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rich17865
28th November 2014, 22:17
For those of us lucky enough to have one, the rear anti roll bar is mounted with two bushes in U brackets.

The 4 bolts holding these brackets to the car are made of complete rubbish. The heads have rounded off on every one I have done on two different cars.

If you are planning on removing yours, have some M8x20mm flanged stainless bolts to replace them with. Readily available from ebay for a couple of quid.

The bushes are also readily available and I suspect that everyone will need to replace them by now as age will be getting them. My 2003 car at 30k miles needs a pair. Rgx101090 is the part number.

rich17865
2nd December 2014, 16:36
Here is the original bolt with a 10mm hex head, against a standard M8 bolt with a 13mm head.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0260_zpspzzlu12d.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0260_zpspzzlu12d.jpg.html)

Roverite
3rd December 2014, 14:49
Just out of interest, can a rear ARB be fitted to cars that don't have one? Presumably, there are tapped holes for those bolts, but are the holes still present on a non ARB car and if so, are they tapped? Could help those that think the R40 is tail happy.

Roverite.

victorgte
3rd December 2014, 14:57
Just out of interest, can a rear ARB be fitted to cars that don't have one? Presumably, there are tapped holes for those bolts, but are the holes still present on a non ARB car and if so, are they tapped? Could help those that think the R40 is tail happy.

Roverite.
Was looking for an answer to this question myself. I have a ARB and need the bolts and bushes so it can be fitted.

milford man
3rd December 2014, 15:14
Just out of interest, can a rear ARB be fitted to cars that don't have one? Presumably, there are tapped holes for those bolts, but are the holes still present on a non ARB car and if so, are they tapped? Could help those that think the R40 is tail happy.

Roverite.
Yes is the answer. I did mine last year and it does make a difference.

Regards John

trimani
3rd December 2014, 21:53
[QUOTE=rich17865;1852714]For those of us lucky enough to have one, the rear anti roll bar is mounted with two bushes in U brackets.

The 4 bolts holding these brackets to the car are made of complete rubbish. The heads have rounded off on every one I have done on two different cars.

If you are planning on removing yours, have some M8x20mm flanged stainless bolts to replace them with. Readily available from ebay for a couple of quid.

The bushes are also readily available and I suspect that everyone will need to replace them by now as age will be getting them. My 2003 car at 30k miles needs a pair. Rgx101090 is the part number.[/QUOTE

Hi Rich17865

Very timely thread for me.

I am gradually collecting up the parts to have my back end suspension sorted. It is very, very rusted, especially sub frame, so I thought best to change it.

So far I have collected up a good Sub Frame, New Upper Rear Suspension Arms from DMGRS, Still to get a different Rear Anti-roll Bar & Bushes, & Bolts, plus New Rear Springs.
I have been trying to get all new fixing nuts and bolts, to make the job as easy as possible.

I will be rustproofing everything before it goes back on the car, even the new parts.
Your info is very useful. Just a simple question is the bush no. a Rimmers part.

If there is any other advice you can give me that you think would help I would be very grateful.

Thank you & Cheers

trimani (Alf)

PS: Looking to replace Rear Shocks as well, any suggestions please ?

rich17865
3rd December 2014, 22:31
Yes, a genuine part number, for all 75 models except V8.

I used genuine springs and shocks too.

trikey
3rd December 2014, 22:39
Dont forget there are two different sizes of anti roll bar, if you are fitting one, may as well go for the thicker version :)

DMGRS
3rd December 2014, 22:42
Just a quick side-note, if you're after the bushes on a budget I have both the R75 and MG ZT rear anti-roll bar bushes for £8.79 a set (pair) here:
R75 / MG ZT Anti Roll Bar Bushes - Rear (http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-75-rear-anti-roll-bar-bush-kit-rgx101090)

Both are First Line, and seem up to the job.

trimani
3rd December 2014, 23:35
Just a quick side-note, if you're after the bushes on a budget I have both the R75 and MG ZT rear anti-roll bar bushes for £8.79 a set (pair) here:
R75 / MG ZT Anti Roll Bar Bushes - Rear (http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-75-rear-anti-roll-bar-bush-kit-rgx101090)

Both are First Line, and seem up to the job.

Hi Mat,

Yes I do like to save a few 'Bob', but when it comes to 'Bushes' & Balljoints'
I do tend to try and get OEM if possible. Other parts like your Upper Rear Suspension Arms, are another matter. You already have my paid order.
No offence meant Mat :Snow:
trimani (Alf)

rich17865
4th December 2014, 06:52
Dont forget there are two different sizes of anti roll bar, if you are fitting one, may as well go for the thicker version :)

Is that the difference between the 75 and ZT rear anti roll bar?

marinabrian
4th December 2014, 06:55
Is that the difference between the 75 and ZT rear anti roll bar?

Yes, and buy a decent socket set, and stop rounding off the bolts young man :p:

Brian :snowfight1:

rich17865
4th December 2014, 07:04
Yes, and buy a decent socket set, and stop rounding off the bolts young man :p:

Brian :snowfight1:

Thanks Bri, I used a six point 1/2" impact socket with a standard ratchet :shrug:

I absolve myself of responsibility in this case and entirely blame mgr for using daft bolt head sizes and parts sourced from McDonald's Happy Meals. :D :duh::snowfight1:

Jakg
4th December 2014, 08:16
How can you tell if the rear roll bar bushes need replacing?

I did the front ones with powerflex bushes because I could but the ones that came off looked fine.

rich17865
4th December 2014, 08:36
I will take a photo of mine later, shininess where the bar is turning inside the rubber is a fair sign.

T-Cut
4th December 2014, 10:29
Don't know if it's important, but when MGR removed the rear ARB during Project Drive (PD), they re-tuned the rear suspension to compensate. I wonder therefore that fitting an ARB to a later model will return the suspension to the same tune as pre-PD models.

TC

trimani
4th December 2014, 11:14
Dont forget there are two different sizes of anti roll bar, if you are fitting one, may as well go for the thicker version :)

Hi trikey

Can you tell what the thicker size is, and where it is available from. Same question for Bushes and Link Arms. Would you recommend 'Powerflex' Bushes for these ?

Any information and advice welcome . Thank you .

Cheers

trimani (Alf)

DMGRS
4th December 2014, 12:25
Hi Mat,

Yes I do like to save a few 'Bob', but when it comes to 'Bushes' & Balljoints'
I do tend to try and get OEM if possible. Other parts like your Upper Rear Suspension Arms, are another matter. You already have my paid order.
No offence meant Mat :Snow:
trimani (Alf)

None taken - I also share your view when it comes to certain things. :)

Roverite
4th December 2014, 14:30
Don't know if it's important, but when MGR removed the rear ARB during Project Drive (PD), they re-tuned the rear suspension to compensate. I wonder therefore that fitting an ARB to a later model will return the suspension to the same tune as pre-PD models.

TC

That is an excellent point; if my memory serves me correctly, I think MGR deleted the rear ARB and substituted a big rubber 'blob' thing at the bottom of each rear shock absorber, as compensation (I have those on mine), but I can't remember what effect they were supposed to have.

Actually, I am a great fan of ARBs and fitted a thicker one to the front of my ex 1956 Rover P4 90, which almost eliminated the understeer that the 6 cylinder P4s are known for. They actually have a dual effect by limiting the movement of the wheel being affected and at the same time, the force helps to push the opposite side wheel in the opposite direction (up or down), which partially eliminates 'roll' on corners and keeps the weight and traction of both wheels at the maximum. Their advantage over stiffer suspension springs and shock absorbers, is that the straight road ride quality is unaffected.

Anti roll bars are actually a kind of torsion bar, as often used on some older cars, most famously on Morris Minors, but used on Jowet Javelins (I think front and rear). They were mostly steel rod types, but the Rover P5 3 Litre and P5B, actually used a laminated set of flat blades, similar to a leaf spring. The advantages of torsion bar suspension are their compactness, the elimination of the road spring (coil or leaf) and the fact that the suspension is height adjustable by using a spanner. The only problem I have ever heard of, is that if removed (Morris Minor), they should be refitted to the same side, otherwise opposite rotation to previous use can cause them to break from metal fatigue. Incidentally, they are usually fitted longitudinally, as opposed to laterally, like our ARBs.

Unless I have missed it, I can't see that it has been confirmed that the tapped holes carry over to later models, although, from the general comments, I assume they do. Anyway, thanks for all the replies; sounds very tempting!

Roverite.

Jakg
4th December 2014, 14:49
That is an excellent point; if my memory serves me correctly, I think MGR deleted the rear ARB and substituted a big rubber 'blob' thing at the bottom of each rear shock absorber, as compensation (I have those on mine), but I can't remember what effect they were supposed to have.
The "blob" was linked to removing sound insulation (parcel shelf I think).

My ZT has the "blob" and a rear ARB as well.

T-Cut
4th December 2014, 17:49
From the Project Drive thread:
4th March 2002 / from VIN 250641 – 75 Diesel saloon with 16” & 17” wheels
The Butyl sound absorbent material was deleted from the rear parcel shelf. On vehicles with 16” & 17” wheels a ‘Dynamic Absorber’ was then required to reduce transmitted road noise to an acceptable level. This Dynamic Absorber was fitted to the base of the rear suspension dampers. In addition, all ZT models had the Dynamic Absorber fitted.

TC

Roverite
5th December 2014, 13:34
From the Project Drive thread:
4th March 2002 / from VIN 250641 – 75 Diesel saloon with 16” & 17” wheels
The Butyl sound absorbent material was deleted from the rear parcel shelf. On vehicles with 16” & 17” wheels a ‘Dynamic Absorber’ was then required to reduce transmitted road noise to an acceptable level. This Dynamic Absorber was fitted to the base of the rear suspension dampers. In addition, all ZT models had the Dynamic Absorber fitted.

TC

Many thanks. I wonder what the financial saving of a bit of felt, set against the cost of the two rubber sound dampers, was?

I looked at Rimmer's parts list and they seem to list the ARB fittings up to 2005, which seems strange. Also, some of the bits are NLA, and it would cost a few bob in parts alone.

Roverite.

trimani
6th December 2014, 22:28
Dont forget there are two different sizes of anti roll bar, if you are fitting one, may as well go for the thicker version :)

Hi trikey,

Have seen following on ebay

ROVER 75 MG ZT SALOON REAR ANTI-ROLL / SWAY BAR ,23 MM DIAMETER (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300655490316?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)( 300655490316 )

This seems to be the thicker one. Do you think it would be suitable for my V6 2ltr 2001 Saloon Connie SE. Auto.
If so where would I get the extra size 'Bushes & Fittings' from ?

Thanks for your advice so far.
trimani (Alf)

trimani
7th December 2014, 15:58
Little Bump

trimani (Alf) :Snow:

rich17865
7th December 2014, 18:16
I have just been out for a good drive and the car is fabulous, I thought it was good before. Now it is like it is on rails!

trikey
7th December 2014, 20:41
Little Bump

trimani (Alf) :Snow:

Hi Alf, all the rear anti roll bars are interchangeable between models, Rimmers did have some new ones at really good prices, the bushes and brackets are still available as a Land Rover part as the mg rover ones are listed as nla.

trimani
8th December 2014, 13:58
Hi Alf, all the rear anti roll bars are interchangeable between models, Rimmers did have some new ones at really good prices, the bushes and brackets are still available as a Land Rover part as the mg rover ones are listed as nla.

Hi trikey

Thanks for info.

Which model Land Rover should I be looking at ?

How can I tell if they are 18mm or 23mm. They don't seem to quote a part.
I don't want to buy the 23mm one on ebay, then can't get bushes and fixings.
What is your opinion of fitting a 23mm one ?

Any advice would be welcome.

Thank you

trimani (Alf)

VVC-Geeza
8th December 2014, 15:21
Yes well worth fitting an ARB if you don't already have one.I have a ZT one and together with the Eibach lowering springs it has completely eliminated body roll.

rich17865
8th December 2014, 17:03
Here is a photo of my old bush, the dark area is where the bar has been rotating in the bush and has polished it.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/output_zpsnvnht1u8.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/output_zpsnvnht1u8.jpg.html)

75driver
8th December 2014, 17:32
Hi trikey

Thanks for info.

Which model Land Rover should I be looking at ?

How can I tell if they are 18mm or 23mm. They don't seem to quote a part.
I don't want to buy the 23mm one on ebay, then can't get bushes and fixings.
What is your opinion of fitting a 23mm one ?

Any advice would be welcome.

Thank you

trimani (Alf)


Hi Alf,
I recently installed a rear arb, purchased from Steveo on here.

- 23mm roll bar RGB00090.

One of the breakers on here should be able to sort you out with the 2 u bracket from a zt, which will be 23mm. (Seancar did for me).😄

Bushes, bolts and nuts are all available on rimmers.
42922

Bush: RBX000180 (2 no)
U bracket bolt: FS108207L (4 no)
Etc etc for the drop links.

Ps, the mounting threaded holes for the u bracket bolts will probably be fairly rusted.

I'd recommend lots of wd40, and working the bolts in and out a few times, to clean the threads, prior to fitting the brackets.

trimani
8th December 2014, 19:54
Hi 75driver

Thanks very much for very informative reply. All parts ordered up.
You made it very easy for me, thanks for a great response.

trimani (Alf) :bowdown:

Roverite
11th December 2014, 14:34
Just one little query, which those that have had a rear ARB fitted long term; how do the drop links stand up? Most of us know that the front links cause constant problems, depending on the quality of any replacements fitted, so should we expect a similar wear rate at the rear?

Roverite.

milford man
11th December 2014, 15:04
Just one little query, which those that have had a rear ARB fitted long term; how do the drop links stand up? Most of us know that the front links cause constant problems, depending on the quality of any replacements fitted, so should we expect a similar wear rate at the rear?

Roverite.
Yes is the answer. My car is a 2005 MKII so it never had a ARB. I fitted one early this year (about February). Brand new ARB, new bushes, bolts & drop links. I got the drop links from Rimmer Brothers but went for pattern ones. Went for MOT October and it would of been a fail as the rubbers had split on both.

Regards John

rich17865
11th December 2014, 17:02
Just one little query, which those that have had a rear ARB fitted long term; how do the drop links stand up? Most of us know that the front links cause constant problems, depending on the quality of any replacements fitted, so should we expect a similar wear rate at the rear?

Roverite.

I have only replaced them on my old car because they were old not because there were worn, probably didn't need doing but as I had stripped everything else down, why not.

I have not read much about people changing them either. However they are readily available on ebay.