Headlights flashing when I try to start it :-(

[hogweed]

This morning, when I turned the key, the headlights flashed several times and I could hear a relay clicking somewhere behind the dash. I turned the ignition off again, prayed a bit, and tried again – this time it started – just.

Does this mean the battery/alternator are knackered? Again? This happened 2 or 3 years ago, and I had them both replaced at considerable expense.

Why do the headlights flash – is it supposed to be telling me something?

I remove the radio when I get out of the car – can't think of anything else which would cause a leak or whatever. I do the same 14 mile round trip every day, have done for years. Headlights on some of the time, but again, have done that for years without problems.

The only thing I’ve done different in the last couple of days was turn the aircon off, as I've realised I have the faulty fan resistor problem – can’t see any way that would cause the problem.

All dashboard lights normal.

So I guess what I’m asking is:

1. Do the flashing lights actually tell me something?
2. Any way of knowing if the battery’s failed, or if it’s the alternator (last time it went loopy and boiled the battery)?
3. Is it reasonable to expect a battery to fail in 2-3 years?
4. Anything I haven’t thought of?

Thanks…

[Heddy]

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=936980&postcount=1

[SD1too]

Roger,

Your battery is flat. Borrow or buy a mains powered charger and leave it connected for at least 24 hours irrespective of any "battery ready" lights illuminating. You will then be ready to go again. Precautions you can take to minimise a recurrence include turning off high current consumers such as the HRW, heated seats and air conditioning compressor when they're not needed.

The most common reason for flat batteries in the winter is insufficient use of the car. Are you making very short journeys with a lot of use of the starter motor? This takes an enormous current from the battery, especially with a diesel engine, and the car must then be driven for sufficient time to allow the alternator to recharge it.

To answer your questions:
Do the flashing lights actually tell me something?
That your battery needs recharging. It's not a deliberate design, more a phenonemon of the ECU design.
Any way of knowing if the battery’s failed, or if it’s the alternator
Your battery is discharged. To check the alternator's charging voltage, raise the engine speed above idle and use the IPK diagnostics or a voltmeter across the battery terminals. You're looking for a minimum of 13.8 volts, but ideally more like 14.5, but no higher than that.
Is it reasonable to expect a battery to fail in 2-3 years?
That depends upon how it's been treated. Many short journeys, electrical accessories turned on; yes, it could become discharged at any time! But it hasn't failed irrevocably. It just needs charging!

Simon

[hogweed]

Thanks as always for your detailed and helpful reply. The garage who does my servicing etc is fortuitously right opposite where I work, so I decided I couldn’t take a chance, and have left it with them to look at. Trouble is, living alone in the countryside, I’m completely **** without the car, even for a day – can’t get to work or anything. That’s why I decline to tackle many jobs on the car which I may be capable of doing.

At this time of year, I do drive to work (7 miles) and back with the headlights, HRW and (usually) aircon on (haven’t got heated seats) – but as I say, I've been doing exactly the same thing 5 days a week for 2-3 years since the alternator failed last time, and no problems, ever. It gets started at the beginning of the journey, driven 7 miles, then stopped – that’s it. And longer journeys at the weekend.

Anyway, as I say, I’m in the unfortunate position of not being able to take the risk of testing it myself etc – will post what the garage says :getmecoat:

[SD1too]

... I do drive to work (7 miles) and back with the headlights, HRW and (usually) aircon on – but as I say, I've been doing exactly the same thing 5 days a week for 2-3 years since the alternator failed last time, and no problems, ever.
This is the argument which many people use in their search to find something to blame. There are things which you need to take into consideration; firstly, during the 7 mile journey how much time do you spend with the engine idling in queues? In these circumstances the alternator's output will be insufficient to supply the current demands of headlights, HRW, air con. compressor, heater blower, etc. and so the battery will make up the difference from it's reserve. So not only is the battery not being charged during these periods, but its existing level of charge is being reduced. This situation can exist for a long time, with the battery slowly but surely heading towards failure, then one day it happens and everyone is shocked, they blame the battery, throw it away (even though it only needs charging), and buy a new one. They then assume that the battery was somehow defective or poor quality which I hope you can see is most likely not the case.

Anyway, as I say, I’m in the unfortunate position of not being able to take the risk of testing it myself ..
As I said Roger, you can check the alternator's output yourself using the instrument pack diagnostics. You can also charge the battery yourself overnight (which won't interfere with your journeys to work). You don't need a garage for either of those.

Simon

[Heddy]

Simon's comments are spot on. You could also check whether the battery you have is powerful enough for the job, look at specifications of the battery for your car, CCA for example (cold cranking amps) and fit a heavy duty battery if your existing one isn't up to the task.:}

[hogweed]

Thanks again. I have thought of some of the obvious things, but haven’t posted every detail here, in the interests to brevity. I live in the country, and drive from one small town to another, 7½ miles, and back every day. No traffic queues or anything like that – average speed probably about 40mph, up and down hills… so the battery simply becoming gradually discharged wouldn’t be my first thought.

You can check the alternator's output yourself using the instrument pack diagnostics.

Must have missed that bit… how do I it please?

[Dorset Bob]

It is option 9 here (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=479038)

:}

[hogweed]

It is option 9 here (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=479038)

:}

Thanks Bob, have printed that lot out now and will keep it in the car :bowdown:

[Mike Noc]

Thanks again. I have thought of some of the obvious things, but haven’t posted every detail here, in the interests to brevity. I live in the country, and drive from one small town to another, 7½ miles, and back every day. No traffic queues or anything like that – average speed probably about 40mph, up and down hills… so the battery simply becoming gradually discharged wouldn’t be my first thought.



Must have missed that bit… how do I it please?

From my experience that should be enough to keep the battery charged. I've got a Freelander TD4 that is only normally used for taking the dog out to the woods for a walk,(he can get as muddy as he likes) the odd dump run and a bit of other local stuff. Nothing over 6 miles and usually a lot less.

In this weather the FBH is on from the start, along with interior fan, seat heaters (cheek roasters in the Landy, not tepid as in the 75) and wipers and lights as required.

Not sure what the alternator output is on the Landy but I've never had any issues with the battery draining to date.

To be honest, after reading all the info on short journeys, I expected it to need a top up every now and again.

[SD1too]

... 7½ miles, and back every day. No traffic queues or anything like that … so the battery simply becoming gradually discharged wouldn’t be my first thought.
I agree, but it can and does happen, to you and to me. In November I did two consecutive 80 mile round trips on 'A' roads and motorway, very few traffic lights, a bit of queuing followed by six weeks of not using the 75. After that, the battery was so flat that the central locking wouldn't work. It's off-load voltage was 5.2 v! :eek:
... average speed probably about 40mph ...
You say "probably" so you're guessing!;) So do you complete the journey in 11 minutes, door to door then? `You've got a Connoisseur so, out of interest, zero the trip computer when you start and see what the actual average speed is. I bet you it's less than 40 mph. :}

Here's something else which most people overlook; those occasions when they start the car only to move it off their drive. Then there are the quick but short trips to the local shop when you run out of milk. Can you honestly say that you never do either of these? Both contribute to the battery's decline.

Anyway, whatever the reason, your battery has become discharged with your normal use so you're going to have to help it with an external charge or 100 mile high speed run now and again.

Simon

[DMGRS]

I'd say battery - if it was the alternator, you'd normally get the 'charge fault' light too.
I say normally as sometimes they do fail and for whichever reason the light / warning doesn't happen - but it's quite rare.

[hogweed]

Battery it was - completely knackered, at least one cell almost dead.

Sorted again - thanks as always for all the helpful advice :D

PS instrument display Option 9 shows a pretty steady 14.2

[hogweed]

...just checked back to my original post when my alternator failed and boiled my last battery (so when the one that's just come out was fitted)was in November 2011, so it lasted a little over 3 years. Maybe that's what one should expect from a tractor...