Heater problem R75 Connie Tourer 2001 plate

[Clive pugh]

Hi,
Have just acquired this great Estate after my R45 broke a cam belt at speed last week heading to Newmarket! The estimated repair cost resulted in scrap page and this acquisition.

At the moment everything seems ok and I am still finding my way round the vehicle. Mot until Nov 15 advisors include slight corrosion to near and of side brake pipes, front steering rack gaiter deteriorated, near side front wheel bearing on limit.

Immediate problem concerns heating, and I suspect an open thermostat, at idle I get heat, although not roasting, but running on motorway mainly cold, maybe a little lukewarm air. The temp gauge at idle is lucky to hit the 7 o'clock positon; when cruising sits stubbornly at 6 o'clock.

Second problem not critical concerns bonnet and tailgate warning lights which remain illuminated even though both are firmly shut! Any ideas on correction would be great!

Finally would just like to say I've had a look around some of the forums and can't believe the wealth of info and obvious enthusiasm that exists here.
For info the car has done 137,000 miles, everything including under the bonnet seems to be squeaky clean, strange having a car with no CD player! Unless there is one hiding somewhere in the boot! The ID no is SARRJZTHC2D218862
Nice to meet you all on here

Clive

[klarzy]

as a starter try spinning the thumbwheel that sits horizontally in the middle of the dash, all the way to the left, this will close of the cool ram air from outside and give you just what goes past the heater....

The AUTO function also puts most of the heat to the bottom of the car so use the position button (sitting person) to direct it to your face and see if that is better....

as for the stat and cooler air in the cabin... do you have a blocked matrix or an air lock??

[Greeners]

Welcome along......another local owner :D

Yes your thermostat is kaput....some members fit an in line one, but I would recommend changing the original.

Warning lights are normally damp i the bonnet switch, but this weather plays havoc with the door warning lights

[Greeners]

CD changer should be in the glovebox if fitted

[Clive pugh]

Wow, quick replies! When heating comes through it does so both sides, top and bottom so I don't think the matrix is blocked...not sure about airlock, haven't had car long enough to check but will try and have closer look this weekend.

Haven't even looked in glove box yet! Where abouts are the bonnet and tailgate sensors?

Nice to know there are local owners!

I get around the whole of the South East so March is also local for me!!

Cheers Clive

[Greeners]

Diesels never get particularly hot on a good day, so combined with the current air temperature and a sticking stat, your heater will never get toastie.

The micro switches for the dash warning lights are part of the door latches, a squirt of wd40 might help but it'll certainly go when the weather warms up.

[DMGRS]

There's a 'quick fix' for the thermostat issue - you can fit an inline thermostat in the top radiator hose. I have a useful kit for the job here:
75/ZT CDTi Thermostat Kit - Inline (http://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/thermostats-and-waterpumps/products/rover-75-mg-zt-cdti-inline-thermostat-89-degrees)

Less than £10, and job done - toasty heaters and better MPG. :)

[Clive pugh]

Just thought I'd let you know found CD player in glove box!!! And have ordered thermostat kit��. Thinking of getting digimaf from tuning diesels... The one I had for the Rover 45 can be modified for the 75 and boosts the bhp and improves the mpg ... Has anyone else used one.. Haven't done the diagnostics yet but the mpg is currently showing anything between 38 and 49 mpg....not sure how much reliance should be put on this...

[Greeners]

There's loads on tunning boxes, you will find that a 160 remap is a good improvement and makes the 75 the car mgr should have made it

[Clive pugh]

Hi,
Well now have had chance to have a look under the bonnet! As car hadn't been used for a couple of days I checked the coolant level...both max and min marks visible, and, having read through numerous posts on here, this could well be critical to the issue of no heat; so made up some 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water and the beast swallowed about a litre all told with me squeezing water pipes and a satisfying bubbling coming from the overflow!!
I have received the in line thermostat and was going to venture further to see if I've got a steel band or clip, but I thought I would roadrun it and use the diagnostics to check water temp.
On start up there was a fair amount of gurgling going on behind the dash, so I was pleased I left the cap off!! Water level still good after few minutes so switched off, did cap off and started again.
Start temp was 24 which gradually rose to about 35 idling on the drive, on driving this rose to about 45 and by the time I hit the A1 at 70 for run to Stevenage and back, the temp. Had settled at a steady 50-52.
Occasional drops to 48 and at no time higher than 55 until the hill up to home where 57 was reached!
There seemed to be a little more heat available but it was still Luke warm even at HI
I'll check water level in morning again.
This temp obviously not high enough so looks like I will need to fit new stat!
Many thanks for help so far

Clive

[SD1too]

Clive,

Once you've fitted a new thermostat, here's (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1558211&postcount=12) how to bleed your cooling system and get rid of all that air. :}

Simon

[Mike Noc]

A common leak point for the diesels is the OEM thermostat housing seal, so worth bleeding the cooling system and finding the source of the leak, assuming you have one, before fitting an inline 'stat.

[Clive pugh]

Hi,
Didn't get a chance to check water level this am as late for meeting in Cambridge, but did monitor temp with diag. Once again temp stabilised at 50-53, in traffic it actually hit 66 at one point....quite a bit of heat and temp gauge managed to reach about 8.00! Will check fluid level in morning. Did look for any signs of leaks but couldn't spot any. Thanks Simon and Mike Noc. Will have another look in morning......Haines manual arrived today!! Had dipped headlight fail tonight on nearside...so need to change that prompt!
Not sure how you thank folk on this forum but thanks to all
Clive

[Clive pugh]

Yesterday I had the lads at my garage install the inline thermostat. They opted to remove the injector cover,(I think) by undoing about twelve bolts and slo detaching it from a unit at the right hand side of engine, ( sorry don't know what it was but someone on here will!) this gave total access to the top hose to cut off the band.....just as well because there was an obvious water leak from the hose fitting to the cylinder block, which they cleaned up and resealed . The thermostat fitted perfectly and all was reinstalled.
Result ...immediately noticeable, from start up with temp showing about 15 in less than three minutes temp was climbing past 50, up to 87 and then oscillated down to 77 and back again! Temp gauge dead on 9 o'clock and toasty heat coming into car!!
Slight issue in that air on passenger side is not as warm as that on drivers side.
Have driven heat requirement down to cold and back again several times but no change so not sure what's going on there!

According to car mpg has gone up from 37.3 to 40.3 but unsure how reliable those figs are. Personally I thought it should be higher as my trips involve longish distance/dual carriageway etc.

For some reason the cd unit is now saying there are no discs in unit when there are and it was working!! Answers on a postcard please!

Big thank you to all concerned

Clive

[klarzy]

Yesterday I had the lads at my garage install the inline thermostat. They opted to remove the injector cover,(I think) by undoing about twelve bolts and slo detaching it from a unit at the right hand side of engine, ( sorry don't know what it was but someone on here will!) this gave total access to the top hose to cut off the band.....just as well because there was an obvious water leak from the hose fitting to the cylinder block, which they cleaned up and resealed . The thermostat fitted perfectly and all was reinstalled.
Result ...immediately noticeable, from start up with temp showing about 15 in less than three minutes temp was climbing past 50, up to 87 and then oscillated down to 77 and back again! Temp gauge dead on 9 o'clock and toasty heat coming into car!!
Slight issue in that air on passenger side is not as warm as that on drivers side.
Have driven heat requirement down to cold and back again several times but no change so not sure what's going on there!

According to car mpg has gone up from 37.3 to 40.3 but unsure how reliable those figs are. Personally I thought it should be higher as my trips involve longish distance/dual carriageway etc.

For some reason the cd unit is now saying there are no discs in unit when there are and it was working!! Answers on a postcard please!

Big thank you to all concerned

Clive

passenger side could be a flap motor, have you done the AC check?

[Clive pugh]

AC check? I don't believe so...can you enlighten me please thanks

[klarzy]

AC check? I don't believe so...can you enlighten me please thanks

there is a button combination (something like off and the seated driver) when you switch on, that put it into a check scan which tests all the parts of the system and gives a readout code..

do a search on the forum and you will find it...

[Ken Lion]

Here's one (started by you Peter!) :

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=1813529

[Mike Noc]

If that checks out, then you will need to clean out the heater matrix, as it is likely partially blocked at the passenger end.

[SD1too]

Slight issue in that air on passenger side is not as warm as that on drivers side.
Clive,

Before you look at the heater matrix, ask your garage if they followed the MGR cooling system refilling and bleeding procedure here (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1558211&postcount=12) (there's a good chance they didn't). Trapped air in the cooling system is worth ruling out first.
A problem with the air blend flaps is unlikely.

For some reason the cd unit is now saying there are no discs in unit when there are and it was working!! Answers on a postcard please!
The disc loading mechanism needs lubrication. The unit detects the presence of a disc by loading and reading it. If, for any reason, the disc does not fully engage in the drive, the unit displays 'no disc' when there is one. It's a nuisance and mine does it too. :o

Simon

[Clive pugh]

Thanks for that, will carry out the AC check today if I get chance.

Ref. the refill...the system was not drained and I'm guessing if the cylinder core drain plug was removed, it would need to have been?.

The bleed screw in the hose that runs in front of the battery was removed and engine run with expansion tank full to neck until coolant started to come through bleed screw.

Did not need further topping up and levels fine next morning at cold.

I don't appear to have a fuel burning heater but there are two hoses that lie just above the one with the bleed screw that appear open ended and not doing anything!

Where abouts on the engine is the core drain plug? And does the system self bleed over time?
What do you use to lubricate the cd changer and exactly what gets lubricated? Do you have to remove the unit?
Thanks for your help
Clive

[SD1too]

The bleed screw in the hose that runs in front of the battery was removed and engine run ... until coolant started to come through bleed screw.
Clive,

If you read the MG Rover procedure carefully you will see that what you have described is incorrect. The engine should not be run with the bleed screw removed. If you're still having problems then you will need to remove the air by following the instructions exactly.

Where abouts on the engine is the core drain plug? And does the system self bleed over time?
On the diesel Haynes says it's just above the turbo-to-exhaust downpipe flange. Some people believe that cooling systems "self bleed" but if that were the case, why provide a bleed screw? :shrug: Also, several club members have found that following the MGR bleeding procedure cures their problems whilst waiting for it to "self bleed" hasn't.
What do you use to lubricate the cd changer and exactly what gets lubricated? Do you have to remove the unit?

Some bedtime reading for you:
CD player seized - result (http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=84383)

Simon

[Clive pugh]

Thanks Simon, will get the lads at garage to do it by manual next week and thanks for the bed time reading!!��
Perhaps if I post some pics of these odd pipes you may be able to shed some light on them!

Many thanks for such a quick response

Clive

[SD1too]

Perhaps if I post some pics of these odd pipes you may be able to shed some light on them!
Yes, please show us the pictures. I will leave the diesel owners to advise you on that though, as they will have a much better idea than the driver of a KV6! ;)

Simon

[alanjay]

CD player problem, one possibility, cold car once started warms glove box quite quickly, this can create condensation on discs making it impossible for laser to track.

Had same problem on my car, solved it by not closing the sliding cover across cartridge, no more condensation and so far, trouble free CD player.

[Grumpy1]

Can I put in my twopennyworth about the advisory for 'slightly corroded brake pipes'? I had this advisory a couple of years ago but did nothing about it. :duh: At the next MOT, one of the pipes burst whilst being tested and the test was abandoned. Now if that pipe had burst at speed on the motorway, or anywhere else for that matter..........:eek: Get them replaced pronto!

Chad.

[Mike Noc]

Bleeding the diesel cooling system is usually pretty straightforward.

If it is airlocking then check the expansion tank is clear where the small hose enters just under the cap - it is a small diameter hole and can block up.

If the only problem you have is the passenger side being cooler than the driver's though, then likely the heater matrix is partially blocked.

[Clive pugh]

Here are some photos of an odd pipe that sits behind the pipe with the bleed screw in it. When you look down end there is something stuffed down it! There is also a thinner,braided pipe withe a Philips screw screwed into it!
Does anyone see the fuel heater in the pic, if so I cant find the control for it!!

http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q710/clivegpugh/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsj4vh175d.jpg (http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/clivegpugh/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsj4vh175d.jpg.html)

http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q710/clivegpugh/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsqf4rn2ub.jpg (http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/clivegpugh/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsqf4rn2ub.jpg.html)

http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q710/clivegpugh/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvrbt0onl.jpg (http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/clivegpugh/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvrbt0onl.jpg.html)
http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q710/clivegpugh/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps0levihxp.jpg (http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/clivegpugh/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps0levihxp.jpg.html)
The cd changer responded to a couple of gentle technical adjustments and is working again at moment
The AC check returned no faults so I guess it's either air or the matrix!
Cheers
Clive

[Greeners]

Definitely a fuel burning heater fitted, and some sort of tuning box

[Clive pugh]

Any idea on the hose and pipe? What about control for fuel burning heater?

On board mpg currently showing 40.3 mpg which is slightly better than it was...not sure how much reliance to place on these figures but is this similar to others or should it be more?

[klarzy]

the pipe with a screw in it is the vacuum control for the EGR valve which I assume has been bypassed... no worries there just tie it safely out of the way...


the pic is fill of FBH... its the rectangular lump with the pipes running into and over the top... the pipe with the foam inside is the air inlet and the foam is a course filter

[klarzy]

the box on the side may be a tuning box as already suggested or possibly part of a timer setup for the FBH

[Greeners]

The pipe with the foam in, is the air intake for the FBH, the other bit of pipe with the screw in is probably the fuel line to the FBH

As the 2 plus on the FBH look unmolested, I'm guessing the black box with the convoluted covering is some form of tuning box. Check the MAF to see if there is an extra connector there

[Greeners]

the pipe with a screw in it is the vacuum control for the EGR valve which I assume has been bypassed... no worries there just tie it safely out of the way...




Yep I'd concur with that one....:bowdown:

[Clive pugh]

So why would you bypass the egr valve?

[klarzy]

So why would you bypass the egr valve?

the EGR fills with sooty oil over time and can restrict air flow to the intake, this reduces boost power and performance.

Removing it allows full flow and as no exhaust gasses including soot can get into the intake...

[Clive pugh]

Ok, thanks for that but with regards to the fbh where should the control be for it?

[klarzy]

Ok, thanks for that but with regards to the fbh where should the control be for it?

it is mostly automatic, working on a temp sensor which starts it I believe at _5 when you start the engine.

You can also use it as a parking heater where it comes on for 15 - 30 mins either on a timer or a remote fob, the timer is usually housed in the centre arm rest cubby

[Clive pugh]

Hmmmm well I appear to have neither of these!��

[klarzy]

Hmmmm well I appear to have neither of these!��

the temp sensor is near the bottom of the front grill...

you could look here to do the recommended tests and see if the unit is working, just DO NOT pull the plugs with the key in the ignition as this can damage the PCB in the FBH...

http://www.klarzy-dials.com/fuel-burning-heaters.html

[Clive pugh]

As the temperatures this morning were 1 degree outside and car was cold I started up and tried to see, hear or feel whether the fbh was working... I couldn't discern anything.... Really don't fancy messing with it to be honest but will ask the guys at garage or I think there's a Rover place on way to St Albans

[SD1too]

... I think there's a Rover place on way to St Albans
I don't know this business Clive, but you might like to search for Gatekeeper's bad experience of a so-called Rover specialist in the St. Albans area.

If I were you I would definitely look at this yourself with the help of fellow diesel owners from this club. They're very likely to know more than garages. The FBH might be a mysterious black box to you at the moment, but I think you'll be surprised once you start learning a bit more about it, and it's fundamentally just a water heater! :D

Simon

[Clive pugh]

Hi again, sorry haven't been back, just busy with work
Pleased to report heating seems fine now with new thermostat in situ however car is back in garage for master clutch cylinder change and front wheel bearing replacement!!!
Car became almost undriveable as gear selection got harder and harder ! A asked them to check wheel bearing as mot said it was on limit... They said completely shot would be more like it!! Have not had chance to look at FBH which does not appear to be working

[Clive pugh]

Well master cylinder changed, garage said it looked like the slave cylinder had also been changed but not the friction plate. The near side front wheel bearing was totally shot as was the arm and ballpoint. One of the front tyres was worn through to casing so had to change both front tyres.... Bill £512.00 also had to have front wheels tracked. Hey ho better safe than sorry!!

[Clive pugh]

Morning just a little update ...following the clutch issues the same problem soon returned with stiff almost impossible gear changes.... At one point trying to change down at roundabout gear knob came off in my hand!!!!�� so back to garage tried again with bleeding clutch to improve... About three days and back at day one!! So garage took in for the day and so far seem to have fixed it... Took 15 goes at bleeding leaving time between each bleed so took all day but seems to have fixed it. Got a moaning back wheel bearing now .... Other than that seems to be going ok and onboard fuel consumption says 49.8 mpg don't know if good or not but certainly improved since stat change....so overall happy bunny����

[Clive pugh]

Further update on clutch issues for anyone interested! Following the lat bleeding episode the clutch system lasted a little longer, until last Thursday in fact when the old issues returned . Interestingly though it seems the longer the journey the worse the issue until at end of long journey I would be pumping the clutch and or double and even triple de clutching!!! Back to my garage who have now dropped the gearbox and removed clutch. New clutch and flywheel required.... Apparent burn marks on flywheel need to get more info on this also read wheel bearing change!! Cost £800 the flywheel is £300 plus!! About 230 for clutch 70 for wheel bearing and rest labour .....this is becoming a pricey buy!! Any comments anyone?