface, these are not usually cleaned by the so called professionals, but worth the extra time to get things clean so they work properly as well.
Hope this helps.

andrewinpopayan
29th November 2014, 11:59
hand brake is controlled by the inner shoes.