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jag75es
17th January 2015, 11:33
Hi, first post, I have a 2004 Rover 75 1.8 Connoisseur SE estate with 85000 miles on the clock. Purchased six weeks ago, so still getting used to it, although bodywork and interior are good, my intention is to keep for long term restoration and improvement. The problem, on cold mornings the engine is very uneven on start up for a minute or so with a lot of white vapor from exhaust, once warm it is ok. I do have to top up the coolant to Max every other day by about 250ml, there does not appear to be oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil, but there is a few small blobs of "emulsion" on the oil filler cap. The engine oil is 10w40 semi synthetic to ACEA A3. Previous history sparse, but the timing belt was changed at 75,000 miles. The white exhaust does have an odd smell while it lasts. The engine pulls well at all times, no excessive pressure in the coolant system, and no apparent problems at all when weather is mild. Is this likely to be a head gasket problem or something else? Any help welcomed.

suzublu
17th January 2015, 11:56
Hi & welcome. The 1.8 has a well documented weakness in the inlet manifold, first port of call for any coolant loss. I would change that first, about a tenner, then keep an eye on levels. Rough starting is a common sign of this gasket leaking. Also, change your plug gaps to about .75mm;) The 1.8 engine is the best in the range, if looked after, but I am biased :D

rich17865
17th January 2015, 12:02
Sounds like mine was when I got it, I would start at the inlet manifold, but be prepared for the worst.

jag75es
17th January 2015, 12:11
Hi & welcome. The 1.8 has a well documented weakness in the inlet manifold, first port of call for any coolant loss. I would change that first, about a tenner, then keep an eye on levels. Rough starting is a common sign of this gasket leaking. Also, change your plug gaps to about .75mm;) The 1.8 engine is the best in the range, if looked after, but I am biased :D

Thank you, will replace that first, ment to mention, the coolant is blue/green should it not be red ?

suzublu
17th January 2015, 12:18
OEM was pink OAT coolant, (lot of anagrams):o but as long as you don't mix oat with blue, it shouldn't make any difference.:}

roverbarmy
17th January 2015, 12:19
Thank you, will replace that first, ment to mention, the coolant is blue/green should it not be red ?
OAT (red) is recommended but someone may have changed the coolant at some point.
Mike

jag75es
17th January 2015, 12:30
OAT (red) is recommended but someone may have changed the coolant at some point.
Mike

Thanks for assistance.

T-Cut
17th January 2015, 17:51
OAT (red) is recommended but someone may have changed the coolant at some point.


And did they flush the system first?

Red OAT mix shouldn't be added to another type, nor should another type be added to OAT. If there's any doubt, I'd flush thoroughly with tap water (hosepipe) and refill with your favoured antifreeze at 50% strength. Er, once you've fixed the leak.

TC

DMGRS
17th January 2015, 18:03
It's definitely worth changing the Inlet Manifold Gasket - it sounds like it could be your problem.
I have them for under £2 here: K Series Inlet Manifold Gasket (http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/all-k-series-engine-parts/products/k-series-oem-inlet-manifold-gasket-lkj101110)

They're FAI items, so should give good service. :)

jag75es
18th January 2015, 10:41
And did they flush the system first?

Red OAT mix shouldn't be added to another type, nor should another type be added to OAT. If there's any doubt, I'd flush thoroughly with tap water (hosepipe) and refill with your favoured antifreeze at 50% strength. Er, once you've fixed the leak.

TC

Yes, was worried about that, will flush system after fitting new gasket, thanks again.

jag75es
18th January 2015, 10:51
It's definitely worth changing the Inlet Manifold Gasket - it sounds like it could be your problem.
I have them for under £2 here: K Series Inlet Manifold Gasket (http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/all-k-series-engine-parts/products/k-series-oem-inlet-manifold-gasket-lkj101110)

They're FAI items, so should give good service. :)

Thank you, have just ordered.

marinabrian
18th January 2015, 11:01
Yes, was worried about that, will flush system after fitting new gasket, thanks again.

I wouldn't worry too much, all of my cars run blue antifreeze ;)

I would echo the sentiments of changing the inlet manifold gasket first, and take it from there.

I will point out though to the nay sayers in regards to OAT coolant, my 214 SEi which has the same inlet manifold gasket set up as the 75, has been leak free for the past ten years and 390,000 miles using blue antifreeze.

I'll let you draw you own anecdotal evidence from that ;)

Brian :D

badrover
18th January 2015, 11:14
Make sure you read up on the job before you do it. In my experience there's a few things on this job that are worth double checking and doing as per rover recommendation. Checking the brass jiggle pin, checking for plastic manifold cracks/warping, checking the brass locators and torquing up in sequence should guarantee that you are not doing the job again in a few weeks! Also, bleed it properly.

kaiser
18th January 2015, 12:14
Yes, was worried about that, will flush system after fitting new gasket, thanks again.

Don't worry, it is quite OK. I have used green antifreeze for years. On all my cars, including the modern 75s.
It has worked for about 70 years or so, why should it suddenly stop working because somebody in the OAT camp has got a smart marketing guru employed??:D

You'll be fine, maybe even better!, with the old fashioned stuff.

SD1too
18th January 2015, 13:15
Nobody is claiming that standard ethylene glycol ('blue' or 'green') antifreeze doesn't work. T-Cut's post warned against mixing 'blue' and OAT:
And did they flush the system first?
Red OAT mix shouldn't be added to another type, nor should another type be added to OAT.

Simon

jag75es
18th January 2015, 21:02
Make sure you read up on the job before you do it. In my experience there's a few things on this job that are worth double checking and doing as per rover recommendation. Checking the brass jiggle pin, checking for plastic manifold cracks/warping, checking the brass locators and torquing up in sequence should guarantee that you are not doing the job again in a few weeks! Also, bleed it properly.

Thanks, have been reading up on Haynes manual.