How To Strip and Rebuild the Fuel Burning Heater

[rich17865]

I have had chance to fully service the FBH, and took a lot of pictures along the way.

You can also use this thread for detailing how to strip down and replace the glow pin if yours has failed.

You will need,

Webasto service kit 9000861A for ThermoTop Z/C

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0037_zpstkwtiltr.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0037_zpstkwtiltr.jpg.html)

These are available from Bowers (http://www.bowerspartsonline.co.uk/eberspacher-webasto-heating), as are any other parts that you may need for your FBH

Philips screwdriver, slotted screwdriver, torx screwdrivers T10, T15, T20, biological washing powder, large washing up bowl and an old toothbrush.

With the FBH removed from the car and ideally on a worksurface,

Remove the spring clip from the inlet silencer, and remove the inlet silencer.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0018_zpsl4sxdmfx.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0018_zpsl4sxdmfx.jpg.html)

Now remove the four philips screws holding the black plastic cover on the top of the unit.

This will uncover the printed circuit board.

Unclip the next plastic cover on top, this will uncover the plugs for the pump, fan and glow pin.

Unplug the three plugs, no need to note which holes they go into as they are keyed and will only go into the correct hole upon reassembly.

Remove the torx T15 screw in the circuit board and remove the spring clip, you can now remove the circuit board. This can be sent to FrenchMike for repair should it be necessary.

With the two covers removed and circuit board removed also, the FBH should now look like this.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0076_zpstmfosox4.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0076_zpstmfosox4.jpg.html)

There is no need to remove the third plastic cover unless you are having problems with the blower fan. Fan problems are unlikely as the FBH has an inlet silencer fitted which stops detritus getting into the unit.

Remove the water pump wiring from the recess.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0020_zps8il7jp7n.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0020_zps8il7jp7n.jpg.html)

Remove the torx T20 screw from the water pump clamp. Discard the screw.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0022_zpst5mh74il.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0022_zpst5mh74il.jpg.html)

Loosen the spring clamp for the water pipe from the FBH to the water pump, then remove the water pump.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0023_zpsvzqhfkkq.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0023_zpsvzqhfkkq.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0024_zpsx8dqrixb.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0024_zpsx8dqrixb.jpg.html)

Remove the following torx T20 screws. Discard the screws.

Three shown here,

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0025_zpsukepfquz.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0025_zpsukepfquz.jpg.html)

One here,

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0026_zpsn4iwyqb5.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0026_zpsn4iwyqb5.jpg.html)

One here,

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0027_zpse0qvoerq.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0027_zpse0qvoerq.jpg.html)

Now you can separate the blower motor housing and blower fan assembly from the burner and heat exchanger. Be careful as the fuel pipe fits through the housing and is attached to the burner assembly.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0028_zpsr92cibbf.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0028_zpsr92cibbf.jpg.html)

With the blower motor assembly removed, you can see the burner chamber and heat exchanger. Note the fuel pipe sticking up.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0029_zpst6c6fred.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0029_zpst6c6fred.jpg.html)

Remove this seal and discard it.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0030_zpsathyesrj.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0030_zpsathyesrj.jpg.html)

Lift the glow pin wiring grommet out of the body.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0032_zpshek68rum.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0032_zpshek68rum.jpg.html)

Remove the four torx T20 screws from the burner assembly. Discard these screws.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0031_zpsm2o8atfd.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0031_zpsm2o8atfd.jpg.html)

Lift the burner assembly from the heat exchanger.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0035_zpsyknhiygq.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0035_zpsyknhiygq.jpg.html)

You can now remove this spring clip and withdraw the glow pin.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0034_zpsepmlqeex.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0034_zpsepmlqeex.jpg.html)

Remove these four torx T20 screws.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0038_zpscyvpr9tq.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0038_zpscyvpr9tq.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0039_zpsxtfgdvaj.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0039_zpsxtfgdvaj.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0040_zpsrddtu5nb.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0040_zpsrddtu5nb.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0041_zpszku2n8um.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0041_zpszku2n8um.jpg.html)

You will now be able to separate the exhaust section from the main heat exchanger body. You will be able to see a even coating of soot with often some ash in the bottom of the heat exchanger.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0043_zpssexawwil.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0043_zpssexawwil.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0042_zpsskefcyys.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0042_zpsskefcyys.jpg.html)

The two water pipe connections and the main body parts are sealed with these seals. Note that these do not come with the service kit above and need to be kept for reassembly.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0044_zps5jclr2bn.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0044_zps5jclr2bn.jpg.html)

If you take a look at the burner assembly, it may seem clean at first inspection. However, look carefully inside as you will be able to see large bits of carbon inside.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0045_zpsvviqv2qn.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0045_zpsvviqv2qn.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0046_zpsywbz7ppg.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0046_zpsywbz7ppg.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0047_zpsmipo78fl.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0047_zpsmipo78fl.jpg.html)

Carefully scrape away as much of this carbon as possible. This is the cause of a smoking FBH and also non starting FBH (assuming the PCB is working). There are a number of small airway holes inside that are vital to the proper combustion that get clogged and bust be cleaned.

Be careful not to damage the metal gauze in the bottom of the burner assembly. It is non replaceable and will result in you needing a replacement burner assembly!!

You can see here some of what was scraped out of this one.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0048_zpsgm3iythw.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0048_zpsgm3iythw.jpg.html)

Take the heat exchanger, exhaust section and burner assembly and put them in the wife's best washing up bowl.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-1420902958530-V_zps3iyhrqyt.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-1420902958530-V_zps3iyhrqyt.jpg.html)

Put in about half a mug of biological washing powder and fill with very hot water until all of the parts are covered. You will see the washing powder start to dissolve the carbon straight away.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-1420904605309-V_zpsxasqj9zu.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-1420904605309-V_zpsxasqj9zu.jpg.html)

Leave the parts in the mixture overnight, or until the water and bubbles stop moving of their own accord. When the washing powder can do no more cleaning, it will look like this.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0057_zpsecmsu8oc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0057_zpsecmsu8oc.jpg.html)

The cleaned parts will need a little agitation under running water with an old toothbrush and the carbon will just brush away, leaving you with clean parts like this.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0059_zpsb9xes90c.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0059_zpsb9xes90c.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0060_zpsvo6w9brv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0060_zpsvo6w9brv.jpg.html)

You will need to run the burner assembly under the water too, making sure to scrub inside thoroughly with the toothbrush until bits stop coming out in the flushing water. Make sure that any holes you can see are clear of carbon.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0061_zpsyy0xkwa3.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0061_zpsyy0xkwa3.jpg.html)

MAKE SURE YOU RINSE ALL THREE PARTS IN PLENTY OF CLEAN WATER TO REMOVE ANY TRACES OF WASHING POWDER

Take the water pump and remove the four torx T10 screws holding the two halves together and separate the pump.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0051_zpsrphic0vv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0051_zpsrphic0vv.jpg.html)

You will see the impeller, held down with a C clip.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0053_zpswuiyrbrd.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0053_zpswuiyrbrd.jpg.html)

Carefully remove the C clip and washer and lift the impeller off the spindle. Be careful as there is a second washer on the spindle under the impeller.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0052_zpsmysy3uuz.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0052_zpsmysy3uuz.jpg.html)

Clean the impeller and pump and reassemble. This one was quite clean, but you may find a lot of scuzz in there.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0055_zpse25gffqf.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0055_zpse25gffqf.jpg.html)

Take the heat exchanger and exhaust assembly. Carefully refitting the rubber seals you saved from earlier.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0063_zpsbdwdswzk.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0063_zpsbdwdswzk.jpg.html)

Screw the two halves together using the long torx T20 screws. You will notice they are similar to the PCB screws, so make sure you are using the right ones as they have different thread pitches.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0062_zpsgbl7s7jc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0062_zpsgbl7s7jc.jpg.html)

Refit the glow pin to the burner assembly, and refit the clip.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0065_zpsyphejyiu.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0065_zpsyphejyiu.jpg.html)

Now fit the new burner assembly gasket. It is very uncommon for these to be reuseable.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0064_zpsadye4o5m.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0064_zpsadye4o5m.jpg.html)

And refit the burner assembly, using the new screws supplied with the service kit.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0067_zpsmkweoks4.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0067_zpsmkweoks4.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0066_zpsrgg3i8xu.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0066_zpsrgg3i8xu.jpg.html)

Re route the glow pin wiring, fitting the rubber grommet to the body.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0069_zpsg0s4nf7h.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0069_zpsg0s4nf7h.jpg.html)

Take the rubber gasket and fit it to the blower motor assembly, there are locating pegs and only fits one way. The green paper gasket is not used for this type of FBH and can be discarded.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0070_zpsrhpazqjc.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0070_zpsrhpazqjc.jpg.html)

Replace the fuel pipe rubber seal with the new one supplied with the service kit.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0049_zpsuwxoiauv.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0049_zpsuwxoiauv.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0050_zps9yv46skz.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0050_zps9yv46skz.jpg.html)

Screw the blower motor assembly to the heat exchanger / burner assembly using the new screws. Remember that the fuel pipe fits through the blower assembly, so be careful.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0071_zpstmxjeomd.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0071_zpstmxjeomd.jpg.html)

Refit the water pump, pipe clip and pump clip. Screw the pump clip down using the remaining new screw.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0074_zpsbyl1hv7i.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0074_zpsbyl1hv7i.jpg.html)

Reroute the water pump wiring.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0075_zpsiiiaacmz.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0075_zpsiiiaacmz.jpg.html)

Refit the body to PCB gasket.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0076_zpstmfosox4.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0076_zpstmfosox4.jpg.html)

Refit the PCB, the spring clip and torx T15 screw, plug in the wires and refit the PCB cover with the long philips screws and then clip on the plugs cover.

Finally refit the inlet silencer and spring clip.

The FBH is ready for refitting to the car.

There are no photos of the PCB removal or refitting as the FBH I stripped was missing this part. I am sure you can work those bits out for yourself ;)

EDIT:

It has been brought to my attention, thanks to bartonrover that there is a variation to the burner assembly for the earlier FBH unit.

The glow pin is not held in with a spring clip as per my photos above, it is held in with a threaded stud that has an allen key hole in the end and locked into place with a nut. There is also a very small metal plate that fits on the glow pin, which I assume is a spreader plate so that the threaded stud doesn't damage the glow pin when tightened up. Be careful when removing it as it could be easily lost.

See the following photos,

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/one1_zpsqohnkjfb.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/one1_zpsqohnkjfb.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/one2_zpsiurlpiof.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/one2_zpsiurlpiof.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/one_zpsjtd26itf.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/one_zpsjtd26itf.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/rich17865/one3_zpsfdciswp3.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/rich17865/media/one3_zpsfdciswp3.jpg.html)

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result
of you following this How-To.

[vindaloo]

What a great write up as usual!

[Godfer]

Indeed, your 'enthusiasm' knows no bounds and benefits the wider membership greatly. Thank you Sir! :bowdown:

[rich17865]

I don't even have a diesel :D

[J1MBO]

I don't even have a diesel :D

Well not any more ;).

Brilliant how to Rich, thanks :bowdown:, saved for posterity here (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=205275)

[MrDoodles]

Fantastic "How-to" Rich!

Almost makes me want to buy a diesel!

[Spike]

A fine write-up and great to see photos in focus too! Who is it on the Forum who reconditions these and sells them? I don't have one but I could really appreciate it!

[Snetty]

Fantastic "How-to" Rich!

Almost makes me want to buy a diesel!
No need to buy a diesel Mark.......you can refurb mine:D

[macafee2]

Excellent how to, thanks. I may need to do this to one of my units as it did not work
so will follow the how to carefullt along with Harry's


here is a link to the service kit rich mentions
http://shop.airconcoparts.co.uk/9000861A

macafee2

[Heddy]

I'd done a service on my own last year, that's a great write up and fabulous pictures,:}

[brgcdti]

Alternative supplier of service kit :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-WEBASTO-THERMO-TOP-C-E-Z-HEATER-GASKET-SET-SERVICE-KIT-9000861A-/231167849420?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipmen t_Accessories_SM&hash=item35d2ad73cc

[rich17865]

A fine write-up and great to see photos in focus too! Who is it on the Forum who reconditions these and sells them? I don't have one but I could really appreciate it!

You are right, some are in focus :D

Bit shaky and short of light last night.

[rich17865]

Fantastic "How-to" Rich!

Almost makes me want to buy a diesel!

Thanks very much.

You can get petrol and electric varieties of pre heater system.

Although neither are necessary on our cars.

[Arctic]

Great write up with just as excellent how to photo's really enjoyed reading this thread thank you, these are the posts we need to help the newcomers that will be purchasing the 05 -06 plates/regs that are coming to the fore on the forsale circuit now.

[Kennyeth]

Great post Rich, nominate for best how to of the year so far.
I don`t know how busy you are but you could start an exchange refurb service and make some extra dosh??
Ken

[rich17865]

Great post Rich, nominate for best how to of the year so far.
I don`t know how busy you are but you could start an exchange refurb service and make some extra dosh??
Ken

I suspect that there would be a serious lack of people wishing to fork out for the service of them.

When I take into account trader fees, postage and materials, I would be surprised if it is worth it

[rich17865]

I fitted the fbh yesterday, it has started this morning with not even a wisp of smoke.

Most pleased. :)

[Spike]

I suspect that there would be a serious lack of people wishing to fork out for the service of them.

When I take into account trader fees, postage and materials, I would be surprised if it is worth it

I'd happily fork out for a fully reconditioned, working one with a remote!

[vindaloo]

I fitted the fbh yesterday, it has started this morning with not even a wisp of smoke.

Most pleased. :)

Fitted it? No PCB & a petrol engine, I'm impressed👍

[rich17865]

Fitted it? No PCB & a petrol engine, I'm impressed👍

I did the same to my van fbh, and fitted a new blower motor. It is near silent now, most pleased.

[theridler]

Thanks very much for this write up - just right!:}
Do you remember what the model number was for the burner? The reason I ask is that you use the rubber gasket between the blower motor housing and blower fan assembly, where as on my spare unit (older version 66232C...) it uses the paper type gasket & there's distinctly less locating pegs??? Having followed this write up with my spare unit (absolutely no hassles except using wife's, or should I say our..., best washing up bowl!), I'm now ready to attack the one that's playing up in the car (this one's the later version 68570D .... or something like that!). I suppose when I've stripped that one down I'll be able to answer my own question! :-)
Again - really appreciate the how to...

[rich17865]

Thanks very much for this write up - just right!:}
Do you remember what the model number was for the burner? The reason I ask is that you use the rubber gasket between the blower motor housing and blower fan assembly, where as on my spare unit (older version 66232C...) it uses the paper type gasket & there's distinctly less locating pegs??? Having followed this write up with my spare unit (absolutely no hassles except using wife's, or should I say our..., best washing up bowl!), I'm now ready to attack the one that's playing up in the car (this one's the later version 68570D .... or something like that!). I suppose when I've stripped that one down I'll be able to answer my own question! :-)
Again - really appreciate the how to...

This was done on the newer version, so quite possible that you need to use the paper gasket instead of the rubber one. I would replace like for like, the right parts are included in the kit :)

[HarryM1BYT]

This was done on the newer version, so quite possible that you need to use the paper gasket instead of the rubber one. I would replace like for like, the right parts are included in the kit :)

I covered all of this long ago. Replacement gasket sets are really not essential, usually the old ones will be fine to reuse as are the bolts.

Rich suggested scrapping the carbon from the burner gauze. I should point out that the carbon is extremely hard and is unlikely to scrap off, without damage to the gauze and the gaze is not replaceable. The best way is to chip it gently, so as to break it up then it will fall out without damage.

There really is no need to get the heat exchanger spotless, a thin coating of soot will enhance the extraction of heat from the flame.


Other than the above, good write up.

[rich17865]

I covered all of this long ago. Replacement gasket sets are really not essential, usually the old ones will be fine to reuse as are the bolts.

Rich suggested scrapping the carbon from the burner gauze. I should point out that the carbon is extremely hard and is unlikely to scrap off, without damage to the gauze and the gaze is not replaceable. The best way is to chip it gently, so as to break it up then it will fall out without damage.

There really is no need to get the heat exchanger spotless, a thin coating of soot will enhance the extraction of heat from the flame.


Other than the above, good write up.

I have never stripped an fbh that I thought the gaskets could be reused and I have stripped both eberspacher and webasto models. Plus for the pittance the kit costs is it even worth not replacing them?

I do mention being careful with the gauze, but replacement burner assemblies are available should it become damaged.

Soot is an insulator, any buildup will reduce thermal efficiency. I still recommend cleaning the heat exchanger throughly.

These heaters are not maintenance free and like anything else require parts from time to time. The fan and burner assembly are considered service items and are supposed to be replaced as per the heaters service schedule. The how to shows you how to clean the burner assembly which would be replaced if you sent it to an authorised repairer.

[HarryM1BYT]

I have never stripped an fbh that I thought the gaskets could be reused and I have stripped both eberspacher and webasto models. Plus for the pittance the kit costs is it even worth not replacing them?

I do mention being careful with the gauze, but replacement burner assemblies are available should it become damaged.

Soot is an insulator, any buildup will reduce thermal efficiency. I still recommend cleaning the heat exchanger throughly.

These heaters are not maintenance free and like anything else require parts from time to time. The fan and burner assembly are considered service items and are supposed to be replaced as per the heaters service schedule. The how to shows you how to clean the burner assembly which would be replaced if you sent it to an authorised repairer.

What can I say, if spending lots of money on the unnecessary is your thing, please go ahead. Some of the guys on here are trying to keep their cars on the road as economically as possible.

Fully working FBH's can be had for £50 to £80, maybe due a service. A service can be done at no cost and in a couple of hours. I would guess the gasket kit at around £20, burner assembly £150.

Completely out of proportion to the value of the item. Maybe completely out of proportion to the value of the car itself even.

A thick coating of carbon on the heat exchanger would be an insullant, whereas a thin coat would not, it would be beneficial to heat transfer from flame to casting. Hence, best not make it too clean.

The only suspect gasket is perhaps the paper one, the paper one can easily be reproduced at home. The fixing bolts are steel, absolutely no reason to replace them, they are far tougher than the allow they screw into. They are not cylinder head bolts under any stress.

No doubt the manufacturer's service agent does replace these parts, but they charge several hundreds of pounds for a service. We are not bound by the same rules and we can afford to cut our cloth to suit our pockets.

[rich17865]

But a service gasket set isn't unnecessary though is it? And if you cannot afford £15 for a service kit you should not be driving a car.

If you think proper maintenance is completely out of proportion to the value of the item or even the car, again you shouldn't be driving a car.

The fixing bolts are replaced as damage to the torx heads of the bolts by rust or incorrect tools are highly likely.

I understand that people are trying to run their cars economically, which is the very reason I make these how to's.

If I was suggesting everything was done by a garage or service agent I can see your point, but I cannot agree that your cutting corners approach is acceptable.

[HarryM1BYT]

But a service gasket set isn't unnecessary though is it? And if you cannot afford £15 for a service kit you should not be driving a car.


If I was suggesting everything was done by a garage or service agent I can see your point, but I cannot agree that your cutting corners approach is acceptable.

On a none safety critical item and none essential item such as the FBH, it is perfectly acceptable to cut corners as you put it.

Using your idea to wade in and replace things, the cost can easily escalate to that of a brand new unit. Used FBH £80, gasket kit £15, replacement burner £150, PCB repair £50.

Chances of a used FBH not needing a PCB repair, almost nil. So your £80 rapidly becomes £130. To then start adding unnecessary costs on top makes it just plain silly.

I have serviced two, both are still fine 5 years later. Both required their PCB's attended to. Neither required new gaskets or new bolts, or combustion chambers. The bolts are not tight, shouldn't be rusted, so no reason why their heads should be damaged.

I'm not suggesting skimping on tyres, brake pads or anything else safety critical, only an ancillary part which is not even essential to the operation of the car and re-using perfectly serviceable parts, is something all of us can do, with the funds saved, being spent on more safety critical items. This is a luxury item which wasn't fitted to the later cars at all.

I think this is turning into something similar to your diesel versus petrol running cost thread, where you tried to make it appear the diesel was more expensive to run that the petrol, by exaggerating the costs, needs for parts and even left out the fuel costs. Of course it will be, if you bias it by replacing unnecessary parts as in this thread.

With that final parting shot, I will ignore any further posts in this thread.

[DaveyC]

For what its worth, I found it very useful guide and when I stripped mine down (without having read any "how to"), I also used the service kit rather than re-use old parts. Hopefully mine will now last the course. :}

[rich17865]

I am not suggesting you replace the burner, perhaps you need to have another read Harry.

New units are £800.

Anybody fitting an fbh who cannot afford a £15 service kit should not do it. It uses fuel when it is working and they probably cannot afford that either.

There were no costs exaggerated in the other thread, other than for the petrol models.

[theridler]

So... to cheer you guys up a bit.. anyone want a free gasket kit?

[bigalgenesis]

pm sent

all the best

Alan

[theridler]

Oh well that gasket kit was snapped up quickly! Gone now I'm afraid...

[Clickernick]

I think there is no right or wrong approach to servicing and costs.

Some folk will always be happy to spend next to nawt on maintenance and be happy while other will decide to blow some dough on a project within reason.:o

I will be doing this refurb soon on my FBH and whilst I would not buy a new one!! a cost of a sevice kit is reasonable to me over the cost of my cars and the joy I get of working on them.:}

To strip something down and clean it up, and then rebuild it with sacrificed bits and bobs is pure tight fistedness which I don't like to be.:duh:

I know a very 'agricultural' mechanic who always goes for this way of doing things and 75% of his work always needs a second look because of some minor penny pinching exercise like cutting out a paper gasket by hand!:eek:

Reminds me of the days when the wife/girlfriend/whoever would be relived of her tights due to the fan belt braking,,well it works don't it? why replace with a proper item!! :D

[doopydug]

How does an FBH work - does it come on automatically when the temp drops far enough? I cant say I have ever noticed mine working

[Jakg]

How does an FBH work - does it come on automatically when the temp drops far enough? I cant say I have ever noticed mine working

It's diesel only - and not all cars have them.

They come on automatically, but some have a manual override.

[HarryM1BYT]

I know a very 'agricultural' mechanic who always goes for this way of doing things and 75% of his work always needs a second look because of some minor penny pinching exercise like cutting out a paper gasket by hand!:eek:



If the home made item is as good or better than the original, why not?

I have never bought a paper gasket, if all I need is the paper gasket, because they are as good and certainly quicker to make than to source. Ability to make paper gaskets was standard practise for ALL mechanics, back in the day, which was when I learned to make them.

When doing any job where you mix old and new, a crucial part of the job is assessing what can be reused and what must be replaced. It is just as crucial when rebuilding something like an FBH. My aim when working on such things, is to simply bring it to a standard where my work will 'see out' the rest of the unit.

When I rebuilt my FBH, I found the gaskets were fine for reuse, but the paper gasket had a split. As the joint wasn't under any pressure, I decided to just push the split together and reassemble. My decision must have been the correct one, for five years later, mine is still functioning perfectly.

Taking this argument a stage further - how many of you are doing the sensible thing and fitting good used parts for none critical replacement parts for the car?

I doubt there is anyone on this forum who doesn't. The same principle exactly.

You want new, buy a new car - not a 10+ year old one, then start replacing everything with unnecessary new parts.

Some 30 years ago, I was tasked with rebuilding the engine revolution counter for a Hull Ferry which was undergoing refurb.. Not part of my usual duties, the company were mechanical engineers, I was the electrical engineer, but with time on my hands and a reputation of being able to fix almost anything. The gearing was shot, the casing was shot, its bushing were shot. There really was nothing to be done with it, yet that ferry had to sale on time in two weeks. I made clear it was completely shot, but the maker was long gone. All I could do was clean it out, put it together and hope for the best. That ferry sailed, but I doubt the revolution counter survived its first trip.

[HarryM1BYT]

How does an FBH work - does it come on automatically when the temp drops far enough? I cant say I have ever noticed mine working

Click the link in my sig, to read the full explanation, but...

It should start up when the engine is started and the ambient outside temperature is below +5C and the coolant is below 77C.

My write up (in the link) suggests how you can test it, by bypassing the above automatic start system.

[trebor]

My FBH was blowing lots of white smoke, so decided to use this excellent how to and set about servicing it using the gasket set referred to, and glad I did as the combustion chamber gasket disintegrated when I took the FBH apart so needed the one in the set.

Anyway all back and working fine with clouds of white smoke gone, removed lots of carbon from the heat exchanger in tbe process and washed out the sponge in the air filter pipe.

I only had one issue and that is there was some smoke coming from the air filter whilst i tested the FBH as a parking heater, not all the time but thought it unusual, does anyone know if this is anything to be concerned about ?

[rich17865]

The fan should run to blow any smoke out of the unit once it has stopped burning.

Are you sure it was smoke and not steam as you have cleaned the inlet foam?

[trebor]

The fan should run to blow any smoke out of the unit once it has stopped burning.

Are you sure it was smoke and not steam as you have cleaned the inlet foam?

Thanks Rich I did think about steam as the sponge was still damp when it went back in, so will keep an eye on it and test it again tomorrow

[rich17865]

Thanks Rich I did think about steam as the sponge was still damp when it went back in, so will keep an eye on it and test it again tomorrow

I found a lot of steam comes from any spilled coolant too as it heats pipes and other things that may have splashes on.

[HarryM1BYT]

I only had one issue and that is there was some smoke coming from the air filter whilst i tested the FBH as a parking heater, not all the time but thought it unusual, does anyone know if this is anything to be concerned about ?

That is probably the result of a misfire, the white mist is fuel mist, so be very careful with naked flames around it.

The inside of the FBH is warm / hot and due to a misfire it is filled with unburned fuel mist. The air fan has shut down and the natural airflow due to the warmth is to rise. Air rises up the exhaust flue, through the combustion chamber and exits via the rubber pipe air filter dragging the fuel mist along with it.

In really cold weather, you can get moisture condensing on the FBH plus the flue, but that is obvious. There is not normally any heat rising into the filter, so that being damp is unlikely to be the cause.

[trebor]

Thanks Harry tested again today as parking heater and nothing from the air filter pipe on this occasion, i do have some steam lower down but the culprit is the stocking I have over the exhaust pipe which had coolant spilled on it when the heater was taken off and is drying out, currently have the battery on charge as the car has not been out since Wednesday and after the testing off the serviced FBH a few times it's taken its toll but back at work tomorrow with a 50 mile round motorway trip so charge will be put back in

[rich17865]

Thanks to bartonrover who has identified a variance in the burner assembly for the earlier units, the opening post has been updated to include additional information.

[rich17865]

Felt the freshness in the morning air through the window today. Winter is coming, get your FBH serviced before it is too cold outside and you really don't want to be out working in it :D

[Tasng4]

HI,
I realise this post is 4 years old but the photos are unavailable, to me at least, I need to do this service. Any chance you have an original document with photos?

[trebor]

I have replied at post 14 on the other thread

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=291871&page=2

[HarryM1BYT]

HI,
I realise this post is 4 years old but the photos are unavailable, to me at least, I need to do this service. Any chance you have an original document with photos?

Months ago someone provided a link to a download, were they had copied my 'how to' complete with my original photos to a pdf, before PB had struck..