My CDTi belt/crank pulley change saga

[EastPete]

As a relative newbie attacking this job for the first time, I thought I would run a thread on this, to seek help when I hit problems, but also in the hope that it may be useful for others thinking of doing this job for the first time on their cars. Experienced members who have done this job many times before will probably wonder what all the fuss is about, but it always easy when you know how !

The auxillary belts on my car look OK, with only 36K on the clock, but have never been changed since the car left the factory in 2005. Also, in an attempt to deal with continuing problems with vibrations emanating from the offside engine/inner wing area, with some characteristic clicking/ slapping noise at idle from the pulley area, I decided to splash out and change the pulley to see if it quietened things down (I have already done the hydramount, which helped to some extent). I have a genuine Corteco item from DMGRS.

I am in no hurry to complete the job, so spent about an hour in the garage this afternoon on the initial part of the job. Jacked up the car onto axle stands under the front jacking points, removed the offside wheel. Removed the undertray and engine top cover and air intake from the top of the engine. Removed the offside wheel arch liner, as per Haynes manual - relatively straightforward except I have front mudflaps, which took a bit of persuading to come off (lots of crud behind them - I must clean up and waxoyl behind there before putting them back on).

So far so good - just thought I would see if the two long 24 mm spanners I have would fit over the belt tensioner. First problem - both spanners are too thick to clear the inner wing and fit over the tensioner bolt, even though one of them is a slimline aviation spanner reported by someone on here to be ideal for this job (picture below). I am going away to sleep on this, but initial thought is that I might loosen the lower engine mount and the two 15mm bolts on the bracket over the hydramount, so see if I can shift the engine a new millimetres sideways to allow the spanner to go over the tensioner bolt head - I only need 3-4 mm I think to give it enough room. I may try that tomorrow, but if that fails, I may have to contact Harry on here for loan of the special tool for doing the belts. I haven't even got to the pulley bolt yet !!

Anyway, I will try to post updates as the job progresses for anyone that is interested - all comments, suggestions, ridicule, abuse etc. will be of interest !

Thanks

Pete

[Alan123]

As a relative newbie attacking this job for the first time, I thought I would run a thread on this, to seek help when I hit problems, but also in the hope that it may be useful for others thinking of doing this job for the first time on their cars. Experienced members who have done this job many times before will probably wonder what all the fuss is about, but it always easy when you know how !

The auxillary belts on my car look OK, with only 36K on the clock, but have never been changed since the car left the factory in 2005. Also, in an attempt to deal with continuing problems with vibrations emanating from the offside engine/inner wing area, with some characteristic clicking/ slapping noise at idle from the pulley area, I decided to splash out and change the pulley to see if it quietened things down (I have already done the hydramount, which helped to some extent). I have a genuine Corteco item from DMGRS.

I am in no hurry to complete the job, so spent about an hour in the garage this afternoon on the initial part of the job. Jacked up the car onto axle stands under the front jacking points, removed the offside wheel. Removed the undertray and engine top cover and air intake from the top of the engine. Removed the offside wheel arch liner, as per Haynes manual - relatively straightforward except I have front mudflaps, which took a bit of persuading to come off (lots of crud behind them - I must clean up and waxoyl behind there before putting them back on).

So far so good - just thought I would see if the two long 24 mm spanners I have would fit over the belt tensioner. First problem - both spanners are too thick to clear the inner wing and fit over the tensioner bolt, even though one of them is a slimline aviation spanner reported by someone on here to be ideal for this job (picture below). I am going away to sleep on this, but initial thought is that I might loosen the lower engine mount and the two 15mm bolts on the bracket over the hydramount, so see if I can shift the engine a new millimetres sideways to allow the spanner to go over the tensioner bolt head - I only need 3-4 mm I think to give it enough room. I may try that tomorrow, but if that fails, I may have to contact Harry on here for loan of the special tool for doing the belts. I haven't even got to the pulley bolt yet !!

Anyway, I will try to post updates as the job progresses for anyone that is interested - all comments, suggestions, ridicule, abuse etc. will be of interest !

Thanks

Pete I've heard they can be a pain in the ass
Hence got garage to do it £28 labour.
I would of love to of done it myself but I was ill at the time it went so it was worth the cost at the time

[first-things-first]

Sounds like you have the same tight access to tensioner I had. No spanner (including Harry's proper jobbie) could be put on the 24mm nut.

Not trying to sound negative. You are having a go which is the main part.

I got belt off reasonably easy by going via the top (with top mount off and engine on jack) and used a ground down 24mm ring spanner.

There was a lot of tension to release.

To get new belt back on, in the end I tried going via the top with the same ground down spanner and nearly got it back on. Just a little more leverage that I could not apply due to mounts and air con pipes.

Had to give up in the end. Got garage to do it. He went via top method as well.

I believe you will have better luck than me.

If you feel alright with it, I would suggest taking a bit off the spanner to get in the gap between the wing and nut. Or jacking the engine up may well help to give more access.

[EastPete]

I am beginning to regret starting this job - not enjoying it at all !

I have just spent another hour out the garage. Tweaking the engine mounts did not provide any more room for the 24mm spanner, so I got out the angle grinder and took a couple of millimetres off the ring spanner. Good news: it now fitted (just) onto the tensioner nut. Bad news - when it turned, even after several anti-clockwise turns, nothing appeared to happen to the belt tension. Looking closely, the nut at the back of the tensioner seems to be turning when the 24mm nut on the outside is turned - is this meant to happen, or do I need to get a spanner onto the smaller nut at the back ? (looks well nigh impossible to get anything in there !)

All suggestions gratefully received.

Off to lunch now !

Thanks

Pete

[first-things-first]

Oh dear. Looks like another with exactly my problems.

The tensioner pulley sits on an arm and hangs down or up (not sure which one at mo). When you come at it from a high angle (about 8 o'clock) you are pushing against the tension but in the wrong way - pushing it against the front of the car. It will seem to tension but when released does not spring back.

The technique is to start from around 6 o'clock ish then the force is applied to back of car by anti clockwise movement.

Hope this helps. I thought my tensioner nut was moving as well due to this lack of tension.

As I said previously if you come from above you can start at slam panel and go back towards car - needs mount removed and engine on jack ...

Another had a problem with nut behind tensioner - see here. http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=201266&highlight=tensioner

Best of luck.

[mickm1]

Mines in with Cossie Dunc from here just now to replace crank shaft pulley. Thought my car was about to explode with the racket it was making so picked up the corteco one yesterday. :}

[Departed 32016]

Mines in with Cossie Dunc from here just now to replace crank shaft pulley. Thought my car was about to explode with the racket it was making so picked up the corteco one yesterday. :}

Do you mind me asking the cost, did you supply the parts

[EastPete]

Oh dear. Looks like another with exactly my problems.

The tensioner pulley sits on an arm and hangs down or up (not sure which one at mo). When you come at it from a high angle (about 8 o'clock) you are pushing against the tension but in the wrong way - pushing it against the front of the car. It will seem to tension but when released does not spring back.

The technique is to start from around 6 o'clock ish then the force is applied to back of car by anti clockwise movement.

Hope this helps. I thought my tensioner nut was moving as well due to this lack of tension.

As I said previously if you come from above you can start at slam panel and go back towards car - needs mount removed and engine on jack ...

Another had a problem with nut behind tensioner - see here. http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=201266&highlight=tensioner

Best of luck.


Thanks Andrew

I may go for removing the top engine mount as the next step, as you suggest.

Two questions:
1. Is the nut on the back of the tensioner supposed to turn at the same time as the 24mm nut on the front ?? I was not sure.

2. What should it feel like as the tensioner is 'undone' - it just felt like a normal bolt turning when I tried it this morning - should there be a spring you are fighting against, or a sudden release of tension at some point ? . The Haynes manual suggests you just need to turn the nut a short way anti-clockwise and the tension will come off the belts, but perhaps it does not work like that - what sort of arc do you need to rotate the nut to get the belt tension released ?

Thanks for your help.

Best regards

Pete

[first-things-first]

Hi Pete

1. Not sure myself. I think when rotating the tensioner it looks as if the nut is moving. The thread is a special anti clockwise one so you are not undoing it by applying force to the tensioner.

2. To undo you should not need huge movement. Would say an arc of about 50 degrees. The spring tension is quite a lot and should feel like you are holding quite a bit of tension. When released (I came in from the top to get belt off) my spanner finally released tension at slam panel. The tension to get belt off meant spanner was moved to air con pipes by suspension turret, so the arc was from there to slam panel.

Haynes book of "just do this" eh. :}

All the best

Andrew

[EastPete]

Well, many thanks to Andrew (first-things-irst - nice to speak to you on the phone earlier, Andrew)

I took his advice and placed a jack under the engine, and then removed the upper engine mount, including the bracket over the hydramount and the bracket behind the hydramount that bolts to the inner wing. This then gives plenty of room for the long 24mm spanner to swing back through a good arc when placed on the tensioner - see photos below for the 'starting' position for the removal of the main auxillary belt. With the spanner initially resting against the slam panel, I pushed it back until it was just past the vertical position, and the tensioner released, and it was easy to reach underneath and slip the belt off the crank pulley whilst holding the spanner up above. A couple of 10mm bolts to release and the air con belt was off in no time.

Only two and a half hours on the job so far, and I have not even tackled the crank pulley bolt yet !

I have bolted the engine mount sback in place, because I think I will need all the help I can get when it comes to shifting the pulley bolt - it seems sensible to have the engine well strapped down for that !

I really do not think I could have got the belts off using the accepted method of attacking the tensioner from underneath the wheel arch - Andrew had to get his done from the top as well on his 2005 car. Perhaps there is something about the very late cars (2005) that have a different tensioner or less clearance that makes the job almost impossible using the usual method in the manuals.

Anyway, updates will follow - next job is to get the starter motor off ready for attacking the pulley bolt - might be tomorrow or day after.

Pete

[michael peters]

Well, many thanks to Andrew (first-things-irst - nice to speak to you on the phone earlier, Andrew)

I took his advice and placed a jack under the engine, and then removed the upper engine mount, including the bracket over the hydramount and the bracket behind the hydramount that bolts to the inner wing. This then gives plenty of room for the long 24mm spanner to swing back through a good arc when placed on the tensioner - see photos below for the 'starting' position for the removal of the main auxillary belt. With the spanner initially resting against the slam panel, I pushed it back until it was just past the vertical position, and the tensioner released, and it was easy to reach underneath and slip the belt off the crank pulley whilst holding the spanner up above. A couple of 10mm bolts to release and the air con belt was off in no time.

Only two and a half hours on the job so far, and I have not even tackled the crank pulley bolt yet !

I have bolted the engine mount sback in place, because I think I will need all the help I can get when it comes to shifting the pulley bolt - it seems sensible to have the engine well strapped down for that !

I really do not think I could have got the belts off using the accepted method of attacking the tensioner from underneath the wheel arch - Andrew had to get his done from the top as well on his 2005 car. Perhaps there is something about the very late cars (2005) that have a different tensioner or less clearance that makes the job almost impossible using the usual method in the manuals.

Anyway, updates will follow - next job is to get the starter motor off ready for attacking the pulley bolt - might be tomorrow or day after.

Pete
Nice looking engine bay, me envious, mine came from a muddy country area so is nowhere near as clean.

[first-things-first]

Excellent news. Glad I could help.

[calibrax]

Just remember that the pulley bolt is a reverse thread, i.e. anticlockwise to tighten, clockwise to loosen... something all too easily forgotten leading to much effort for no reason!

Please ignore this...!

[Mike Noc]

Steve to save someone suffering a hernia, you are talking about the tensioner bearing being left handed and not the crank pulley bolt. :eek:

[calibrax]

Steve to save someone suffering a hernia, you are talking about the tensioner bearing being left handed and not the crank pulley bolt. :eek:

whoops! :duh:

Ignore me, I'm having a bad day...

[Mike Noc]

Delete it it if you want mate and I'll delete both of mine. No one will be any the wiser. :D

[EastPete]

I had a hernia repair operation 3 months ago, so I definitely want to undo the pulley bolt in the right direction !! - I may use an air impact wrench anyway, if I can't shift it myself, and to avoid too much strain.

Thanks

Pete

[EastPete]

Well - progress today - went out to the garage fairly late due to a busy work day. Disconnected the battery and removed the starter motor (top bolt a bit difficult to get at, but not too bad).

I could not see any evidence of the 15mm bolts on the flywheel that could be used to lock it, according to another 'how to' thread on this forum. So I jammed a tyre lever into the starter motor 'hole' to lock the flywheel starter ring teeth - seemed to work OK. Now the fun part - I started with just a 3/4 inch 22mm socket on a short extension bar on the pulley bolt and a 2 foot breaker bar - nothing. Went to a three foot breaker bar - still nothing and the bar was bending that much I feared it might snap. Fearing for my recent hernia repair, I fired up the compressor and put the air impact wrench on the bolt- still nothing, even at full power setting. I was about to give up for today, thinking I would need to go out and buy a more powerful impact wrench (like the Clarke 1000 electric impact wrench, twice as powerful as my cheap air one) when I thought I would just try making a long extension bar out of various 3/4 inch extension bars, so that it would clear the wheel arch to get more leverage. I really did not think this would work, as there were too many joins, so I thought it would flex too much. Anyway, I cobbled it together, put a two foot breaker bar on the end, then slipped a 5 foot scaffold pole over that. Started to pull up on it, and lo and behold, I felt movement, and the bolt had freed, much to my amazement ! I am still in shock !

Going for lie down now ! - I will start putting it back together over the weekend. I assume there is no key or locating pin to go in the cut outs on the back of the pulley and end of the crankshaft - nothing fell out when I took the pulley off, so I assume I put it back on with just the bolt and washer (I have new ones from Rimmers).

Pete

[Mike Noc]

Good work Pete. Yes there is no key for the pulley - the diesels aren't timed from the pulley so no need for one.

Probably why the bolt is so tight.

[FrenchMike]

Looks easy with the right tool ....

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e46/320d_m47_tour/2_repair_instructions/11__engine_(m47)/23__vibration_damper/1_ra__removing_and_installing_or_replacing_vibrati on_damper_(m47)/

I think the trick is to limit flexions ..

[EastPete]

Thanks Mike

Interesting that the BMW manual tells you to align the cut outs between the pulley and the crankshaft flange, and mentions a key. This seems contrary to what MikeNoc was saying above - do you have to align the cut outs ?? Is there a key ? All comments on these points will be most welcome.

Pete

[T16]

Should have just bought the tensioner and crank pulley tool.

There is no woodruff key, its for the timing chain sprocket.

[FrenchMike]

Thanks Mike

Interesting that the BMW manual tells you to align the cut outs between the pulley and the crankshaft flange, and mentions a key. This seems contrary to what MikeNoc was saying above - do you have to align the cut outs ?? Is there a key ? All comments on these points will be most welcome.

Pete

Rimmers mentions a key:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001733

[oldcarguy]

Rimmers mentions a key:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001733

The key is for the timing chain pully, the main pulley is just held by a very long and very tight bolt.

[EastPete]

Thanks Rod - that is reassuring, as I have just bolted the pulley on this morning using just the bolt and washer- I did try to align the cut outs, but I do not really see what this achieves. I still have to torque it up by 60/60/30 degrees as in the manual - a nice job for this afternoon !

Cheers

Pete

[FrenchMike]

The key is for the timing chain pully, the main pulley is just held by a very long and very tight bolt.

So ,different from the BMW 320 ?

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e46/320d_m47_tour/2_repair_instructions/11__engine_(m47)/23__vibration_damper/1_ra__removing_and_installing_or_replacing_vibrati on_damper_(m47)/

[T16]

Yes.

There is no parallel key on the Rovers.

No idea why they are different. I dont even know if there is a cut out for a parallel key on the Rover Crank. Of course there is on the pulley as its a BMW part.

But no parallel key for rover/MG.

[T16]

Thanks Rod - that is reassuring, as I have just bolted the pulley on this morning using just the bolt and washer- I did try to align the cut outs, but I do not really see what this achieves. I still have to torque it up by 60/60/30 degrees as in the manual - a nice job for this afternoon !

Cheers

Pete

Be careful, do this step properly! I had a 6ft scaffold pole, and a monster angular torque gauge. Was a little heart stopping with the amount of force I had to put through it to torque it up correctly.

An M18 stretch bolt!! Quite something. Utter monster for a car, but I guess nothing compared to what the oil and gas guys deal with.

[EastPete]

Be careful, do this step properly! I had a 6ft scaffold pole, and a monster angular torque gauge. Was a little heart stopping with the amount of force I had to put through it to torque it up correctly.

An M18 stretch bolt!! Quite something. Utter monster for a car, but I guess nothing compared to what the oil and gas guys deal with.

OK - mixed fortunes today. I put on the new crank pulley, tightened the new bolt to 100 Nm as per manual. I then marked with a paint blob the middle of one of the bolt head flats, then placed another blob on the pulley two and a half flats clockwise from the blob on the bolt, to give me the target for tightening after the 60 + 60 + 30 angle torqueing procedure (i.e. 150 degrees in total, one flat being 60 degrees). I do not have an angle torque gauge. Anyway, started to tighten it up - first with long breaker bars, then with the 5 foot scaffold pole. I got quite scared at the forces involved, and the amount everything was bending - I felt something was about to break. I had only added about 60 degrees of tightening at this stage. I put the impact wrench on see if it would tighten further - it gave me a few more degrees, but I ended up about 80 degrees short I reckon, looking at the paint marks (picture below). At this stage,I really did not want to try any more force, and I was fearing reversal of my recent hernia repair as well !

I went up the road for a chat with the very helpful mechanic at our local garage, suggesting he could do the final tightening for me. He suggested leaving everything as it was - if I had torqued it to 100 Nm and then gone another 60-70 degrees, including using an impact gun that was supposed to give 240 lb/ft on max power, so the bolt is going to be pretty tight. He would not try to tighten it further - he has seen a couple of instances where people have gone to heroic lengths with long scaffold poles etc, and ending up breaking off the head of the stretch bolt- a major problem, since it is them almost impossible to get the bolt threaded section out of the crankshaft. So, he said, put it all back together -run it for a week and check the paint marks to see that nothing has moved. He did not advise using the impact gun any further on a stretch bolt - not ideal in his eyes.

So, I refitted the starter motor, then moved to fit the air con belt - Problem: the belt supplied to me is twice the length of the old belt, so play was suspended for the day ! I may try to source the correct belt tomorrow or Monday, but that is it for the moment - off to the pictures tonight.

Cheers

Pete

[bl52krz]

I am beginning to regret starting this job - not enjoying it at all !

I have just spent another hour out the garage. Tweaking the engine mounts did not provide any more room for the 24mm spanner, so I got out the angle grinder and took a couple of millimetres off the ring spanner. Good news: it now fitted (just) onto the tensioner nut. Bad news - when it turned, even after several anti-clockwise turns, nothing appeared to happen to the belt tension. Looking closely, the nut at the back of the tensioner seems to be turning when the 24mm nut on the outside is turned - is this meant to happen, or do I need to get a spanner onto the smaller nut at the back ? (looks well nigh impossible to get anything in there !)

All suggestions gratefully received.

Off to lunch now !

Thanks

Pete
When my friend and I did the job on both our cars (taking tension off belt) to replace auxiliary and con belt, we also had to grind some metal off the spanner. Seems a rather stupidly close tolerance.

[T16]

Hence why the tensioner tool is so helpful.

Its nearly 3 feet long, and slips in the gap perfectly.

Expensive, but saves a lot of swearing!

[EastPete]

Well folks, got the right air con belt this morning from Millfield Auto Factors in Peterborough. Just been out to fit it - following Haynes procedure and applying 47Nm to the 22mm tensioner nut, the adjuster turned all the way to the end of the travel of the 'groove' for the locking nut without the torque wrench clicking (tried this with two different wrenches to make sure - I made sure I had the wrench set in anti-clockwise mode as well). I have clamped it up at the end of the adjuster travel, and the belt seems pretty tight (too tight ??). I had marked where the adjuster nut was in the slot before taking off the old belt, and this is some way up from the end of the slot - see photo. What should I do ?? Leave it as is or adjust back to the previous position, as suggested in one 'how to' on this forum.

All responses will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Pete

[first-things-first]

Have you used these torque wrenches to torque up anti-clockwise before (do you know it works)? I suppose the test would be to set it to a low/lowest setting and see if it clicks then?

I used my first torque wrench and this did not work anti-clockwise. Tried another we luckily have (Halfords jobbie) and this worked. Held it there and then using a socket tightened the adjuster as much as I could using the socket wrench. Mine is nearly at the end of the groove as per your photo.

[Mike Noc]

Well folks, got the right air con belt this morning from Millfield Auto Factors in Peterborough. Just been out to fit it - following Haynes procedure and applying 47Nm to the 22mm tensioner nut, the adjuster turned all the way to the end of the travel of the 'groove' for the locking nut without the torque wrench clicking (tried this with two different wrenches to make sure - I made sure I had the wrench set in anti-clockwise mode as well). I have clamped it up at the end of the adjuster travel, and the belt seems pretty tight (too tight ??). I had marked where the adjuster nut was in the slot before taking off the old belt, and this is some way up from the end of the slot - see photo. What should I do ?? Leave it as is or adjust back to the previous position, as suggested in one 'how to' on this forum.

All responses will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Pete

Pete if that is the right belt then it is over-tensioned. Try running with it set to the original marks.

As long as it doesn't slip or squeal when the aircon is running you should be fine. If it doesn't, double check that you have been supplied with the correct belt.

[EastPete]

Thanks Andrew and Mike

Andrew was right - testing my torque wrenches, although I thought they should work anti-clockwise, they in fact don't 'click' when used in this way - a bit irritating. I took the tensioner bracket back to the previous position, but the belt seemed rather slack in this position, so I have clamped it in place about half way between the original position and the end of the slot - the tension feels about right, and there is no slipping evident on start up.

The main belt went on without too much trouble, much to my surprise. I took the top engine mount off, including the tie bracket to the inner wing. Threaded the new belt around the power steering pulley, idler and alternator pulleys , then back over the water pump and tensioner pulley, leaving the crank pulley till last. Placed the spanner on the tensioner with it as far forward as possible (near the slam panel), then took it all the way back as far as it would go - basically horizontal, with the end of the spanner up by the bulkhead - I got my better half to hold it down there whilst I slipped the belt round the crank pulley - it went on without much of a struggle, released the tension and everything seemed to be in the right place. The key really is to try to rotate the spanner through as large an arc as possible to release the tensioner as far as possible- I probably moved it through about 135 degrees or more to get the tensioner loose enough to slip the belt on the crank pulley. I am pretty sure I could not have done this accessing the tensioner from underneath.

Anyway, the engine mounts are back on, and I have started the engine - everything seems OK - belts are running smoothly, no funny noises or vibrations from the crank pulley area. I need to finish off refitting the wheel arch liner/mudflap and undertray, then I will get the car out for a run.

Thanks for all the help from forum members, during this 'saga', particularly Andrew (first-things-first) and Mike.

Cheers

Pete

[EastPete]

Work was busy the last couple of days so I have only just got out to the garage to finish off putting it all back together. I have just done a 20 mile test run - all seems quiet from the pulley/belt area, and the ticking/ slapping noise at tickover/lower revs has gone. The rubber on the old pulley had gone hard and started to 'bubble' in an arc around one side, so was starting to deteriorate. Even though this is a low mileage car (36K), I am finding that the rubber components are showing their 10 years age - I have now changed all the engine mounts and the belts/crank pulley, with a noticeable improvement in refinement. There is still a little vibration getting into the cabin at around 1500 rpm (a common issue- I had it on my last 75CDT), but replacing the belts/pulley seems to be reduced it further. The 'zizzing' in the drivers door around the locking button has almost gone. I still get a bit of harshness coming up through the suspension I think - it might benefit from new wishbone and anti-roll bar bushes and drop links, but that can wait for another day.

My conclusions from this 'saga':

- The CDT belt change is quite doable as a DIY job without special tools. You need a long slim 24mm spanner ('aviation' spanner is ideal, about 15 inches long), and you may need to grind a bit off to get it to slip in the gap and over the tensioner nut. Based on my experience, doing this from underneath was well nigh impossible. By going in from the top, after removing all the right hand upper engine mounts (including the tie bar to the inner wing), it was relatively easy to get enough tension taken off the belt to remove the old belt and get the new one on , but you may need to swing the spanner through as large an arc as possible to get the belt on/off easily. The air con belt is easy to change, but you really need a torque wrench that works properly in the anti-clockwise direction to tension it according to the manual.

- The crank pulley swap is a more challenging DIY job. The Rover locking tool would be a great help, but you can do without by removing the starter motor and locking the flywheel (I used a tyre lever for this) .The hardest part is undoing and retightening the pulley bolt. You either need a heavy duty professional quality compressor/impact wrench (my 30 pound DIY Clarke air impact wrench was not up to the task) or some sort of home made 'scaffold pole' based tool to get the bolt on and off. Some of these have been described previously on this forum. If I was doing the job again, I think I would get an 'L-shaped' scaffold pole made up - about 18 inches on the short side and 5-6 foot on the long side, with a good quality 22mm socket welded into the end of the short 'leg' to go on the pulley bolt. I would probably have to ask a local engineering shop to make this up - in my area this should be quite easy, as there as several agricultural engineers in the Fens that will knock up things like this very quickly/cheaply.

Anyway, I hope this thread has been of interest or help to forum members thinking of tackling these jobs in the future - all comments are welcome.

Cheers

Pete

[T16]

Crank pulley can only really be done propery with 3/4" sockets and extension bars, and a 5/6 foot scaffold pole!

Mine was so tight, a 750Nm impact driver @ Iveco didnt touch it.

I covered the scaffold pole in towels just in case of any accidents, and also covered the bar joint with towels in case it shattered/snapped.

It was NOT a job I want to do again!

Of course probably it would come out easier next time, but for the love of God, just buy the Corteco original so at least you have peace of mind that you have the best quality part!

The crank tool is a must for me, saved so much hassle, and its so beefy that it works like a charm with no "risk" of anything getting mangled.

After Rover changed the damn bolt and washer (no clue why) my tool needed a little modification to it, but its all good now.

As for the tensioner, sure you can get away with "normal" tools, but the purpose made tool with the kink in it is so damn useful, it enabled me to have hands free while I chocked it in place, meaning I needed no extra help.

Anyone doing the crank pulley, we all feel your pain, and we extend our deepest sympathy to you!! Its so unpleasant.

[EastPete]

Thanks for your comments Ross

I have put a Corteco pulley on the car, so should be good for another 10 years I hope !

I did shift the pulley bolt with a 3/4 inch socket and extension bars and a 5 foot scaffold pole, but I was quite scared of something snapping at one of the joints - I made sure I wore thick gloves and eye protection . I wonder how garages or Rover dealers approach this job !

Regarding the Rover special tools, how do ordinary mortals such as me get hold of them ?? I did see the crank tool on e-bay, but at 80 pounds. Does the club have a tool hire section or members who loan them out ?. I know there is one member on here that offers loan of a belt tensioner tool, but I also heard from one member that even this was not suitable for his car - like mine there was virtually no room between the tensioner bolt and the inner wing to get the tool or spanner on. With the top engine mount off, you can actually lever the engine sideways a few millimetres to give you a bit more room to get the spanner in there.

Pete

[T16]

LRT-12-163

On this page...

http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Engine_Tools2-p3.html

Mine was £60Inc Vat a long time ago, things have gone up!

However, Im sure someone can find it cheaper somewhere.

Flaming godsend that tool! Makes it so easy, no worrying about things slipping off, hurt fingers/knuckles etc.

Very long so massive leverage.

My Crank pulley tool, same as Rover one, but from BMW, £65.

Part number and pics are all on this forums if people search or someone makes it a sticky thread.

[DMGRS]

Hello Pete, glad to see you've got somewhere with the job - happy days. :)

[Fishytroll66]

All it seems you can do is remove the tensioner arm and pulley in 1 piece, there is a nut on the actual tensioner (hidden behind the alternator), the arm will come out - what you do about the tension itself I haven't worked out yet..

[Bruno]

Used a mobile mechanic to put on new auxiliary belts after exist of 120K mls snaped etc. Seemingly you need 3 arms and all built like a blacksmiths which I am not. Mechanic turned crank backwards to unwind belt which seemingly put timing out. Whilst drivable before now wont start and my local garage says a write off on account of cost. I blame my self as I stood watching him but any ideas how to reset all with out removing the engine. Thanks Bruno.

[tonytolle]

Used a mobile mechanic to put on new auxiliary belts after exist of 120K mls snaped etc. Seemingly you need 3 arms and all built like a blacksmiths which I am not. Mechanic turned crank backwards to unwind belt which seemingly put timing out. Whilst drivable before now wont start and my local garage says a write off on account of cost. I blame my self as I stood watching him but any ideas how to reset all with out removing the engine. Thanks Bruno.
The timing won't have been disturbed by what you have done ,the problem is elsewhere,you have tacked this onto a very old post ,it will only be seen by very bored people like me I suggest you start a new thread. help will then be forthcoming.

[ceedy]

A Duplicate of a Statement/question in Dec 2018 ?


did it ever get resolved ?



https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=2695148#post2695148


:shrug:





Used a mobile mechanic to put on new auxiliary belts after exist of 120K mls snaped etc. Seemingly you need 3 arms and all built like a blacksmiths which I am not. Mechanic turned crank backwards to unwind belt which seemingly put timing out. Whilst drivable before now wont start and my local garage says a write off on account of cost. I blame my self as I stood watching him but any ideas how to reset all with out removing the engine. Thanks Bruno.