One for the electrical experts.

[FROGGY]

A project; I want to fit bi-xenon projectors to replace the existing stock ones.:eek:
I need to find power for the solenoid when main beams are called for.
The obvious place is the +ve feed to the H9 main beam bulb.
The solenoid is 25ohms, so around 1/2A. The H9 draws about 5A, so the extra 1/2A shouldn't be a problem?
But, will the canbus see something wrong?

Mick

[Avulon]

OK, I'll have a go - but don't blame me if I'm wrong. As I understand it: with a bi-xenon the main beam lamp stays permanently lit, but is covered by a shutter when only dipped beam is required. The shutter is opened (presumably by the solenoid you mention) when high beam is called for. So yes powering the shutter solenoid from the high beam feed would be absolutely correct.

The question is where are you going to source the power feed to the main beam lamps/ballast? Given that these will need to switch on at the same time as the dipped beam you can't use the normal high beam power feed as this will switch off every time you dip the lights. You could possibly connect them in parallel with the feeds to the dipped beams - provided that the wiring and dipped beam lighting relay will take the current. I presume that the mainbeam headlamps will have their own ballast?

The relay and wiring for the dipped lights will be the same as in the version with halogen headlamps. Given that those are 55w a side what is the total wattage requirement per side for the xenons (high + low beam)? Don't forget that this will be higher than just the beam wattage - The ballasts won't be 100% efficient!

Given that I've seen figures like 35w bandied about for xenon 'burners' assuming both high and low beam same value that makes 70w, If it were me I'd make sure that each side was safe up to 100w (just over 8A a side). The relay rating should be easy to determine from the relay itself. The wiring can be checked against a wire gauge table (search online) check the current wiring (thickness and no of strands) and see what it's rated for. Handy link: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html

[FROGGY]

Thanks for the input.
I have answered some of your points in red.

OK, I'll have a go - but don't blame me if I'm wrong. As I understand it: with a bi-xenon the main beam lamp stays permanently lit, but is covered by a shutter when only dipped beam is required. The shutter is opened (presumably by the solenoid you mention) when high beam is called for. So yes powering the shutter solenoid from the high beam feed would be absolutely correct. - Yes, that's how it works.
The question is where are you going to source the power feed to the main beam lamps/ballast? - from the existing xenon setup. I am changing the existing xenon projector (which is low beam only) for one with switchable high beam, but as it's all done from a single burner the power requirements for that part remain the same. All I need is a power feed for the solenoid, and the obvious place is the +ve feed to the H9 main beam bulb.



Given that I've seen figures like 35w bandied about for xenon 'burners' assuming both high and low beam same value that makes 70w, - the xenons only have the one 35W burner which is always on, it's the solenoid that changes the beam pattern by moving a shield up or down.If it were me I'd make sure that each side was safe up to 100w (just over 8A a side). The relay rating should be easy to determine from the relay itself. The wiring can be checked against a wire gauge table (search online) check the current wiring (thickness and no of strands) and see what it's rated for. Handy link: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html

[Ps3000]

Unfortunately I don't know the answers - but I'd love to hear about the outcome.

I suspect but have absolutely no concrete basis for, that you will be fine to power the solenoids from the main beam feed, and I further suspect that canbus doesn't monitor high beam - maybe you could test that by disconnecting a main beam lamp to see if it triggers a warning? As to whether a extra 0.5 amps would trigger a warning - dunno that either, guess the answer would be to try but I suspect it's not that sensitive.

[FROGGY]

Unfortunately I don't know the answers - but I'd love to hear about the outcome.

I suspect but have absolutely no concrete basis for, that you will be fine to power the solenoids from the main beam feed, and I further suspect that canbus doesn't monitor high beam - maybe you could test that by disconnecting a main beam lamp to see if it triggers a warning? As to whether a extra 0.5 amps would trigger a warning - dunno that either, guess the answer would be to try but I suspect it's not that sensitive.

Well I have to do it, so it will be a matter of suck it and see :eek:
As long as there's no smoke and it works I'll be happy.

Mick

[Avulon]

If it's only one 35w burner then just power that from the dipped beam supply, use the high beam feed to power the solenoid as you've suggested, should be absolutely fine. :)




very small disclaimer: all wiring changes at your own risk.

[Ps3000]

If it's only one 35w burner then just power that from the dipped beam supply, use the high beam feed to power the solenoid as you've suggested, should be absolutely fine. :)




very small disclaimer: all wiring changes at your own risk.

If I understand correctly, he's not changing the burners at all - or at least doing a like for like swap, the only difference is the electro-magnetic shutter to deflect the beam when dipped.

Something along these lines -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Bosch-AL-D3S-HID-Bixenon-Projector-Retrofit-Parts-OEM-Ballasts-Bulbs-/301483688146

[FROGGY]

That's correct. Throw the old projectors away and replace with the new bi xenon projectors.
The only problem is finding a pair that have the same mounting points. A couple from the Mercedes range fit with only one brass rivet to drill out.

Wired the new projectors in today, and tomorrow it's polish the lenses time (just hope the end product is worth the hassle.

So watch this space..............

[Avulon]

Watching :wantpics:


yep need pics :)

[FROGGY]

If it all works out will put pics up, but no point if it doesn't.....!

Mick

[FROGGY]

Couple of pics for anyone who is confused............;)


This is what is normally fitted and is coming out:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa86/uncle_011/OLD.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/uncle_011/media/OLD.jpg.html)

A projector with a fixed shield.
And this is what is going in:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa86/uncle_011/NEW.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/uncle_011/media/NEW.jpg.html)

A projector with solenoid to move the shield up, thus allowing the projector to be used for main beams as well.

[FROGGY]

And for those who haven't polished their lights, a couple of pics as that progressed.
If you are scared to attempt this, don't be. There's nothing to it.

First stage, using dry 600 paper, is to ensure that the whole of the lens looks frosted, with no shiny pieces left...............

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa86/uncle_011/600.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/uncle_011/media/600.jpg.html)

Next stage is with dry 800 paper. The pic shows the lens with one half still at the 600 stage, the other after 800.........

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa86/uncle_011/600800.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/uncle_011/media/600800.jpg.html)

Finish the rest with 800..........

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa86/uncle_011/800800.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/uncle_011/media/800800.jpg.html)

Now down to 1200. Start dry, then wet..............

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa86/uncle_011/800800.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/uncle_011/media/800800.jpg.html)

Final stage is to use a fine rubbing compound on a rotary pad...........

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa86/uncle_011/COMPOUNDED.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/uncle_011/media/COMPOUNDED.jpg.html)


Good as new.

Mick

[FROGGY]

So, the good news is that it works.
There's a hell of a lot of light on full beams now.
Need to adjust them correctly, but I have the flu, it's ruddy cold out, so it will have to wait.

Mick

[rich17865]

Cracking bit of work, Is it possible to fit standard halogen bulbs to these lamp units, or are they just for xenon burners?